trek Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Do you need any special tools to replace spark plugs on the 1200 RT. Link to comment
johnlt Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Not really but keep in mind, it takes a thin-walled socket to fit over the plug AND into the plug hole. Some standard sockets will not fit into the hole. I use a Chraftsman that seems to work fine. You also need a plug-cap puller. I think the bike comes with a plastic one but many buy a stronger metal version. You can also use pliers "carefully" in a pinch but its really not the right tool for the job. Link to comment
trek Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 Thanks for the info. Link to comment
Redbrick Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 It's a good idea to have a lock-the-socket on type of extention so you don't pull off the socket when taking the plug out....For plug sockets, I have a Snap On #S9706KA but you can probably find a thin walled one much cheaper at Harbor Freight...... Link to comment
markgoodrich Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 this is the socket you need: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91705 From 2006 at least, there's no plug wire puller provided with the bike. Marc Parnes makes a metal one. I've used it successfully several times, but also busted the little plastic lip off one side, and ended up using a flat screwdriver with some duct tape over the end to carefully ease the plug wire out...it's quite deep. But listen, if I can do it, ANYONE can do it. Link to comment
Kerry in Mpls Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 ...busted the little plastic lip off one side... Me too. In my case, there is still enough for the Parnes tool to grab onto, but I wish I had aligned it more carefully. Link to comment
Dave_C Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 I broke the plug wire slotted portion prying it out. Now I just take off the valve cover since I adjust the valves at the same time I change the plugs. Link to comment
trek Posted February 2, 2009 Author Share Posted February 2, 2009 Forgive me for asking but where exactly is the second plug. I believe it is located on the bottom of the cylinder and requires removal of the fairing.If I am wrong please help. Link to comment
johnlt Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 On the RT, you do have to remove the tupperware to get at the second plug. On the GSs, you have access. I used an extra extension and "pinned" it on the socket so it wouldn't come off inside the spark plug hole. I guess you might call that a special tool. Link to comment
Dick_at_Lake_Tahoe_NV Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 It's a good idea to carefully release the tab securing the ignition coil wiring connectors and disconnect the connnectors before you pull the coil out. This goes for top and bottom plugs. Link to comment
Dave_in_TX Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 On the RT, you do have to remove the tupperware to get at the second plug. On the GSs, you have access. I used an extra extension and "pinned" it on the socket so it wouldn't come off inside the spark plug hole. I guess you might call that a special tool. On the RT, it can be done without completely removing the tupperware. If you remove the lower screws, the plastic is flexible enoigh that you can get to the secondary plugs. Link to comment
SWB Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 Not really but keep in mind, it takes a thin-walled socket to fit over the plug AND into the plug hole. Some standard sockets will not fit into the hole. I use a Chraftsman that seems to work fine. You also need a plug-cap puller. I think the bike comes with a plastic one but many buy a stronger metal version. You can also use pliers "carefully" in a pinch but its really not the right tool for the job. With my R1100RT, I bought not one but two of the plastic tools to pull the plug wires (duplicate order when I was buying off my parts list), but rarely used either. I just used two pair of needle-nose pliers crossed, to gently work the plugs out. Then I put Nology wires on the bike which lacked any kind of tab on the end to use with the puller, and never used the special tool again. I assume my R1200RT uses the same tool, and assume I now have 3 of them which I'll probably never use. I'll pick up the wrench from Harbor Freight next time I'm there. I have the BMW plug wrench, but would rather use a torque wrench than rely on my finely-honed mechanical sense of touch to strip the heck out of plug threads of my new RT's heads. Link to comment
vfrman Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 It's a good idea to carefully release the tab securing the ignition coil wiring connectors and disconnect the connnectors before you pull the coil out. This goes for top and bottom plugs. Why is this important? Link to comment
lvnvbiker Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 Because that little wire can break quite easily and is probably a million bucks to replace. I unplug it first, then use a pair of flat head screwdrivers to pop the coil loose myself. The little plastic tool is crap, and I'm to cheap to buy the metal one when it only takes a light pry and out the coils come. As far as the socket I just use a regular Craftsman deepwell metric socket. Putting them in does give me an excuse to use my new Snapon techangle torque wrench... God I love trick tools.... Link to comment
ChrisM Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 It's a good idea to have a lock-the-socket on type of extention so you don't pull off the socket when taking the plug out....For plug sockets, I have a Snap On #S9706KA but you can probably find a thin walled one much cheaper at Harbor Freight...... I have a "dedicated" spark plug socket: A cheap plug socket, turned on a lathe to a smaller diameter, with an extra extension permanently attached via JB Weld. Link to comment
Albert Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 It's a good idea to carefully release the tab securing the ignition coil wiring connectors and disconnect the connnectors before you pull the coil out. This goes for top and bottom plugs. Why is this important? Also, if the connector is still in place it can be partially separated when the coil is pulled. I did this while changing my plugs and the result was a serious "miss" under heavy throttle use after the plug change. Took a little while to find but the connector had pulled apart slightly. Link to comment
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