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Rekey trunk case


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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 years later...

This is the only post the search engine could locate for "rekey". The link no longer functions. I need to rekey the trunk of a R1200RT to a K1300GT. Any help would be most appreciated.

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I would like the PM as well. I think there are new side cases in my future...


Me too please! I have used the procedure a couple of times and have it booked marked, but I don't think I ever printed it out.






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Some time back, I made a copy of the web page and saved it on my computer. I emailed a copy to Lemans, but don't know if it worked. Anyone who wants a copy can PM me with their email address, and I'll give it a try.


I rekeyed my top case twice to match the keys on my two RTs.

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  • 3 weeks later...


I just got through removing the tumbler on a case I have. I've got the newer type of case with the slotted lock cover. I tried using the paper clip attached to a screwdriver as suggested at this link but after several attempts I gave up. I ended up taking a section of coat hanger and bent into an L shape. I had to file the end of the wire down to make the diameter smaller to fit into the release hole. Once I got the diameter down to the right size, releasing the tumbler was easy.

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Sorry the website was down, unknown to me the site was being moved to another server, things didn't go well :-(


Seems to be back ok for now :-)

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  • 4 months later...

Just finished rekeying my top case using the "ebbo" demo. Those are great instructions!


Thought I'd offer an update to this thread with my comments/lesson's learned:

  • My situation: Lost the key that came with the second-hand purchased top box :dopeslap:, but fortunately, the top case was open and the lock was in the "locked" position. The case was locked onto the bike, however. Ebbo mentioned that the lock could be removed with any alternate key if the lock was in the "LOCK" position, and that worked out for me. I put my bike key in the slot, and removed the lock by putting a paper clip into the release hole.
  • Access hole: One of the most unexpectedly frustrating parts of the process was simply removing the plastic bung covering the access hole. The cover did not easily turn, boogering up the slot some. Then when I did get it to turn, regardless of position, it wouldn't lift out. Finally, I reviewed the documentation and positioned the bung exactly as it appeared (i.e. where the notches should match up), and used a razor blade to pick up the cover. Even when the bung cover was in the correct position, I had to do quite a bit of prying to lift it free. Sometimes the most minor things are the most annoying ...
  • Removing inner box liner: Visibility inside the access hole was difficult. I just about wired up a flashlight bulb to drop down there, but then thought "what the heck, I'll just take the interior panel out and work at the lock release when I see it clearly". I removed all the torx screws out of the interior, releasing the cover hinges in the process, then attempted to lift the interior liner free. I pried and pulled and attempted to lift up the liner but it appeared locked in tight. I didn't want to risk breaking something by forcing it out, so I abandoned that effort. However, with the screws out, I could work a large screwdriver into the side between the liner and bottom case, allowing me additional access (and better lighting) to the lock area.
  • Landmark to locate release hole: It's easy to get "lost" looking from on top down through the access hole, and spend "forever" clawing around with the paperclip trying to locate the lock release hole, since you're working mostly in the blind. After failing to line up the hole with a paper clip or a dental pick I keep for shop work, I sat down and studied ebbo's two photo's carefully. I compared the photo's with what I could see through the access hole (which wasn't very much). I focused on the "notch" reference point (see the base of the red arrow), at the point where the metal slot is "cut away" from a rectangular shape to more of a pointed shape. I tucked the paper clip wire just under and inside that "L" shaped notch, wiggled and pushed, and pulled on the chrome (or shiny aluminum) lock face using my fingernails. No drama, it came right out, but it was essential to line up the wire using that notch as a reference point.
  • "Now I've done it, broken!" Once out, I observed three of the lock wafers that were raised or recessed. I pulled those three wafers from the lock, and then experimented with different wafers in different positions. I was willing to leave one or two wafers out (how much security is really required on a lock for a plastic box anyway?), but was pleasantly surprised when I found all wafers lining up. Shocked, is more accurate. I was sure I'd screwed up something. Then I was certain I had "broken" it, when I attempted to place the lock back in it's hole in the box, turned it 90 degrees a couple of times, and suddenly, the lock was in place and turning freely. I thought "oh..boy, now I've done it. Now it's in the unlock position and I'll have to drill this puppy out ..". I was done, and didn't even realize it! :rofl:




Again, this was a pretty easy procedure, though I added an hour of work messing with the inner panel (which I never was able to remove). Buttoned it all back up, and it works like new.


This could definitely be done in 15 minutes, if a guy knew what he was doing.

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