Jump to content
IGNORED

My RT trailering method


Gkgeiger

Recommended Posts

I have trailered bikes for many years (mostly dirt bikes) and have always felt you should use the suspension of the bike to absorb the load. I have never liked the recommended method of towing a BMW. I feel that only using the tire pressure to absorb the shock puts too much strain on the tie downs of the trailer. So, I had a boat cover guy make me a set of soft ties 34" long. I attach them to the bar risers, hang them to the rear of the top triple tree and cross them between the fork tubes. It works great for me. I first used this method on my GS and now my RT. I have added some pics to help explain what I mean.

tydown001Small.jpg

tydown002Small.jpg

tydown003Small.jpg

Link to comment

Excellent! Your method looks far more stable than many others I have seen.

 

Mind if I used your pics and method on my website? I am sure others would benefit from your experience.

Link to comment
I have trailered bikes for many years (mostly dirt bikes) and have always felt you should use the suspension of the bike to absorb the load.

 

????

 

If your trailer has a great suspension, maybe your method makes sense. Otherwise it doesn't...to me.

 

a) Unless you want the straps to loosen at each bump (not good)...

 

b) You have to compress the suspension about two-thirds (not good).

 

If you really should "use the suspension of the bike to absorb the load" you ought to tie the tire down and let the bike bounce. smile.gif

Link to comment

Brian,

I have no problem with you using the photos.

 

David,

My trailer does have a torsion axle. If you look at the last pic you will see that the straps have safety catches on both ends. I usually compress the suspension about half way. Having raced cross country, hare scrambles, and enduros for over 35 years, and trailering many thousands of miles, I feel I have never done any harm to the springs or shocks on any of my race bikes. I also tie the rear of the bike down using the suspension.

Link to comment

If you really should "use the suspension of the bike to absorb the load" you ought to tie the tire down and let the bike bounce. smile.gif

 

Without a payload, would the bike's suspension really soak up the bumps?

 

Maybe a 200 lb bag of sand should be strapped to the saddle? Barring that, you could always kill a hobo.

Link to comment

Very interesting. Great pictures. As a fulltime RVer, I carry my bike on the back of the coach on a lift. After 5 plus years doing this with the Harley, I'm now going to do it with the R12RT. I've been trying to picture how it would work and I think your pictures have shown me the way. I also tie down the tires to prevent any bouncing. Question: how far out are your tie down points? I'm sort of limited on the lift and wonder how close your tiedowns come to any bike surface.

Link to comment

Gene, I'm going to have to disagree with you here. Tying a late model BMW down via the fork bridge (above the fender) is better. The front wheel is immobilized (especially when a good chock is used) and it allows the bike to float on it's suspension naturally. What could be better than that?

Link to comment

I've got to vote "no" too.

 

With your method you're putting unnecessary compression on the front suspension that still has to absorb the bumps etc. of going down the road to boot. The front (and the rear for that matter) suspension is designed to carry the weight of the bike when naturally allowed to compress and expand. Whether on the ground or one foot above it on a trailer.

 

Let it do it's thing. It will look scarier in the rear-view mirror but actually is much safer / secure.

Link to comment

Sorry for the slight hijack, but it is a "trailering method". What is the lift assembly you use behind the RV? Do you feel that it contributes to an unbalanced coach by having the RT on the lift? Thanks

Link to comment

I dunno.... Seems like a crime to put that new 1200RT on a trailer behind a pickup. Just ride it!! grin.gif

 

If I can ride mine across Canada round trip... I'll shutup now

Link to comment

RV Lifts from Santa Cruz. Similar to Overbilt from upstate New York. This is the second coach I've had the lift on. Both carried Harleys - current bike about 750 lbs, the previous one close to 850. As explained to me at the factory, when there's extra weight, the suspension adjusts to keep the coach level. Over 5 years and no troubles of any kind. The RT at about 600 shouldn't be a problem. Tieing it down has been a concern that the pictures have helped to overcome. I'll have a complete cover made when I get to southern CA as the one for the Harley obviously wont fit. Arrive at destination, cover off, lower bike, dust off bike, ride. grin.gif

Link to comment
Eckhard Grohe

My big worry would be the edges of the tiedowns cutting(sawing) into any wiring or other conduit passing near their edges because of vibration or wind turbulence.

Link to comment

David H,

Tie down point are about 30"

 

To everyone who likes the BMW recommended way. I'm only offering an alternative method, everyone who needs to tow their bike from time to time can make up their own mind. I also agree that the bike should be ridden when possible. My RT is 3 months old and has 9000 miles, but in the winter when I'm going south I trailer. Also, when I need service I trailer so I don't have to ask anyone to drive the 30 miles to the dealer to pick me up.

Link to comment

Thanks for the info Gene. One more question: does your bike have ESA? I've read that some of the early imports did not. Should this make a difference in compressing or not compressing the front end?

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...