Tale of two Shocks

[Rotor]

It’s a little long, and a bit of a rant about the upgrade of my shocks. I think you’ll find it interesting to-say-the-least. Alright, here goes.

 

I decided to replace the stock shocks on my 2005 ESA equipped R12RT with 32000 on the springs (bought it new in 06). I call Works and we decide how they needed to be build and still retain the ESA. This is all a very good thing – so far. Three weeks later Tom, from Works, emails and says the shocks are built and for me to send my old ones to him to so the new shocks can be fitted with the ESA. So-far-so-good and now it’s time for me to begin disassembling my bike.

 

I begin work on the bike and successfully remove the rear shock. Not a big deal and it all went rather smoothly except the minor irritation of trying to get the wires unplugged from their sockets. Since I’m replacing both front and rear at the same time, the real fun begins.

 

First I have to figure a way to teeter a BMW R1200RT on a jack, perfectly balanced while I remove the front shock. Can’t tell you how many different ways or how many times I tried. Used floor jack, used floor jack and 2x4, readjusted 2x4 20 different times. Raise, lower, raise, lower, repeat, repeat, repeat…; this isn’t going to work! Decide to use a regular motorcycle / ATV jack. This is better, making progress but still can’t find a balance point under the bike. Then, I tried a large board on top of the jack. I start gently lifting and the board breaks in half. Fortunately, the center stand wasn’t off the ground yet and nothing drastic happened. But, with the board now broke in the middle, each side is resting partially on each side of the jack and the center where it broke is resting on the cross beam of the jack perfectly supporting the bike. It’s like the board is now cradling the engine. All is well and I could lift the bike off the center stand without too much worry. OK, that only took an hour and a half! Now, pull all the right side plastic, pull the glove box (still has radio prep kit wires attached to the bottom of it), try to trace the wires from the front shock to its plug. Where is that wire going? It runs into a bundle on the frame and then gets lost. Decide to cut the wire-tie and holly-crap; the wires fall free and I find the plug right on top of the frame in front of the fuel tank.

 

Now its time to start unbolting the front shock; I gently adjust the level of the jack so the front tire is just touching the ground. Instead of using the allen wrench and box-end wrench on the top of the shock like it’s designed to be done, I get the bright idea to use my impact wrench and just zip that puppy off of there. Works great! Well, at least one thing worked out. Not so fast knucklehead. I reach in to pull out the nut I just took off the top of the shock and it falls. Alright, I can see it and I don’t want to take any chances so I go get a pair of needle-nose pliers. Very gingerly I reach in and grab it; got it. Then, it slips out of the pliers and falls into never-never land. Can’t find that thing to save my life. What I hadn’t realized is that the washer that was under the nut had also fallen. About now I’m pulling my hair out. This little momentary careless act is now causing me to pull all the left side plastic off so I can get a better angle to look for it. Look and look and look, where the he## did that nut go?? I can’t leave them there and go buy another one. Just knowing they were bouncing around down there would drive me out of my mind. Well, might as well start pulling the tank. About then my fourteen year old son had the misfortune of coming out to see what I was doing and I kidnapped him for help looking. I really didn’t want to pull the tank; so instead, I just removed the two rear bolts and raised the back of it. That must have caused the nut to move just enough to be seen from the right front of the bike. Well, now at least I can see it. It had fallen down the front around the neck of the bike and was sitting quietly on a group of wires under the front of the tank. I reached in with a piece of wire, got it hooked and moved it enough for my son to get the pliers on it again. Got it; now for the washer. Finally found that thing sitting on top of the engine behind the alternator and used the same wire to pill it out. The top of the shock is now loose and I start unbolting the bottom. May I suggest, for any of you contemplating this upgrade in the future, use a ½ inch drive ratchet with a long extension; and, eat your damn Cheerios. That thing is in there but good. I have already pulled the alternator belt cover off (they forgot to tell me about the two screws at the very top of that thing), and discovered a ton of corroded crap under it. Note to self: buy wire wheel for rotary tool and some good paint so I can fix it while reassembling. I work the front shock out the bottom and I now have both shocks sitting on the floor. I’m very happy but feel like I had the mud beat out of me from the process. My poor bike is in a million pieces and balanced on a board atop a motorcycle jack.

 

I settle everything down, put all the tools away and set the shocks aside to be boxed and shipped. The bike has been stabilized on the jack, but, I don’t want to leave it raised in the air and off the center-stand. I lower it down so the center-stand is on the floor and the front tire is just touching the floor. The only problem with this is that the jack is not raised enough to reach the first lock on the stand. No problem, I’ll just re-check the knob on the jack to be sure it’s tight and I’ll close up for the night.

 

The next day I box the shocks and take them to UPS headed for California. Thinking the worst has passed I’m feeling a little better about the whole ordeal. It’s just a waiting game now until Works sends my new shocks back.

 

No it isn’t! I walk past my bike and happen to look down when something catches my eye. What is this puddle under my front wheel? As soon as I stuck my finger in it I knew. The jack had leaked down, the forks compressed creating an inordinate amount of pressure in the right leg; the fork oil had been forced past the seal and run down the leg onto the floor. The right fork had lost several ounces of fork oil. Now, I’ve pretty much had it. To fix this I have to pull both forks, replace the seals, re-fill each with correct amount of fork oil and put all that back together too!

 

I don’t mind doing a little bit of wrenching but this is way past a little and very I’m tired!

 

 

 

 

 

[Kathy R]

 

I appreciate learning from folks who are willing to write it all down. If it's any consolation you write well.

Your 14 year old will not forget helping you, and that is priceless.

 

Adversity makes things more memorable. Adversity also makes me cuss and laugh a lot.

 

 

[Bill_Walker]

Wow! What an ordeal. I'm not sure how the 1200 differs from the 1150 in this regard, but when I did mine, I left the bike on the center stand (stand lashed to front wheel so it can't fold) and used the jack under the engine to balance it. Doesn't take much, and the front wheel doesn't touch. Actually, I think mine was off at the time. Removing all the tupperware and moving the tank back is SOP on an 1150.

 

Good luck with the fork seals. I have no wisdom to offer there.

[ArthurKnowles]

Wow! I replaced the shocks on my 96 RT one at a time. First the rear then the front. I did not have this kind of a problem. I will admit that I always remove all of the plastic any time I work on it. Only takes me about 20~30 minutes using a powered screwdriver and 3mm bit. I did pull the gas tank. Just another 15 minutes of work.

 

If you do not have a powered screwdriver (I have a LiIon Skill) you should consdier buying one. Invest in a couple of Zip baggies and label them. That can go a long way to making the process quick and realatively painless. At least on my 96 RT.

 

I'll be picking up an 09 RT next weekend. I'll be pulling the plastic for that down the road to add a fuse box and various electrical farkles. I'll have to pull all of the plastic for that too. And maybe the front fairing as well to add the light kit once I get it back form repair (Trail Tech SCR16 HID lights).

 

But if nothing else I do feel your pain. I lost a couple of bolts in my LT (sold). Even removing all the plastic I couldn't find them. I had to buy replacements and to this day I still wonder where they could have fallen that I couldn't see them.

 

PS: In regard to the front forks, can you use a fork refill kit that uses a hyperdermic syringe to add/remove oil from the top? I have one I bought for my Councours a while back. It was only about $30.

[jbargenquast]

Thanks for sharing. Let us know how the install goes (even if it's "easy") and I would love to hear you post your thoughts on the new shocks. Looking forward to dropping parts when I do this in 20K....

[OoPEZoO]

The few times I've had both of my shocks off at the same time I actually hung my bike from the rafters with tow straps. It worked like a charm. If you use the ratcheting type, it makes adjusting the height a breeze

[Rotor]

The few times I've had both of my shocks off at the same time I actually hung my bike from the rafters with tow straps. It worked like a charm. If you use the ratcheting type, it makes adjusting the height a breeze

 

Thanks for all the positive comments. I’m sure it’ll all work out in the end and Sweet Pea (name for my bike) will be very happy.

 

I couldn’t hang the bike or leave it in a position where the front wheel was suspended because the front brake line was supporting the front end. I had to get the strain off the brake line so I used a strap from the lower shock mount to the handlebars. This I discovered about the time I saw the fork oil.