jamesmx5 Posted August 11, 2005 Share Posted August 11, 2005 What do you think, would powdercoating the valve covers be acceptable? It would be much more durable than the factory paint. My only concern is that thicker powdercoating would not dissipate heat as much. I was thinking of powdercoating them chrome or silver as the factory finish on mine looks dull. Link to comment
W. Mazelin Posted August 11, 2005 Share Posted August 11, 2005 A friend of mine powder coated his valve covers and wheels black, it looked sharp. His bike was a red '97 R-1100-RT. Link to comment
canoehead Posted August 11, 2005 Share Posted August 11, 2005 Probably don't have to worry much about heat dissapation of valve covers on oil-heads, unlike on the airheads. Best of my recollection the valve covers are not overly warm to the touch if you put your hand on them even right after shut down so there can't be that much heat there to begin with. Link to comment
jim c Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 i'm doing the covers, foot rest sides, and other assorted items this winter. Link to comment
Mike O Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 i'm doing the covers, foot rest sides, and other assorted items this winter. Really? I'd entertain doing the valve covers. What's entailed? PM me. Mike O Link to comment
No_Twilight Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 [quote Really? I'd entertain doing the valve covers. What's entailed? PM me. Mike O If you're only doing the valve covers, and you want them black, you might consider buying the black valve covers from BMW. I bought a pair on sale and haven't installed them yet. It might be cheaper than paying for a short run powdercoating. But if you're not in a hurry and can leave them at the coater until they're doing a run of that color, I hear you can save some money. Cheers, Jerry Link to comment
Tool Man Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 Mag doesn't like the temps that powder coating curing can produce.It may soften them a bit. T-6 or T-7 aluminum has a better "memory" than Mag and will come back close to it's treated state (over time) better than Mag. Ceramic coating would be tougher and less heat under the curing proccess without loosing it's tensil strength. The coating I chose for the exhaust would look nice as a valve cover alternative and it stays that way. Just a thought...and it's available in colors. For the other Aluminum items I would go with anodizing. Mag cannot be anodized, but can be Erudited. There are some wild anodize colors available now as well as rainbow colors if that sort of thing blows 'yer skirt up. Powder coat treatment is good but remember to mask or plug all tapped holes and through holes. The stuff is pretty thick and a pain to clean up an area not intended to be coated, such as a valve cover seal. Some powder coaters will NOT mask or plug an area where as with anodize vendors it's part of the service, so be sure to ask before delivering your parts. I've had it all done over the years depending on customer need. Some coatings just work better for the chosen material and required results. Remember this though...anodized aluminum does not conduct, so be aware that any conducting parts can be Erudited also for good looks and weather / UV protection. Link to comment
AndyS Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 Just a polite question, doesn't most powder coat cure off at about 200 degrees C. My question is 'surely this temperature is nowhere near magnesiums elastic temperature is it? The temperature to anneal magnesium is in the 300 - 400 degree C envelope with the melting point for pure magnesium being around 650 degrees C, so the powder coating shouldn't be a problem should it?' Andy S Link to comment
Pilgrim Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 Just a polite question, doesn't most powder coat cure off at about 200 degrees C. My question is 'surely this temperature is nowhere near magnesiums elastic temperature is it? The temperature to anneal magnesium is in the 300 - 400 degree C envelope with the melting point for pure magnesium being around 650 degrees C, so the powder coating shouldn't be a problem should it?' Andy S Nope. I do powdercoating at home, and it must be baked for 20 minutes at 400 degrees F after it flows out. FYI, go here to see a kit available for use at home. I've used one for about five years, and find it is very good, and very easy. I have no interest in the company, etc. Pilgrim Link to comment
doc47 Posted August 13, 2005 Share Posted August 13, 2005 Heat disippation (how many p's and how many s's in that word?) won't be a problem. The main controllers are the actual cylinder fins. Let your imagination take wing! Link to comment
Pilgrim Posted August 15, 2005 Share Posted August 15, 2005 Right you are, Andy. I missed the C. Centigrade degrees are too big, anyway. Pilgrim Link to comment
BABABeemer Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 I powdercoated my 1999 valve covers black and they look really great! The only problem is getting off the old finish! I think it is a powder coat and it is a real bear to remove! Good luck! Link to comment
Temeneos Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 I have an extra set of covers that I was thinking of having chromed. Anyone have some advise or warnings as to chroming the mag covers? Link to comment
jim c Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 I have an extra set of covers that I was thinking of having chromed. Anyone have some advise or warnings as to chroming the mag covers? depending on who does it. you might have issues with oil seepage between cover/gasket & head as your cover may warp slightly. something that we ran across years ago with no name plated primary covers on HD's Link to comment
JB-BMW Posted August 18, 2005 Share Posted August 18, 2005 Mike, Where did you get the coating done on your exhaust pipes? Interested in doing the same on my RT. Link to comment
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