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Oh no...


hexairheadbeemerguy

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I have the same break in the same place on my R1200GS, except no missing pieces. Estimate for repair (replace case) is $6000 to $8000.

 

I am going to try having it welded. I will post updates. Let me know yours turns out.

 

Also see - http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=32403

 

Marty

 

Marty, your weld repair might even be more difficult than hexairheadbeemerguy.. With the case just cracked it will more difficult to get the oil out of alloy pores & clean in & behind the cracks.. It will definitely take more pre-heating & that can effect the sealer integrity at the case joint.. It will also take an aluminum burr on a die-grinder to V out the weld joint (do not use any form or type of resin impregnated grinding disk to prep those cracks as that will leave a residue & weld contamination)..

 

If you pick a local welder to make the repair make sure he has a good working history in repairing alloy that has been exposed to oil..

 

Twisty

 

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hexairheadbeemerguy

Was informed by the former general manager of the local dealership BMW will not sell just one half of the case, it must be both. Have to confirm this of course. He advised me to go with the epoxy repair based on years of successful results. His big welding concern is heat warping the cases. Perhaps I will just put my '83RT (has an oil pan) back on the road which is beginning to sound much less like banging my head against a wall.

Keep the suggestions & questions coming in the meantime tho.

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hexairheadbeemerguy, yes, it’s pretty well like that on most split case engines.. Seeing as the bearing bores are split by the case halfs they are machined as one unit.. Using just one case half is usually possible but would take a bearing bore re-line bore & other machining..

 

I’m done with the case repair side of things as you have enough info in the threads above to make an informed decision.. I know how I would repair it so now you need to decide how YOU want to repair it..

 

 

Twisty

 

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If you do decide to go with epoxy one idea for added security would be to first epoxy the piece you have back in place and then, once secure, add a few layers of metal screen coated with epoxy over the area, extending maybe another 1/2". If done properly the odds of the repair ever failing in a catastrophic way should be close to nil. Again, as with a weld, proper cleanliness, materials, and technique will be required.

 

If you will be paying for it out of pocket I can't really see a case replacement as practical due to cost. If you went that way an entire used engine may cost less. That leaves welding and epoxy. If you have a welder with the appropriate skills and equipment then that could come out OK, but there are also a lot of ways for things to go wrong and if you do then at that point the case may indeed be toast. And of course an epoxy repair has its pros and cons as well, in the end it's what you're comfortable with.

 

Good luck with whatever you choose, please let us know how it all turns out...

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What epoxy would you all recommend for a repair like this?

Well it sounds like most would recommend no epoxy :grin:. But I think JB Weld (standard formula, not Quick Set) ought to do it. I'd also like to hear of any other suggestions though.

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markgoodrich
Was informed by the former general manager of the local dealership BMW will not sell just one half of the case, it must be both. Have to confirm this of course. He advised me to go with the epoxy repair based on years of successful results. His big welding concern is heat warping the cases. Perhaps I will just put my '83RT (has an oil pan) back on the road which is beginning to sound much less like banging my head against a wall.

Keep the suggestions & questions coming in the meantime tho.

 

There have been several (including mine) suggestions that you go the insurance route...what's up with that avenue?

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Poster: markgoodrich

Subject: Re: Oh no...

 

Originally Posted By: hexairheadbeemerguy

Was informed by the former general manager of the local dealership BMW will not sell just one half of the case, it must be both. Have to confirm this of course. He advised me to go with the epoxy repair based on years of successful results. His big welding concern is heat warping the cases. Perhaps I will just put my '83RT (has an oil pan) back on the road which is beginning to sound much less like banging my head against a wall.

Keep the suggestions & questions coming in the meantime tho.

 

 

There have been several (including mine) suggestions that you go the insurance route...what's up with that avenue?

 

+1

 

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I'm suprised it hasn't been suggested to just roll the think off a cliff and claim it stolen? :)

 

Maybe it somehow finds it's way parked behind a car in your driveway and you "accidentally" back out quickly and run it over. :)

 

 

I'm of course only joking... doing the above intentionally would be immoral.

 

 

 

This sounds lie ka major repair any way you cut it. I'd belooking at making an insurance claim. I don't see how you striking a parking block is any different that a soccer mom talking on a cell phone and backing into a tree or a parked car.

 

Aren't ALL accidents the result of someone making a mistake or doing something careless or stupid???

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clip~

Aren't ALL accidents the result of someone making a mistake or doing something careless or stupid???

 

motoguy128, not ALL,, sometimes God has a hand in it-- say like a meteor falling from the sky or a tree limb falling on you while riding (I had that happen to me years ago,, the tree limb not the meteor)..

 

Twisty

 

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I have used JB weld with great success. However the last time I used it, it failed. The problem was it did not set up consistently. I concluded that oil seeping in some locations contaminated the JB Weld. I would recommend doing an initial bead of 5 min epoxy to seal the cracks. Then clean well before applying JB Weld. Also, it has been my observation that it should be left to cure for 24 hours atleast, reguardless if it is 5 min hardening. JB Weld seems to continue to harden for days!

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IF (big if) going the epoxy route, check with the Devcon line of products.

 

http://www.devcon.com/

 

I have used the Devcon epoxy to repair small engines in the past, but they offer so many choices. One may want to contact them for the best choice of product for the application and how to clean and prep.

 

Cheers

Steve

 

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The problem was it did not set up consistently. I concluded that oil seeping in some locations contaminated the JB Weld.

Quite possibly the problem. All surfaces must be absolutely oil-free for a proper bond with JB Weld.

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A couple of years ago I submited to this forum my concern about the lack of alignment of the Wunderlich bars' 3 bolt holes with the recesses in the crank case. Nothing I tried worked, except for stressing the bars with a 4 foot "cheater". "Not a good idea" I thought at the time. Concievably, the pre-stressed bars could have caused a fracture in the crank case. The initial post here convinces me that the Wunderlich bars are an expensive and unnecessary accessory.

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Looking at my Wunderlich bars and the way they attach, I do not see how a typical low-speed drop or even a sliding crash would stress those 2 rear mounting points enough to pop them off. When the bike falls over, it appears the brunt of the impact would be borne by the upper mounting points (sure hope THEY hold!), not the lower ones. If anyone is aware of this same scenario that was caused by a "drop", not by rolling over/into a fixed object, please let us hear about it! :lurk:

 

 

Edit: shazbot, I ran into the same fitting issues myself on *both* RT's I own. The simple solution was to dremel a couple of holes so it mounted up with no stress. I also wouldn't recommend forcing the fit using a "cheater bar" as you mentioned.

 

 

Edit #2: By the way....does anyone know exactly WHAT the purpose is of those mounting points on the R12 motor? I suspect it may be for some OEM type crash or skid plates and if so, then BMW is asserting they are suitable for that purpose...... :lurk:

 

 

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A couple of years ago I submited to this forum my concern about the lack of alignment of the Wunderlich bars' 3 bolt holes with the recesses in the crank case. Nothing I tried worked, except for stressing the bars with a 4 foot "cheater". "Not a good idea" I thought at the time. Concievably, the pre-stressed bars could have caused a fracture in the crank case. The initial post here convinces me that the Wunderlich bars are an expensive and unnecessary accessory.

 

I recently purchased and installed a set on my '09, and there was absolutely no mis-alignment/stressing involved. The only problem I encountered was at the lower front mounts, where the ends of the bar's center mounting flanges were a bit too square to fit into the round/cylindrical space milled around the case's lower bolt holes. A couple quick hits with the grinder to take off the tips of the flange corners, and the bottom bar slid right into place.

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Z-Technik has come up with a good looking set of crash bars. However I don't know if they mount the same way as the Wunderlich. I would not want to go through the same experience that the orginal poster has gone through. Having saved a valve cover worth $180 has no comparison to having to replace the cases at $6 grand. Anyone know anything on this subject?

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  • 4 weeks later...
Dave_zoom_zoom
God dropped a tree limb on you while riding? Jeez, nice guy...

 

Good one smiller! :rofl:

 

I'm sure most of us deserve a dropped tree limb , or more.

(I'm sure I do - but not looking forward to one)

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hexairheadbeemerguy

I am more than just a bit happy to report my bike is repaired. Thanks to all who posted with options, recommendations etc. The epoxy route did not work as I was unable to remove all the crankcase oil nor was the shop; they did know a machinist/welder who repairs m/cycle, snowmobile racing engine etc. He needed two weeks to find time for this small job, charged me $175- and no leaks. The bars are in the corner of the garage now and will stay there. I put them on to prevent damage to a valve and/or saddle bag cover; of course I never dropped it again. Not my wish to start a big debate either re pros/cons of bars, I won't use such a set up again but will consider valve cover protection.

The damage to my bike was my fault and am glad it wasn't worse. The bars may have made it worse, may have saved further grief; tough to say. As someone else posted, this was an unintended consequnce of trying to prevent a different problem. Motorcycling has its hazards, that is likely something we can agree on.

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I'm sure you are glad to have this incident behind you. It sounds like it worked out as well as it could have, and didn't even cost that much.

 

Jay

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I´ve wondered many times, why I would/should install crash bars on a R bike (cylinders themselves cover your legs).

I wont get any discount on my insurance before nor after possible accident. So to me it sounds like waste of money, or even potential sponsoring to insurance company.

 

On a dirt bike I would find a benefit on those bars to secure your ability to continue riding after a flip.

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