Who has used "Bar's Leak Rear Main Seal Repair?"

[tpfeffer]

Unfortunately, I have what appears to be a rear main seal leak on my '83 R100RS. I have oil dripping off the rear edge the oil pan. I replaced the oil pan gasket hoping that was the culprit, but no luck. So, I am considering Bar's Leaks Rear Main Seal Repair engine oil additive. The can says, "Most leaks stop within 100 miles or 2 days of driving. One bottle (32 oz) treats 4 to 6 quarts of oil."

 

I am due for an oil change. I thought I could drain out 16 oz of oil and put that amount of Bar's Leak. Either way, I would only leave it in for a short period and then replace the oil.

 

So, what is the opinion, super cure or snakeoil??

__________________

Thanks

Tom

tpfeffer@gmail.com

[Tony_K]

I have what appears to be a rear main seal leak on my '83 R100RS.

 

If that seal has made it all the way from 1983 you are a WINNER. Use the stuff if you want. It's a cheap "fix" if it does anything at all.

 

Replacing the seal is what should really be done... it's time.

[motoguy128]

I'd be afraid that a product that is designed to plug leaks...might also block small passageways and any oiling ports.. or jsut crate oil sludge in various places.

 

 

I generally thought that stop-leak products was for old cars that are worhtless piles of crap, or for folks that can't afford a proper repair on an old car and you are just trying to get another 6 months out of it before selling it for scrap.

 

You're R100RS with only 25k isn't a pile of crap. It's just old and ready for normal maintenance.

[motoguy128]

Tony... you'r avitar is hilarious! A cat, rather that be caught chooses to leap from 20 feet in the air to a sidewalk below to escape.

 

 

I've heard cats actually instictively do a "flying squirrel" manuever and get flat, low and relaxed to absorb the impact with their body, to avoid fracturing their limbs.

 

Like them or not, they are impressive animals in terms of agility.

[notacop]

You could try to replace it. I know the rear seal on my extra R65 engine fell out from just sitting there. When you get the new one the instructions say to soak it in oil for at least 24 hours before installing. Doing the R/R wasn't difficult. Be sure you don't put the new lip back in the same groove as the old one and it shouldn't leak.

I don't think any snake oil will work to put new life back in the old one.

[David R]

Just my thoughts. You will pay a few bucks for some mystery stuff, pour it in your engine, wait awhile then replace the seal anyhow. Even if it does work, its only temporary.

 

SO save the few bucks, fix the thing and be done with it.

 

Those seal softeners will not only soften the rear main, but every seal in the motor. Do you want that?

 

Not much of a believer is repairs in a can. I am a mechanic, maybe that is why.

 

David

[Skywagon]

We use to use Bars Leak for radiators in the 70's. It worked. I don't know what the long term effects were such as cloging of other things. I'm like the others, better to fix it than put a bandaid in...

[ragtoplvr]

I have used the Gunk versions with mixed success. The product is NOT designed to plug leaks. If a seal or gasket is hard and shrunken, it usually will help. If it is split, no effect.

 

It contains chemicals that will soften and swell seals. It will not block passages. It will swell ALL the gaskets in the engine, even the ones on the oil filter. It has been known to make a spin on filter very tight. Not stuck, just tight. Not an issue on airhead. But I am not an expert on their filter arrangement, so if nothing will be hurt by swelling, go for it. When you change your oil, you need to add a maintenance dose, about 1/4 bottle.

 

Should also help with pushrod tube seals.

 

FWIW there is a little bit of this kind of stuff in all oil, you are simply increasing the quantity. The high mileage oils have more in them.

 

Rod