Intermittent engine shut off

[DonW]

Hello all- I know this has been covered before, but my search capabilities are below average.

 

Bike- '04 R1150 RT-P, 108K miles, runs great except...

 

1) on the centerstand, engine running (just started, haven't tried when hot), if I turn the handlebars midway between center and full lock right there is a tiny spot that just shuts off the bike- as though the key were turned to off. A fraction either way, and the bike comes back to life.

 

2) For the last 2 weeks, while riding (usually straight ahead), the bike acts just as above and "switches off" for about 1/10th of a second. Happens somewhat randomly, seems like more during warm up and when pulling away from a stop. Usually the engine keeps running, the ABS recycles, and away I go. I assumed I have a hall sensor going bad until I discovered the symptom listed as 1) above.

 

I'm guessing I've got some bad wiring and am hoping for the expertise here to get me pointed in the right direction.

 

The good news is I'm riding my '83 R80ST until I figure this out, and it is a HOOT!!

 

Thanks,

 

Don

[Ken H.]

Very common to have broken wire in the bundle going to the ignition switch. The orginal wire ties were too tight causing tension on the bundle.

 

Cut the ties, peel back the taping, and start probing around for the broken one, it should be fairly obvious. Splice a bit of new wire back in, tape it back up, don't wire tie the bundle back in place and you'll be good to go!

[Boffin]

What Ken says - to help track it down, the broken wire is almost certainly under the first cable tie down from the ignition switch. My money is on the green wire...

 

One further point. I have sometimes found you need to stretch the wires a little to see the break.

 

Andy

[NonComp]

Ditto me. Haven't gotten around to looking for the break yet, but my 1100 is now parked for the season. Sadly, my wife didn't get her last ride.

[DonW]

You guys are terrific! pulled off the casing around the wire, and the red wire was absolutly cut in half. Amazed this problem was only intermittant.

 

Now, suggestions on the best way to splice that little bugger in a very confined space. Solder? (I'm a crappy solderer). Straight compression connection? All help appreciated!

 

Don

[T__]

Don, probably the best way is to install a new short section of proper gauge wire using (2) splice clips & heat shrink over the repair.. For that you need both a PROPER crimper & soldering ability..

 

 

If you don’t want to or can’t properly crimp in the splice clips then solder them you can probably get by with a butt crimp connector made to repair ABS brake sensor wiring (the ABS wires are usually not solderable so need a special waterproof type of crimp connector).. Those heat shrink enclosed ABS butt connectors are usually available from your local auto parts store & if not there from an auto dealer parts counter.. Even then you need to use a GOOD crimper to properly crimp the connector to the wires..

 

 

 

 

Twisty

 

[DonW]

Thanks Twisty. I've never seen a splice like that- where can I get some? The ones I have are longer "butt" connectors. Also, my crimper is a cheapo old Grand Auto one- where to get really good one?

 

Thanks,

 

Don

[T__]

Don, you should be able to buy them from an electronics supply type place (maybe even Radio Shack).. Or possibly from a local TV repair place..

 

Or, you can make your own by cutting the top off of a standard Bosch or Delphi type wire terminal..

 

The thing is for those crimp type splice clips to work as intended you really need a PROPER crimper that folds the ends in & crimps it to the proper size & squish..

 

Twisty

 

 

 

[David R]

Channel lock makes a great crimper. Klein (form your electrical supply house) makes one identical. About $25 you will have it the rest of your life.

 

David

[NonComp]

Drat! My red wire is broken off right where it enters the ignition switch. Is that a connector on the bottom of the ignition switch? Is it removable?

[NonComp]

I think I'm in real trouble here. Looks like I will have to disasemble half the front end of the bike, remove the upper fork bridge, drill out the security screws and replace the entire ignition switch. Or replace the fork bridge with the ignition switch.

 

And I was thinking this was going to be a 15 minute job. Think I'll go ride my Honda for a while...

 

Edit: Oh, man, I don't believe this. I've got one broken red wire where it exits the ignition switch, a second almost broken purple wire at the same location (which I suspect may not be used). Then I noticed the sheathing is cracked another bundle that is below the headlight. When I pulled the plastic back I can immediately see a green wire with black stripe that is completely broken. Don't even know what that one is for, but its not a new break.

 

I've opened a bloody can of worms. I'm going to post some pictures and have a beer (not necessarily in that order).

[NonComp]

Well, here's the picture. You can see the broken red wire at the connector on the ignition switch. Also , the almost broken purple wire. And the bonus green-black wire sticking out of the bundle below.

 

Any thoughts on removing the connector from the ignition switch?

 

[DonW]

Geez, I feel lucky. My red wire was cleanly broken, and right at the tie-wrap. I was able to cludge a crimp and solder it tight. All wrapped up and the bike doesn't stall now. Thanks for the advice and good luck to you GlenT.

 

Don

[GerryW]

Hi GlenT,

Thought I would submit my first post on the forum as I might be able to help on this.

I had broken wires on my ignition harness on my 1150RS, although my symtom was different, no front side light or tail light.

The insulation had become quite hard and brittle, so I replaced the short ignition harness (got it from Motorworks, UK).

The switch section of the harness is held into the bottom of the lock by a grub screw on the right of the lock body (this is covered in red paint).

Loosen the top yoke pinch bolt on the right fork leg and it will slide down to give more access. Scratch off the red paint and remove the grub screw with a small flat blade screwdriver (it's very small, don't drop it!). The harness will pull out of the lock body.

Hope this helps. Gerry

[NonComp]

Ah, thank you Gerry, and welcome to the forum. That's what I was hoping for. I'll give that a try. The insulation seems quite brittle on mine too. In this case, the wires rubbed on the connector's sleeve, wore throught the insulation, and then they appear to have corroded.