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location of fuel reserve switch & fuel pump?


dharnie

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I put 350 miles on my 2004 r1150p so far. I have no manual. anyone tell me where is valve to switch to reserve fuel and also the location of the fuel pump? Thanks!

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Joe Frickin' Friday
Fuel pump is inside the gas tank. These BMW's have no reserve.

 

No reserve fuel quantity, but there is an amber "low fuel" warning light on the dashboard (down by the turn signal & hi-beam indicator lights).

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Inside the gas tank. Lotsa fun to fiddle with...you're gonna love it :dopeslap: I suggest you use internet resources and write ups on what and how to do this before making any attempts.

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...or come to the NE Tech Daze, where people can help you, and show you all the tricks. (including how to put the filter on backwards!)

 

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I just did a fuel filter on my bike. No problem. As suggested reseach the procedure before you go in. Or get the manual you will glad you did. While you have all the plastic off and the gas tank removed you can do other checks and adjustments.

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when you do take things apart to get to the fuel filter, be aware those bmw hose clamps are a pain to remove/replace without some special tool.

 

I ended up taking them all off, putting regular worm drive hose clamps rated for fuel injected hoses...no problem, much easier to work with!

 

 

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They're called Oetiker clamps and if you have the special tool and the correct size clamps, they're easier (IMO) than the worm drive.

 

I've always managed to stab my finger or hand with the pointy bit of a phillips head screwdriver when really tightening the worm drives. The actual tool slices through the ears of the Oetiker clamp like a hot knife thru butter and they fall off. The pincers of the tool hold the hose to the spiggot very tightly with little effort.

 

If you have the tools, I think that they're easier and better.

 

Linz :)

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You can indeed just cut off the Oetiker clamps.

 

But keep in mind the fuel injection hose clamps and common worm clamps are not the same thing. The later not being appropriate for high pressure fuel systems.

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The screw-type clamps for the fuel filter are BMW part no 13 31 1 460 928. The fiche says it's a 13 mm clamp, but I've tried some non-BMW so-called 13 mm clamps that work fine on the exterior hoses at the quick-disconnects and fuel distributor, but are too small on the fuel filter, even though they're all 13 mm OD hoses. The fiche shows a 12.5 mm clamp, part no 17 12 1 461 500, on the exterior hoses. My recommendation is, in this case, just get the correct BMW parts for the spots you're putting them. The clamps are only like $1.50 each for the reusable screw-type.

 

BTW, a fuel injection hose clamp looks like this:

 

fuel-injection-hose-clamp.jpg

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Linz-

 

Do you have a source for the clamps and tool? Also what sizes are used for the fuel filter?

 

I bought my tools in OZ but a Google search would find a company in the US for you. The correct procedure for figuring out which clamps to buy is to measure the external size of the hose *with* the fuel spigot inside the hose. All my BMW stuff measured 15mm. The correct Oetiker clamps are the 13-15mm ones. I bought the double ear variety.

 

The tools available are either the straight pincer type or the dual purpose type. If you're buying one tool, the dual purpose is the one to get. This allows you to get into tight areas as the clamping tool can clamp from straight on or, as the dual purpose has a clamping jaw on the side of the tool as well, you can clamp in restricted places from the side (if that makes sense).

 

Linz :)

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You'll have no problem using standard FI worm drive clamps on the filter. Just orient them correctly or they will hang up the float arm. And yes, I did that !

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Linz, posted this link a month ago under another topic check it out,makes these painless.

 

At some point doing routine maintenance we all run into those tough little clamps. Here is a 3 minute video on how to deal with installation and removal.This video is care of EAA

Oshkosh WI."Hint of the Week" series.

 

http://link.brightcove.com/services/link/bcpid1431564069/bclid1432781645/bctid10529461001

 

kc

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The "stock" clamps aren't really all that hard to deal with. Pointed needle nose pliers, insert ONE of the pliers nose (tip) in the clamp gap, close the pliers while griping the clamp and twist "open" slightly each way. This will loosen the clamp enough to slide it on the hose. When re-installing, position, and use some small "side cutter" type pliers to SLIGHTLY squeeze the clamp back closed.

 

Works just fine, and they can be re-used numerous times. When they finally give out/break when loosening/removing, it's time for new ones.

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