Just Acquired a 1996 BMW 1100RT.

[John Mitchell]

I am new to this forum. I recently acquired a 1996 1100RT. I has not been started in over a year. I take delivery this week and will begin working on it. Any advice as to what to replace prior to starting the bike. I have been out of the motorcycle scene for over twenty years. I live in the Islands but have plans to ship the bike to the mainland to do some touring.

 

Thank you for your advice.

 

John Mitchell

 

 

 

[Jeepster]

Welcome to the board John,

Any chance your new bike comes with any kind of service history? At the least, I would change all fluids Fuel/Engine/Trans/Final drive and Brake fluid.

Valve adjust/Throtle body sync. And possibly a new alternator belt. Tires may or may not be OK, the rubber tends to harden and crack with age.

Buy a good shop manual and take things one step at a time. the boxer motors are very DIY'er friendly. If you need help try the seach function or just ask.

The folks around here are very knowledgeable and helpful.

Good luck and heres wishing you many happy s/miles.

[OoPEZoO]

Welcome John. Jeepster already covered the basics, and I agree 100% with all he mentioned. How many miles are on it? That would help us steer you in the right direction.

 

Also, make sure to check the intake tube and the air filter. You never know if a critter has made a nest.

 

 

[Selden]

If it's been sitting for a year, the fork seals may have dried out. Pulling the fork tubes is surprisingly easy. Cleaning/polishing the fork tubes and sucking out all the nasty old fork oil, then replacing it with a mix of 25% ATF seal conditioner and 75% fork oil would not take a lot of effort, and may prevent leakage. The only tool that you need that isn't in the toolkit is a 22mm spanner to prevent the fork tube from rotating when you remove the top nut.

[Polo]

All of the above are excellent points. Yes, rubber and seals are very sensitive to lack of use.

 

I would not take any chances with the tires. I would recommend replacing them regardless of how they look. Seen in the big picture it's money well spent. A quick search will bring up many sources. recentlt bought a set at the best price I could find from Ride Direct.

 

I for one, didn't feel entirely confident about the tires my bike had when I bought it. They weren't my brand of choice. After I mounted my own rubber, I felt the confidence of knowing what was between my butt and the road.

[tallman]

Mileage?

I'd get a baseline for future reference.

Do ALL fluids including brakes, esp. in "the islands" as I would imagine you're getting some humidity.

Fuel filter.

Check valves and throttle bodies.

Adjust cables and look for wear.

The '96 cables are different and run to a bowden cables.

Air filter, check/clean, replace.

Tires.

If it has been in one position a long time I'd get new ones.

That is a lot to do, but then you're starting from a known point for future service.

 

BTW, what islands?

[John Mitchell]

Hi Tim, Thanks for the great advise. The tires were new just prior to sitting on the center stand for approx. a year. Will take a real close look at them.

 

I live in Kamuela a small town between Kona and Hilo on the Big Island.

 

Are you familiar?

 

JM

[John Mitchell]

I will get back to you on the mileage.

[John Mitchell]

Thanks for all the great advise. I will give you an update as I begin the maintenance on the bike.

 

 

 

[Matts_12GS]

1996 does not use a bowden box, it is continuous cable for both sides...

[JayW]

The tires were new just prior to sitting on the center stand for approx. a year...

JM

 

Then they should be just fine. Check the date code after the DOT stamp to ensure they were minted within the past 4 years or so.

 

Most importantly, don't neglect your riding skills John, which will no doubt be stale if you have not ridden in over 20 years. Purchase some good safety gear. Consider taking a refresher course of some kind, like one from the MSF. I recommend picking up and reading a copy of Proficient Motorcycling by David Hough, if you don't already have one.

 

Enjoy!

 

Jay

[outpost22]

Mileage would give us an indication of possible HES issues in your future. Your bike is of prime age for that well known issue. (search Oil Head forums)

[John Mitchell]

The milage is 41,000. I am not familiar with HES issues.

 

Is it possible to carefully steam clean the bike with the farings removed?

 

Thank you.

 

JM

[OoPEZoO]

um.......steam.......clean?

 

I mean, I know I should have bought a GS due to my cleaning habits, but I don't even know where to go with this

[outpost22]

The milage is 41,000. I am not familiar with HES issues.

 

Is it possible to carefully steam clean the bike with the farings removed?

 

Thank you.

 

JM

 

 

Hall Effect Sensor. Check the Oilhead section as there are several current threads, or do a search. This HES can and will leave you stranded on the side of the road. Ask me how I know. Proactively changing it now would be advisable.

 

I have heard automotive programs on TV (Two Guys Garage) say to NOT steam clean an engine. I think it has to do with not burning wires, sensors, etc, but I really don't remember. I have a steam cleaner, but just use it on non-mechanical (i.e. BBQ) surfaces.

[John Mitchell]

Getting close to starting the bike after sitting for over a year.

 

Do you guy's think I should put some oil in the cylinders before turning it over?

 

Also I was thinking about using a synthetic brand of oil. If the previous owner has used regular motor oil is it of any concern not getting all of the regular motor oil out of the cooler before switching oils?

 

Thank you,

 

JM

[ArthurKnowles]

John,

 

Just an FYI form another 96 RT owner, changing to synthentic opil is probbaly not a good idea as any small leak will become a bigger one. I'm going through that now when I changed from regular to synthetic. I knew it might happen, but since I had the oil on hand did it anyway. It's not a big leak, but still I'm going to fix it as it is a constant leak.

 

For a motor that has been sitting for a long time, well the seals will be dry and if you have a leak it will become more of one with synthetic oil than regular oil.

[John Mitchell]

I have completed changing all fluids and fuel filter and will be ready to try and start the bike after sitting for over a year on Monday.

 

Would you recommend spraying LPS-2 in each of the cylinders before turning it over.

 

Also I do not have a user manual. Is the starter and the on/off switch on the right handlebar?

 

Thank you,

 

John

[Allen Rowand]

Hi John,

I can't comment on the LPS-2, but you're correct about the switches. Turn the left hand fast idle lever up, turn the right hand thumbswitch to the center position and hit the starter. You also need to have the sidestand up. Once it's running, don't let it sit still too long; the pipes will get cherry red.

 

Good luck,

Allen

[philbytx]

John, I just went through "reactivating" a 2000 R1100R with 6.5k miles on it. It had been stored (but covered!) for 3 years....

 

PM me and I'll be happy to help you.