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Easy FD oil change on 09 RT


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My new 2009 RT has the FD drain plug on the bottom. Great for draining oil. To replace the oil you still have to remove rear tire, etc.

 

I been thinking about a 3/8" OD plastic tube connected to a plastic water bottle. Squeeze the bottle to force new oil into the FD then AT THE SPEED OF LIGHT, remove the plastic hose, quickly shove the drain plug back in and screw it tight before any oil, or maybe just a little, comes out.

 

Think it would work??? sure would be easier than removing the rear tire, etc, etc...

 

I am thinking about trying it.

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Given the discussion in the transmission oil thread going on about the new requirements for FD oil changes, it would seem those of us with older models are now at an advantage.

 

According to information in the other thread the new 180 ml volume means we can now refill the FD via the drain hole (older models) which is normally at the 9 o'clock position. The newer FD's have a drain plug at 6 but will require the speed sensor to be removed for refilling.

 

Having changed my oil before I can say, the biggest pain for me was getting the right amound of oil through the sensor hole without dribbling excess all over brake components. Dropping the FD for draining, on the other hand, is a no brainer.

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Well, it certainly keeps life interesting. Maybe I'll just flip the bike upside down and then fill it. Just kidding.....

 

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Tom, OR, do as I do & change the final drive fluid at rear tire replacement time.. The tire/wheel is already removed..

 

I do believe there is enough room around the wheel to modify the rear top fill plug by adding a smaller drilling to that plug (or a different plug) then adding a small brass screw to allow possible re-filling by just removing that screw with a screwdriver..

 

Problem with trying to fill through the drain hole is the very small amount of gear oil used doesn’t leave much wiggle room if ANY gets out during the lightning fast drain plug install.. Plus the problem in filling the unit with a tight fitting hose or rubber stopper.. Remember those new final drives are NOT VENTED to atmosphere so will start to pressurize the minute you start forcing oil into the bottom.. Not only will it be difficult to fill,, it will then be pressurized when done if you even managed to get all the oil into it..

 

I had a similar predicament years back on a piece of equipment that had a small gear box & needed frequent oil changes.. The bottom drain plug was easily accessible but the fill hole was behind the unit & could only be accessed with about 1 hours work.. I simply drilled the drain plug then added a large grease Zerk fitting (those have check balls in them).. That allowed re-filling the gear box through the Zerk fitting with a home made pressurized container with a grease gun hose & nozzle.. Not much of an option on the BMW as that drain plug is pretty low & the possibility of knocking the Zerk off is fairly high..

 

Twisty

 

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Hey Twisty,

 

Good points. Actually your suggestion of changing the FD oil when I do rear tire replacement makes a lot of sense.

 

I was wondering if the FD was vented. I think the last thing I want to do is put the oil under pressure. Just what I need to get the seals starting to leak.

 

Actually I was checking it out and not a big deal to remove the rear tire. I come from the HD and Japanese bike world with removing the rear axle. The BMW looks easy.

 

I ordered the BMW service manual on DVD and waiting to get it.

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Tom, the actual rear wheel removal is easy.. You will also have to remove the rear muffler attaching bolt,, then loosen the muffler to pipe clamp,, then simply rotate the muffler outward so the rear wheel will come out & clear the muffler..

 

One worthwhile piece of advice I will furnish to you here is: before doing ANY work on your new BMW that requires wheel removal or pulling or pushing on anything attached to the motorcycle,, use a ratchet strap (or rope) to tie the center stand to the front wheel (or front something ) so the center stand CAN’T collapse on you.. Real easy to knock a late model BMW off the center stand when working on the bike..

 

Twisty

 

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OK on the ratchet straps.

 

I have a bunch of them from the truck.

 

Thats all I need to happen is drop the bike off the center stand!!!

 

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I have an '05 RT, but, as I just got a new FD, I have the newer version with the drain hole on the bottom. I just had new tires mounted, and the rear is still off the bike, but I cannot see how I can add new fluid to the FD through the sensor hole. It appears I would need to remove the carrier for the brake rotor and the rotor to get to the plug or fitting (hard to see) in that sensor hole. Am I missing something?

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You add fluid through the hole that the speed sensor sits in. It pulls right out after removing a screw or 2. You do have to unbolt the brake caliper, but do not have to remove the rotor. I use a 60cc syringe which makes it easy to measure the exact amount of lube that goes in there and then deliver it without spilling any. Apparently with the newer reduced volume requirement you could also add fluid through the drain hole at the back after the drive is bolted back to its horizontal position.

 

Jay

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Thanks, Jay. I just read the old thread with the pictures on how to do this job. I think I had seen that before, but somehow I thought the speed sensor hole was on the top. (It is on my R1200C, but then, it also has a fill hole!) Since I have the '09 FD, I won't have to unbolt and drop the FD to drain it.

 

Where did you get the syringe?

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I have not gotten that far with my new bike yet. I was hoping all you had to do was rotate the rotor to a spot where you could get at the sensor for removal.

 

I will probably do my 600 mi. run-in (break-in) service in a couple weeks and let you know.

 

Still waiting on my new 09 Service CD. I am sure there will be info in it on how to do the change.

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I have an '05 RT, but, as I just got a new FD, I have the newer version with the drain hole on the bottom. I just had new tires mounted, and the rear is still off the bike, but I cannot see how I can add new fluid to the FD through the sensor hole. It appears I would need to remove the carrier for the brake rotor and the rotor to get to the plug or fitting (hard to see) in that sensor hole. Am I missing something?

 

Ray, I’m not sure what the replacement final drive you have looks like but on the late lower-drain-plug factory final drives there is a REAL fill plug on top/side (behind the wheel though) with a screw in pipe plug.. On those you fill through that pipe plug hole not the speed sensor hole.. Look more to front than the speed sensor..

 

1200fnldrv.jpg

 

Twisty

 

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Twisty,

 

Just went down to the garage to check out the fill plug. Hard to tell with my rear tire still on but looks like I may need to remove the rotor (not a big deal) then I can access it. Hopefully will not have to remove the spline collar that the rotor screws into.

 

The fill plug is about on direct alignment with the shaft inside the FD coming from the tranny.

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Twisty,

 

Just went down to the garage to check out the fill plug. Hard to tell with my rear tire still on but looks like I may need to remove the rotor (not a big deal) then I can access it. Hopefully will not have to remove the spline collar that the rotor screws into.

 

The fill plug is about on direct alignment with the shaft inside the FD coming from the tranny.

 

Tom, on my 09 1200RT & a couple of other late model RT’s I have done the brake rotor was not an issue.. There are gaps (cut outs) in the rotor that allow fill plug access.. Try rotating your wheel about 10° in either direction & look again..

 

Twisty

 

 

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OK, found it.

 

If you find the speed sensor at about 12 o'clock then go forward about 2 inches (11 o'clock) there is the fill plug. Looks like it takes an allan wrench. If you rotate the rear tire to just the right spot you can get a small plastic tube or what ever in there to fill.

 

I think you need to remove the rear tire but do NOT need to take off the rotor. If real careful you may be able to remove the plug and fill with out taking off the rear tire!!! Not sure on that till I try it.

 

I think...........

 

Still learning......

 

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OK, found it.

 

If you find the speed sensor at about 12 o'clock then go forward about 2 inches (11 o'clock) there is the fill plug. Looks like it takes an allan wrench. If you rotate the rear tire to just the right spot you can get a small plastic tube or what ever in there to fill.

 

I think you need to remove the rear tire but do NOT need to take off the rotor. If real careful you may be able to remove the plug and fill with out taking off the rear tire!!! Not sure on that till I try it.

 

I think...........

 

Still learning......

 

 

 

 

Tom, go look again.. On the ones I have worked on that plug was a Torx not a true allen drive..

 

Twisty

 

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Twisty,

 

I just took off the rear bags, got another cup of coffee, and checked it out. Much easier to see it now.

 

My eyes are not the best, but I think my fill plug is about a 5 mm hex head. The screws holding the rear seal on are all Torx about T40's I guess.

 

Oh, on mine the Factory put a dab of white paint on it so they can tell if someone breaks the seal on the fill plug.

 

If I had long skinny hands I probably could remove the plug and fill with the rear tire still on but not going to try that.

 

If I follow the black wire down to the speed sensor, then the fill plug is about 2 1/2 inches forward. about the same radius distance from the center of the wheel for the actual speed sensor and the fill plug.

 

After the first change I think I will take your advice and just change the FD oil every time I replace the rear tire.

 

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Tom, 5mm hex,, something new again.. They were Torx..

 

As a rule that white paint (or any paint color) isn’t to see if someone has messed with it but more as an assembly line check or verification.. Maybe torque check,, maybe a fill check,, who knows..

 

Twisty

 

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Ray, I got my syringe at Wally world. It is used for mixing/measuring oil for 2 stroke motors, then added a little bit of clear vinyl tubing.

You are welcome to borrow mine, if you want send me a pm.

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Tom, the actual rear wheel removal is easy.. You will also have to remove the rear muffler attaching bolt,, then loosen the muffler to pipe clamp,, then simply rotate the muffler outward so the rear wheel will come out & clear the muffler..

 

One worthwhile piece of advice I will furnish to you here is: before doing ANY work on your new BMW that requires wheel removal or pulling or pushing on anything attached to the motorcycle,, use a ratchet strap (or rope) to tie the center stand to the front wheel (or front something ) so the center stand CAN’T collapse on you.. Real easy to knock a late model BMW off the center stand when working on the bike..

 

Twisty

That is an excellent tip. Never thought of it. Thanks.
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Talk about brain fade . . first I did not think about just rotating the rotor to find the sensor . . I also looked directly at that 6mm Allen head with the white paint (yeah, 6mm) and it did not occur to me that they had added a proper fill hole to go along with the drain hole!

 

587897068_GhNUV-O.jpg

 

587897082_QACJc-O.jpg

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Ray, I got my syringe at Wally world. It is used for mixing/measuring oil for 2 stroke motors, then added a little bit of clear vinyl tubing.

 

Hi Bernie -- Jeez, seeing your name reminds me I forgot the meeting last Sunday! Anyway, I picked up a "battery filler" at Advance Auto yesterday, and a small funnel, and some 3/8 OD tubing at Home Depot, just to have a couple of options. I just checked, and either way will work now that we have a proper fill hole. The battery filler is kinda like a turkey baster, only different. Come to think of it, I also have a turkey baster somewhere . . useful for siphoning excess brake fluid out of the reservoir.

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Sparkerite999

I had to replace the rear tyre today as it was punctured, I had repaired it previously and got about 4000 miles out of it then it started to leak so I figured that it was time for a new one. I followed the instruction from Jim vonboden website http://www.jimvonbaden.com/R1200_Final_Drive.htmlI

except I used the plastic hose from the hydration packs that walkers use, this one was leaking so I cut the hose pipe off of it. To refill the final drive after I had re greased the splines etc with Moly 60 I pushed the hose in right into the speed sensor hole, I then pulled it back about a 1/2 inch so the oil would not splash back when filling it up I tied it in place as the hose is very flexible I did not want it to move. The hose I used is smaller than the sensor hole. At the other end I connected a small funnel which fitted nicely into the hose. I measured the correct amount 180 mls into a measuring jug and then poured it slowly into the funnel. I had no trouble pouring in and not one drop got spilt on the brake discs.

 

HTH

Ben

 

 

 

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Ray,

 

Stopped by Advanced Auto yesterday and was looking at that battery filler. I think I am going back Monday and pick one up. I am thinking I can just stick the end of it in the FD filler.

 

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Ray,

 

Stopped by Advanced Auto yesterday and was looking at that battery filler. I think I am going back Monday and pick one up. I am thinking I can just stick the end of it in the FD filler.

 

Tom -- the battery filler was not as easy to use as I thought it would be. The tube is not very flexible, so you have to squeeze the bulb quite a bit to force the fluid into the FD housing. I was wasting some, so I switched to a funnel and tubing. Also, the battery filler will not quite hold the total amount of fluid needed. The battery filler will work, just not as well as I expected.

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I measured the correct amount 180 mls into a measuring jug and then poured it slowly into the funnel. I had no trouble pouring in and not one drop got spilt on the brake discs.

 

HTH

Ben

 

Good job, Ben. I wish I could say I didn't spill any. None on the brake rotor, though. An interesting fact -- my FD is a new '09 unit, presumably filled at the factory(?) When I drained the old fluid, I got over 200 ml. So, when I re-filled it, I started with about 200 ml, figuring I would lose some. I probably got about 180-190 in there.

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