twowheelsonly Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 Hello, I am planing on emoving both wheels so new tires can be installed. when the bike is on the center sand the rear wheel just clears the pavement. I assume that a small jsck is required to support the front so the wheel can be removed. where is the correct poing to lift the front wheel to clear the pavement, also what is the correct torgue specs for the re-assembly? Thanks for your help!~ Stewart Link to comment
Mike T Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 If you do not have a motorcycle jack, then you can use a small floor jack with a 2x4 under the engine in front of the center stand. The bike will be a bit unstable so you have to be careful while working on it. I'll have to go look at my manual for the correct torque on the lugs if someone doesn't post the answer. I know you put the lugs back dry (no oil or grease). Link to comment
Boffin Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 I use two small scissor-type car jacks. One under the paralever pivot at the back and one under the sump at the front. I use a piece of wood at the front to spread the load. I do not have the torque values to hand but from memory the rear wheel bolts are torqued to 77 foot-pounds, clean and dry threads. Andy Link to comment
Danny caddyshack Noonan Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 A 1/2" thick, give or take depending on your strength, board under the center stand feet makes that job a lot easier. At least on mine. I find getting that touch extra clearance just makes getting the tires out a bit easier. Used to just set my K100 rear disc on a small plastic tool box until I found out that a right side up milk crate worked better...I think this geometry is slightly different though and haven't tried it on the R. Link to comment
flat_twin Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 Please be sure to strap the center stand forward so it cannot retract. =:^0 Link to comment
twowheelsonly Posted November 24, 2009 Author Share Posted November 24, 2009 Thanks everybody for the input, Stewart Link to comment
tomk99r11 Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 I sometimes position the bike directly under the ends my garage door track and then run some straps form each end of the bike up over the track with the bike on the centerstand, then remove the wheels. The majority of the weight is on the center stand so all the strap is doing is keeping the weight balanced. I do strap the centerstand forward so it can't retract. The straps obviously have multiple uses and I don't have to store any sort of jack. Link to comment
NonComp Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 I sometimes position the bike directly under the ends my garage door track and then run some straps form each end of the bike up over the track with the bike on the centerstand, then remove the wheels. The majority of the weight is on the center stand so all the strap is doing is keeping the weight balanced. I do strap the centerstand forward so it can't retract. The straps obviously have multiple uses and I don't have to store any sort of jack. +1 I put some hooks in the ceiling of the garage for this purpose. Link to comment
MontanaMark Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 As far as torque, according to my manual (99 RT), the wheel studs should be torqued initially to 50 nm, then a second time to a final torque of 105 nm. I've had both wheels off for the same reason as you, and just used a floor jack with a 2x4 across the sump. From the manual: Tightening torque: Screw in wheel studs handtight, then tighten them in a crosswise pattern Initial tightening ............................................ 50 Nm Final tightening........................................... 105 Nm Link to comment
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