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Autocom Issues and answers


steve-o

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Moderator Edit: This thread began with the title, Autocom Ridiculousness. As it proceeded through the stages of inquiry/response, and thanks to the involvement of Autocom's Managing Director, Tom Beman, it has turned into a very useful dialogue which has helped us all to better understand ground loops, isolation, and a variety of other issues that any complex Autocom installation must deal with in order to provide sweet sounds and all proper controls.

 

As you scroll through this discussion, you will find where eventually it was suggested that the title be changed to something more apropo. Your Mod Team has done that. Unfortunately the change only affects the subject line visible in the forum, and atop this post. All others who responded to the original title, will still have it showing at the top of their posts.

 

It is true. This has been a most enlightening discussion.

 

- - - - -

 

 

I bought an Active Plus last january, and spent lots of hours with an Auto Audio/electronics expert trying to make it work; plus lots of e-mails and phone conversations with two guys at Top Gear: They are uncaring and uninterested in helping me, but were very quick to reject any mention of 'warranty'. I was told that Tom B (who hangs out here) is connected with Autocom UK and knows the products and that he's my last hope before junking it and buying a Baehr. I'm trying to get it to send my Escort signals to my earplug speakers and it won't - even with the splitter (part 1316 or 1317) they sold me. The lead works when I test it with my iPod, and the Escort works when I connect the erplugs directly bu that's messy/unsatisfactory. My goal is to have my zumo and Escort run into my earplugs but........ It's probably ( I hope) a relatively trivial but obscure issue - but since I can't get those who took lots of money from me to help I feel pretty helpless. Ideas?

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Hi Steve,

 

Sorry for the frustration, I'm sure it can be resolved. It would be very helpful if you could describe how you have everything connected. Where and how is the escort connect to the autocom.

 

 

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The Escort signal lead runs under the tank to the AutoCom box under the saddle, along with leads for my zumo, a ham radio, and an iPod (which I don't use). Power from each is hardwired. The Escort is plugged into Aux 1: I burned out several escort audio chips by plugging it into other Aux ports, according to AutoCom's manual but the Escort folks figured out that those other ports are powered - they solved the problem that Top Gear couldn't/didn't.

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Steve

 

I have just seen this and am working the solution for you. be back very soon with your complete fix. Have no worries

 

Autocom UK Tom

 

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Steve

 

First things first; my new website is being tuned and so the best way to see the parts I want to describe is to look at the http://www.chainspeed.co.uk/ site, as Sam at Chain-Speed is fully Autocom factory trained and was lightning quick to grab this data from our new site, when he had the chance.

 

Right; you have our Autocom Active system which has 4 Aux inputs as standard.

 

Per the instruction manual

 

Aux 1 is for phone

Aux 2 is for stereo music (Ipod)

Aux 3 is for GPS/Radar (Zumo/Escort)

Aux 4 is for bike to bike radio (Ham Radio)

 

All by using the appropriate optional interface leads to suit.

 

If the IPod was used portable and not bike powered you would be able to use the standard stereo music lead supplied in the kit, but as you are bike powering both your Active and IPod you will need the isolated stereo music lead part 1314 and plug this into Aux 2

 

We make a twin splitter isolated lead part 1285 that is designed to mix a bike powered GPS and radar detector into your Autocom system Aux 3. you will require a couple of cheap leads from the twin isolated splitter to your GPS and Escort. I think you will be able to use the standard stereo music lead that cam with your kit for the GPS, but as I am not sure of the connection on your escort, we need to check this first.

 

I do not know your ham radio so cannot suggest an interface lead to suit, but as your post suggests this is bike powered and I presume your Active is also bike powered, again you will need to use an isolated interface lead to suit your transceiver, and my guess would be that this is not something off the shelf and would need to be custom made? Can you confirm how you have connected the ham and if bike powered is it isolated?

 

I think that’s about it? Looking forward to getting you where you want to be.

 

Autocom UK Tom

 

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This may be a silly question, but are you using a mono lead? My older Escort required a mono, not a stereo audio lead.

 

++ Same problem here. In order to make the Escort connect properly, here is my setup (Active Plus):

1) Bought the Escort ground loop isolator cable. Plugged it's mono plug into the Escort.

2) On the "box" end of the GLI cable, I plugged a Radio Shack MONO patch cable into the GLI and the other end of this cable into a Radio Shack mono-to-stereo plug adapter.

3) The Mono-to-stereo adapter plugs into AUX 3 of the Autocom.

Any other way and it just didn't work. Maybe this will work for you.

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At this point nothing is silly - I'm so confused with all the changes I've been making. Sounds like I'll get some leads/parts and play a bit until I get it fixed: At least you all are giving me some productive questions and advice, unlike TopGear. Thanks very much! Steve

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Tom; (Wish I know how to send private messages since this is lengthy) Thanks for the help. Here's what I (think I) know. My radio (Kenwood TH6) and its PTT work fine: It runs through Aux 4. I think the iPod lead runs with them - it's bundled with them at the 'dash'. Aux2 is open. I have little if any desire to use the iPod - only as a possible, extremely rare, unforeseen, occurrence. I have the Escort (it's a new 9500i) through Aux1 because I was able to open the box and confirm that Aux 1 isn't powered (a tech at TopGear sent a pic of the board with and without the power wire in place). After burning up 4 audio chips and begging Escort to fix them I'm EXTREMELY leery of burning it up - since the nice tech at Escort told/showed me what the problem was I don't expect them to fix it any more without big charges. So I have the zumo in Aux3. TopGear cleared up what the Active Plus manual says: Aux 3 for GPS, and Aux 1 for radar (normally cell phone). That's their recommendation. You're saying to run both the Escort and the GPS through Aux 3 and you have a splitter: Maybe that's why TopGear sold me a splitter for $150 - we couldn't figure out any use for it. I'm willing to try that if you can guarantee that won't burn my Escort audio chip. Then maybe I won't have to buy another splitter from you. And I hope to avoid some of the other fixes - adding parts - the other responses have suggested. Steve

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Tom; (Wish I know how to send private messages since this is lengthy) Thanks for the help. Here's what I (think I) know. My radio (Kenwood TH6) and its PTT work fine: It runs through Aux 4. I think the iPod lead runs with them - it's bundled with them at the 'dash'. Aux2 is open. I have little if any desire to use the iPod - only as a possible, extremely rare, unforeseen, occurrence. I have the Escort (it's a new 9500i) through Aux1 because I was able to open the box and confirm that Aux 1 isn't powered (a tech at TopGear sent a pic of the board with and without the power wire in place). After burning up 4 audio chips and begging Escort to fix them I'm EXTREMELY leery of burning it up - since the nice tech at Escort told/showed me what the problem was I don't expect them to fix it any more without big charges. So I have the zumo in Aux3. TopGear cleared up what the Active Plus manual says: Aux 3 for GPS, and Aux 1 for radar (normally cell phone). That's their recommendation. You're saying to run both the Escort and the GPS through Aux 3 and you have a splitter: Maybe that's why TopGear sold me a splitter for $150 - we couldn't figure out any use for it. I'm willing to try that if you can guarantee that won't burn my Escort audio chip. Then maybe I won't have to buy another splitter from you. And I hope to avoid some of the other fixes - adding parts - the other responses have suggested. Steve

 

 

Steve, by all means go with Tom's suggestions when he responds. But I have the feeling the issue will be much easier and cheaper to fix than a $150 (?!) splitter cable. Here is what works on mine--all 3 open aux. inputs. Also, fyi I "converted" my Active Plus from powered aux to unpowered aux as soon as I got it. In my opinion that is an accident just waiting to happen--there must be a better way to provide power for a B-T:

 

AUX 1 (center hole):Open-no input

AUX 2 (inner hole): Audio (XM and nav directions)from Garmin 478--just a plain stereo Radio Shack cable. The Garmin is bike-powered thru the front accessory socket.

AUX 3 (outer hole): Escort--wired as described in post above using Escort GLI and Radio Shack cables and plugs--about $10 worth. Powered thru front accessory socket.

 

Good luck! :wave:

 

 

 

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Steve

 

The main reason someone blows their accessories (or Autocom) is normally because they fail to understand the importance of using ISOLATION leads when BOTH the Autocom and the accessory are bike powered.

 

If your accessory runs on its own batteries, and you also use separate batteries in your Autocom, you can connect your accessory to your Autocom using a standard hard wired lead, because each device has its own independent isolated power supply.

 

If either device is run on internal batteries, and the other device is bike powered, you can still use a standard hard wired interface lead, because each device still has its own (independent and so isolated from each other) power supplies.

 

If BOTH your accessory and Autocom are bike powered, it means that they now share a common earth point (the bikes battery) and so now you have to be very careful not to use standard hard wired interface leads between your accessory and Autocom, because you will cause what’s called EARTH LOOPS (or ground loops)

 

Many audio devices use amplifiers that have what’s called common earth, in other words the amplifier/speaker earth is common to the power supply earth. Common earths are also particularly usual for audio inputs, to help reduce undesirable electrical interference noise. ALL Autocom Aux inputs use common earth (relative to the power supply) so that any noise picked up on the accessory leads is sunk to the power supply earth and so reduced/eliminated.

 

THE PROBLEM IS, that many accessories use what’s called INDEPENDENT EARTHS on their audio outputs, and while these don’t mind being connected to your Autocom if either of both devices are used with their own independent batteries, they are a problem if both devices are bike powered and you do not use isolation interface leads.

 

If both devices are connected to the bikes power you then create a COMMON power earth. If you now use an ordinary interface leads between the accessory and Autocom you cause the accessories audio output to become connected to its own power earth (via the standard interface lead, through the Autocom, down the Autocom power lead, to the bikes battery, back through the accessories power lead and BANG! You over heat the accessories audio amplifier until it BLOWS!

 

To stop this happening you HAVE to use ISOLATION leads when both your accessory and Autocom are bike powered.

 

If you follow my previous post you will protect all your accessories and have a great system that last for years.

 

 

Autocom UK Tom

 

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What a great (clear, etc) explanation: TopGear didn't mention / just blew this issue off!

As several respondents have said; since all accessories and the Active Plus are bike powered I need the isolation loop. So I'm not going to trust the TG statement that I can just put the Escort into an unpowered Aux port Tom; Does the part # 1316 or 1317 sold to me by TG work the same as your part 1285? If not how can I get your p#1285? More thanks, Steve

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Tom, I have a question re. ground loops. If a ground loop occurs, do you usually have some sort of audio interference or could the audio act completely normal? I had audio interference with my Escort so I bought the ground loop iso. and all was well. But with my Garmin 478 audio input I'm using a standard stereo lead, no GLI, and have never had any noise or strange behavior. How can you determine if the audio devices have the "independent earths" as opposed to common? In particular my Garmin, which is bike powered as is the Autocom Active +.

Thanks!

Bob

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1317

Twin Music Mixer

Twin input stereo music lead. Input A isolated for bike powered music systems, input B not isolated For use with all Autocom systems.

£29.00 inc VAT

 

 

 

IMPORTANT UPDATE!

 

In my previous post I said you could use a 1285 in Aux 2…. I meant Aux 1.

 

Aux 1 is a MONO connection for a phone while Aux 2 is for Stereo connections, The 1285 has a Type 1 wired plug for connection to our Aux 1 mono phone socket. NOT for stereo Aux 2 socket

 

 

The 1317 is a twin music mixer. This is designed for ONE bike powered music system (which it isolates) and one NONE bike powered music system, (which it does not isolate) so it is no good for your escort and GPS.

 

You could use the A socket which is isolated for either one of the devices, but would also need a 3.5mm stereo plug./lead to fit into the A socket and the other end of this lead would go to either your GPS or Escort, but you would need the corresponding connector fitted for that device. The standard stereo music lead supplied with the kits will fit the A socket and a Zumo 550, and if you connected part 1317 to Aux 2 you would receive ISOLATED stereo audio from a bike powered Zumo to the bike powered Autocom system.

 

The B socket would not be suitable for any bike powered device, but you could use it for a portable IPod etc (that is NOT bike powered)

 

The 1285 has TWO ISOLATION transformers built within, so you can use two MONO bike powered devices through it at the same time, to a single 3.5mm socket on the Autocom (IE Aux 1)

 

The 1286 has TWO ISOLATION transformers built within, so you can use two MONO bike powered devices through it at the same time to a single 3.5mm socket on the Autocom (IE Aux 2)

 

I cannot lay my hands on a data sheet for a 1316 at the moment so I cannot comment just yet

 

I would ask you to PLEASE check with TopGear if they have any 1285 or 1286 in stock, as we are trying to oblige then with their clear out of Autocom parts.

 

 

If they do not have one available hopefully they will tell you where your nearest USA dealer is that has one in stock.

 

ONLY if you have tried ALL your USA dealers first and cannot get one in the USA can I sell you one directly from the UK

 

Maybe if any USA dealers are reading this you can hint if you have one available, Oh! and while we are on the subject. LOOK you do need to stock these parts. THERE IS A DEMAND!

 

Hope this helps

 

Autocom UK Tom

 

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Tom, I have a question re. ground loops. If a ground loop occurs, do you usually have some sort of audio interference or could the audio act completely normal? I had audio interference with my Escort so I bought the ground loop iso. and all was well. But with my Garmin 478 audio input I'm using a standard stereo lead, no GLI, and have never had any noise or strange behavior. How can you determine if the audio devices have the "independent earths" as opposed to common? In particular my Garmin, which is bike powered as is the Autocom Active +.

Thanks!

Bob

 

 

 

 

Sometimes you can hear an effect of ground loops. It may be that you hear alternator whine, or you may hear a popping sound, or you may find that for short periods you lose all audio, which comes back on after a while.

 

The popping sound is because you are shorting the main power amplifier to ground and it is complaining, eventually if overheats and if you are lucky if shuts down to protect itself rather than blowing. But keep doing this and it will blow/burn out eventually, if not instantly in some case.

 

In a few cases where ISOLATION is really required we have seen some people get away without it, but this is not meant to happen and is just dead lucky. I suppose if you have a poor earth somewhere it may be just enough to complete a reasonable circuit and power a device, but with enough resistance to let you get away without seriously overheating and blowing the power amp?

 

It may be that an in-line capacitor on the power amp can help (sometimes) to prevent any DC (power) loads causing the problem, but in many case this is not enough and isolation transformers is by far the best way to protect your investments.

 

I do not know the spec of your 478 so cannot comment, perhaps it is a common earth output so will be OK or perhaps you are one of the lucky people mentioned above?

 

Sometimes if you can see the metal part of the devices output socket it is the earth and you could test meter this to the negative power lead and see if it is a VERY low resistance (short) if it is open circuit its almost certainly independent earth and requires isolation, but if it’s a short then its almost certainly a common earth and should be OK.

 

Right I hope I’ve hot that all right, I’ve been up since 3.30am and its now 8.45pm so I’m off for some zzz’s

 

Autocom UK Tom

 

 

 

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Tom; Lets see if I have interpreted all this correctly. Since my Escort, zumo and Autocom 'box' are all bike powered:

Escort through the 'A' side of #1317 into Aux1 getting an isolated mono signal. (good)

zumo through either Aux 2 for stereo, or Aux 3 for mono.

And stereo leads for all won't cause a problem. Including the mono ports(?)

Steve

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Tom; Lets see if I have interpreted all this correctly. Since my Escort, zumo and Autocom 'box' are all bike powered:

 

Escort through the 'A' side of #1317 into Aux1 getting an isolated mono signal. (good)

zumo through either Aux 2 for stereo, or Aux 3 for mono.

And stereo leads for all won't cause a problem. Including the mono ports(?)

 

 

Steve with my website not up to speed just yet, I cannot show you the information I would like to, so I suggest you look at this site http://www.chainspeed.co.uk/autocom/accessories.php

 

Can you tell me if your GPS is mono or stereo and what output connectors does it have?

Can you tell me if your Escort is mono or stereo and what output connectors does it have?

Please make sure the information you provide is correct and easy for me to clearly understand so that I can nail this for you.

 

Your Part 1317 is a stereo lead designed for use in Aux 2 only. If your GPS or Escort is stereo and you can connect it to the part 1317 (socket A only) then you can use this lead via our Aux 2 connection

 

Aux 1 is MONO designed for a phone

Aux 2 is STEREO designed for music

Aux 3 is MONO designed for GPS/Radar

Aux 4 is MONO designed for Bike to Bike radio

 

Aux 1 (starting from the tip) Mic+, then Speaker+, then 9 volt out, then common Earth

Aux 2 (starting from the tip) Right Spk+. Left Spk+, Mic+, Earth

Aux 3 (starting from the tip) Mic+, Spk+ VOX, Earth

Aux 4 is MONO designed for Bike to Bike radio via 5 pin grey din

 

We call the connection for Aux 1 a type 1 connection (because it is mono)

We call the connection for Aux 2 a type 2 connection (because it is stereo)

We call the connection for Aux 3 a type 3 connection (because it is different with VOX)

 

All are 3.5mm (FOUR) 4 pole jack sockets and THEY ARE ALL WIRED DIFFERENTLY for different purposes

 

Inputs into Aux 2 and 3 have no effect to other inputs, while input to Aux 1 causes the Aux 2 audio (normally stereo music) to cut 100% for about 20 to 30 seconds, AND it also disables the VOX transmit mode on Aux 4 so that while on the phone (Aux 1) the bike to bike radio (on Aux 4) does not broadcast your phone conversation out to all the other bikes. This also means that you are not jamming the other bikes radios while on the phone, so they can continue bike to bike conversations.

 

NOTE this is ONLY for the Active system. All new 2009 systems use Type 2 STEREO connections for all Aux connections except bike to bike

 

As you want to use two bike powered devices with your bike powered Autocom system, I would recommend that you use EITHER part 1285 via Aux 1 OR part 1286 via Aux 2 or Aux 3

 

Part 1317 is really only deigned for connecting two stereo music devices, one being bike powered via socket A, and one being portable via socket B. this part is also sometimes used if you want to connect a STEREO (bike powered) GPS (like a Garmin Zumo 550) which has a typical stereo 3.5mm audio output, via socket A (so that it is fully ISOLATED) to your Autocom Aux 2 connection. PLUS also a portable music device via socket B.

 

The standard (none isolated) stereo music lead supplied in the base kit (3.5mm plug to both ends) could be used between the portable music device and socket B or between the 550 3.5mm stereo output and socket A

 

Hope this helps, but if you are still stuck I suggest that you contact our technical support team www.enquiries@autocom.co.uk and give them you phone number (who will have a copy of this correspondence) and they will phone you back

 

Autocom UK Tom

 

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Steve,

 

Can I just say that if you go to autocom.co.uk --> Downloads --> Helpful Guides you will find schematics for the inputs of the Active Plus and information about isolating and mixing leads.

 

You said that TG sold you a splitter for $150 - was that the #1317? Sounds pricey for that lead.

 

If you don't want to use a cellphone with your Zumo, but just want navigation and music, then you could connect the stereo music output from the Zumo into the #1317 and then into Aux2.

 

Your passport has a 3.5mm mono earphone jack. Bob has suggested keeping the cable mono into the Escort. You could use a Autocom #1293 3.5mm mono to stereo lead connected into a #1285 and then into Aux1 or Aux3 (see Bob's reply). If Aux1, the signal from the radar would mute the music/nav - if Aux3 then the two signals will mix.

 

All your bike-powered inputs will be isolated for optimum system performance.

 

I hope this helps. If you want to use a cellphone through the Zumo, then come back to us.

 

 

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John

 

Thanks for mentioning these. Our new site has/had a new section that presented this better, but it is temporarily down while we update the new parts and part numbers. I have been so focused on developing all the new parts that I forgot we had copied this from the old site onto the new site?

 

 

Steve; please take a look at these links which will help you to understand what you require

 

http://www.autocom.co.uk/pdf/Twin%20Mixer%20Leads.pdf

 

http://www.autocom.co.uk/pdf/Part%201317%20Instructions.pdf

 

http://www.autocom.co.uk/pdf/Active%20PLUS%20Aux%20Sockets.pdf

 

 

Autocom UK Tom

 

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John; Yep: TG charged $148 for #1317.

Tom: The zumo550 is stereo with a 3.5mm signal output plug. The Escort is mono, 3.5mm signal output. They include a power output cord using the conventional telephone(landline) squarish plug.

I note tha all my leads are 3-pole since they only have 2 (black) bands on the plug - so this could be part of the problem. This is confirmed by the picture of 1317 (2 bands/3 poles) vs the pix of 1286 (3 bands/4 poles)

Both Tom & John: I don't want cell phone use. My Kenwood TH6, with its PTT work fine through Aux4. Sometimes I'll use the TH6 as primary with the GPS as secondary (referring to muting/override issues) but I absolutely do not want VOX active, ever. So that appears to rule out using Aux3 for the Escort, and which would require a 1286 (4-pole)For most of my riding I use the Escort and the GPS - in which case having the Escort mute the GPS is a plus. And: working from a pic that a TG "tech expert" sent; inside my Active Plus box there isn't a (little silver loop of) wire so Aux 1 is not powered... And I haven't burnt the Escort using it. So I like John's ideas - of running the zumo through 1317, port A, into Aux2 and running the Escort through Aux1. The only questions these leave is: 1) 1317 is a 3-pole: is that OK for this set-up? and; 2) is a stereo (3-pole) lead OK for the Escort to Aux1 connection? These seem to be OK but...

I really appreciate the time and effort you guys are putting in to help me - I feel like I'm getting somewhere. The links you sent are fantastic and I sent them to the custom audio/electronic installer I use since he works with your products (puts them into bikes and high-end cars). Steve

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John; Yep: TG charged $148 for #1317.

Tom: The zumo550 is stereo with a 3.5mm signal output plug. The Escort is mono, 3.5mm signal output. They include a power output cord using the conventional telephone(landline) squarish plug.

I note tha all my leads are 3-pole since they only have 2 (black) bands on the plug - so this could be part of the problem. This is confirmed by the picture of 1317 (2 bands/3 poles) vs the pix of 1286 (3 bands/4 poles)

Both Tom & John: I don't want cell phone use. My Kenwood TH6, with its PTT work fine through Aux4. Sometimes I'll use the TH6 as primary with the GPS as secondary (referring to muting/override issues) but I absolutely do not want VOX active, ever. So that appears to rule out using Aux3 for the Escort,

 

Connecting a radar into Aux3, will not activate the VOX in Aux4 - so that is not an issue.

 

 

and which would require a 1286 (4-pole)For most of my riding I use the Escort and the GPS - in which case having the Escort mute the GPS is a plus. And: working from a pic that a TG "tech expert" sent; inside my Active Plus box there isn't a (little silver loop of) wire so Aux 1 is not powered... And I haven't burnt the Escort using it.

 

 

Tom's explanation of ground loops causing amplifier failures was independent of whether Aux1 is powered or not. My own Autocom does not have a powered Aux1 but I understand that all units with a powered Aux1 are clearly marked.

 

So I like John's ideas - of running the zumo through 1317, port A, into Aux2 and running the Escort through Aux1. The only questions these leave is: 1) 1317 is a 3-pole: is that OK for this set-up? and; 2) is a stereo (3-pole) lead OK for the Escort to Aux1 connection? These seem to be OK but...

I really appreciate the time and effort you guys are putting in to help me - I feel like I'm getting somewhere. The links you sent are fantastic and I sent them to the custom audio/electronic installer I use since he works with your products (puts them into bikes and high-end cars). Steve

 

The #1317 will be fine into Aux2 - incidentally the TG website has this priced at $62.

A stereo lead + part #1285 (priced at $49) should be OK into Aux1 but note Bobs comment about using a mono cable #1294 (priced at $10 at TG) or similar.

 

I'll let Tom correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Regards,

 

John

 

 

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Active PLUS CONNECTIONS (all starting from the tip of the plug)

 

Aux 1 & 3 are similar in as much as they are mono to both ears

 

Aux 1 (tip) Mic+, Speaker+, 9 volts, Earth

Aux 3 (tip) Mic+, Speaker+, VOX, Earth

 

4 pole plugs ---- ----- ----- ----- connects correctly

3 pole plugs ---- ----- ------------- shorts vox or 9 volts to earth

 

 

Aux 2 is different and is stereo

 

Aux 2 (tip) Right Spk+, Left Spk+, Mic+, Earth

4 pole plugs ---- ----- ----- ----- connect correctly

3 pole plugs ---- ----- ------------ shorts Mic+ and earth

 

 

If you plug a three pole connector into one of these four pole sockets then the extended earth of the three pole plug shorts the contact that’s next to the earth to the earth. For example on

 

Aux 1 you world short 9 volts to earth (unless you disable to 9 volts out)

Aux 2 you would short the mix+ to earth, not a problem

Aux 3 you would short the VOX to earth, causing the VOX to Aux 4 to transmit the bike to bike radio

 

If people read the instructions that come with the product, they do warn about using the correct type leads.

 

 

Autocom UK Tom

 

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Steve

 

Finally back into the office and have checked the data sheets for you

 

Plug your part 1317 into your Aux 2 socket; this now leaves you with two sockets (A & B)

 

Plug a part 1293 into socket A (the other end of 1293 has a mono 3.5mm plug for your Escort)

 

Plug a part 1314 into socket B (the 1314 is isolated and has a stereo 3.5 plug for your Zumo)

 

If you want to plug your escort into Aux 1 then use a 1293 (3.5mm 3 pole to 3.5mm 2 pole non isolated lead into socket A of a 1282 which is isolated and plugs into Aux 1 if the 9 volts output is disabled (which you say you have already done.

 

 

Autocom UK Tom

 

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Tom; I spoke with a woman at TG who seemed to know the product, and in ten minutes we covered more ground than in the many hours over the 9 months after I bought it. She recommended this: Zumo;1307; 1317 A; Aux2. Escort; 1293 (*1-pole side @ the Escort), 1285 A (or B), Aux 3.

(She disagreed with your idea of both into 1317 into Aux2, said that 1314 is part of 1317, and her description of the 1293 poles is also different but I think the idea is the same.)

I'm still bothered by the possibility of triggering the BtB VOX (Aux4) with Aux 3, but I'll just have to try it and see.

So I paid them $71 for 1285 and 1293 and in a week I'll try it out!

Steve

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Tom; I spoke with a woman at TG who seemed to know the product, and in ten minutes we covered more ground than in the many hours over the 9 months after I bought it. She recommended this: Zumo;1307; 1317 A; Aux2. Escort; 1293 (*1-pole side @ the Escort), 1285 A (or B), Aux 3.

(She disagreed with your idea of both into 1317 into Aux2, said that 1314 is part of 1317

 

Brave of the lady to disagree with the boss! I think that Tom will understand where he needs to focus some training for the new distributor - even the best products still need to wired in correctly.

 

, and her description of the 1293 poles is also different but I think the idea is the same.)

I'm still bothered by the possibility of triggering the BtB VOX (Aux4) with Aux 3, but I'll just have to try it and see.

So I paid them $71 for 1285 and 1293 and in a week I'll try it out!

Steve

 

Tom's solution is the simplest one and will mix the music and radar into Aux2. The isolated #1314 will goes into the non-isolated socket for the 1317, thus providing the necessary protection for the Zumo.

 

The 1293 + 1285 should go into Aux 1 since your Active plus does not have this socket powered - this will mute the music when the radar goes off.

Using Aux 3 might set the Vox off - it will only take a minute of your time to confirm this if you need to.

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This is an aside for any moderators out there regarding the title for this thread (I'm not sure if this is even possible).

 

Given that this may well turn out to be one of the most useful and informative threads anywhwere on Autocom issues and solutions. And given the fact that Tom (Autocom himself) has personally put the bulk of the information here, it seems like it would be a nice gesture to rename the thread. In fairness, anyone simply reading the title and seeing the number of posts may well conclude (incorrectly) that there's a whole lot of Autocom bashing going on in here. Again I suspect the OP might concur with this at this point too.

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I second the motion.

 

It has been very advantageous to have input from the source and would do justice to update the subject of this thread.

 

All in favor? (with the OP's permission of course)

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This is an aside for any moderators out there regarding the title for this thread (I'm not sure if this is even possible). it seems like it would be a nice gesture to rename the thread.

At the normal forum moderator level it's not possible. If one of the sys admins could 'poke' the db to change it, I can't say. Call your request to Russell's attention, he would likely know.

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CoarsegoldKid

Why not create a new thread with just the information needed to make the systems work together. Part numbers, reasons, and wiring diagrams in one concise write up.

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This is an aside for any moderators out there regarding the title for this thread (I'm not sure if this is even possible). it seems like it would be a nice gesture to rename the thread.

At the normal forum moderator level it's not possible. If one of the sys admins could 'poke' the db to change it, I can't say. Call your request to Russell's attention, he would likely know.

 

Done.

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Silver Surfer/AKAButters
Why not create a new thread with just the information needed to make the systems work together. Part numbers, reasons, and wiring diagrams in one concise write up.

 

Won't that exist on Autocomm's site? Perhaps just link.

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The title was obviously considered appropriate at the time the originator (Steve) posted it, so perhaps Steve would like to conclude whether or not he is fully satisfied with the outcome, which I think is now the case.

 

Most regular readers will probably understand how simple it is to become frustrated with a problem like this, and appreciate that the good thing about a great forum like this is that it helps generate feedback that others can see and benefit from. I have!

 

As for leaving or removing the title; THANKS Al and all those who second his kind gesture, I can see that others may easily misunderstand the reality of the situation from the title, but I will leave it to others to vote for whatever they feel is right.

 

Autocom products themselves are very easy to understand and use, that is until you consider the MASSIVE amount of accessory choice so many people all over the world want to use with them. We try to oblige people with their wishes but this generates a considerable amount of accessories, some of which can be used in various ways. Deciding which accessory to use and which way is best to use it can become confusing, especially to the inexperienced.

 

In some ways it is ridiculous that the solution to Steve’s concern was not made perfectly obvious and easy to find, and even if the solution can be found in various websites, the path to it may not have been so obvious.

 

I am sure TopGear would have wanted Steve to have nothing but a fantastic Autocom experience, as they have provided for many others in the past. It is not always easy to fully understand what someone actually wants over the phone, which is why Autocom UK prefers to supply our products via experienced local dealers who provide expert, local, hands on, over the counter sales and support, rather than remote supply via mail order etc.

 

From my point of view whatever the title, it got the attention of others who could help.

 

In hindsight the title was perhaps wrong, but had a positive result not have been concluded quickly for Steve then perhaps his title may have been appropriate? That’s probably where Steve was at the time?

 

I have always known, and this highlights the fact, that the best way for anyone to buy a technical product like an Autocom system is through a local Autocom specialist dealer, someone who supplies and supports the products on a regular basis and understands what each customer wants, has the stock and experience to supply it, and fit it if required. If the customer has any questions they can easily go back to the local dealer who can then see any problems and sort it out there and then quickly. Sometimes it may be that the next day the customer suddenly realises something that they didn’t know or understand the day or two before?

 

Autocom returns through authorised dealers sales are virtually ZERO. Autocom returns due to remote selling would be much more than the 0.1% that it is if it were not for our dedicated support program.

 

Remote selling can sometimes lead to frustration before problems are fully understood and sorted. A solid structured NATIONAL dealer network to supply and support the brand, (like we have in the UK and many other countries) is by far the best way and this is why Autocom customers benefit from buying from local experienced dealers rather than by mail order. Our aim is to develop a much stronger national dealer supply and support chain in the USA, and we are speaking with several USA distributors who have the national reach and ability to help us provide that.

 

The more customers drive the demands for mail order, the more they weaken the desire for your local dealers to stock and support the brand.

 

If you want Autocom supplied locally to you, so that you have expert local support, then think about pestering your local dealer to supply it for you before you jump at a bargain someone is offering on eBay etc? Your investment through your local dealer provides you with the service and support you deserve, which cannot always be provided from someone 1000 miles away.

 

SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL DEALER, SO THAT THEY CAN SUPPORT YOU. If your local dealer doesn’t stock the brand you want, then pester them to do so, and they will be more likely to do so for you. Otherwise MR SMITH, it is inevitable that the MATRIX will soon consume you, and gone will be forever that good old fashioned local service that you used to enjoy so much. COME BACK Fernando!

 

There, now you’ve got me going on about one of my pet hates?

 

If you do remote buy via mail order, you cannot expect the same level of hands on expertise that most of us gain from buying via our local experienced dealers. However at least with Autocom you can be sure that many others will do their very best to help you sort any issues out

 

Maybe we can now think about this as how ridiculously good Autocom is?

 

Autocom UK Tom

 

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Once again Tom nails it: "Again" referring to his efficiently helping me find a solution, which hasn't ben implemented but I'm pretty confident I'll be able to report that I'm all set and happy in a few days. 1) When I started the thread I was extremely frustrated, feeling like I was without recourse, and clueless about finding any sort of answer or resolution other than junking an expensive purchase. 2) As far as I could find out all local dealers had disappeared: If there was a dealer near me I would have definitely supported them and I agree with Tom: Local dealers are the key to satisfying use. 3) While I made lots of phone and e-mail contacts, and one face-to-face over a 13 month period, I couldn't get my unit sorted out - I don't know why, but one short phone conversation and the good advice/support I received from this forum seems to have given me both the parts and the directions I needed. Plus some AutoCom diagrams from Tom that are both clearer and slightly different from what I got with my purchase! That unexpected and protracted difficulty is what I deemed ridiculous. 4) I am a forum newbie but I fully support the need to treat everyone with respect, in any forum. Not having a local contact, being told the distributor was changing, and felt very ridiculous at the time, and now it also seems quite appropriate to change the thread title.

 

If I had known of the effectiveness and patient support offered by Tom and all the others herein I would have simply asked for help, and much earlier. So; thanks and once I rip my bike apart and get the proper leads installed I'll Let you know. Steve

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TomB; I installed the new leads per your instructions":

Escort, 1293, 1285(A port), Aux 1

Zumo, regular 3 pole lead, 1317(port A), Aux 2.

It works! Thank you very much!

I have three remaining questions:

1) My earplug speakers got very hot - in fact I killed one side of them (iPod, not custom molds!) What can I do to prevent that?

2) When I experimented with plugging my iPod into 1317B with a 3 pole lead, the volume on my zumo (1317A) dropped. I don't want to use Aux 3 since I don't have a 4-pole lead and I don't want to trigger the VOX. Is there a fix other than buying a 4-pole led for Aux 3? ()The iPod is totally a "what if" that I don't expect to use.

3) Can I cut and cap (since it's hardwired into the Active PLus box) the passenger intercom lead without affecting anything. I won't use it and that would be less bulk/mess under my saddle.

Thanks, Steve

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Autocom products themselves are very easy to understand and use, that is until you consider the MASSIVE amount of accessory choice so many people all over the world want to use with them. We try to oblige people with their wishes but this generates a considerable amount of accessories, some of which can be used in various ways. Deciding which accessory to use and which way is best to use it can become confusing, especially to the inexperienced.

 

Tom has nailed it. The fact is, that Autocom got an undeserved reputation for being complicated, simply because the design team made it capable of so much. So many features. So many cables for oddball stuff. And if you didn't know how to configure one and which cables to ignore and which ones to focus on, it looked unbelievably complex.

 

COME BACK Fernando!

Thanks for the vote of confidence, Tom. But those days of 125 different accessory cables/adapters/connectors for Autocom systems are over. Therefore, with these new systems that have just been announced, the average dealer is going to be able to configure one more simply and easily than I ever could. I believe you've only got something like 20 possible cables to choose from now. The vast knowledge I gained from you and from the folks at Top Gear, plus what I learned from helping my customers, is going to fade away like an old treasure map. And while I enjoyed being the "go to" person for a lot of configuration questions, and I LOVED being able to help my customers and dozens of people on this board, I'm a lot happier for Autocom because these new systems are more capable and simpler, meaning there will be many, many more people who are connected and enjoying music, radar warnings, GPS directions, phone conversations, B2B conversations and, oh yes, INTERCOM!

 

Best of luck with your search for a new distributor. If I worked at one, I'd be all over them telling them how important a product line like this is to the U.S. market.

 

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"Best of luck with your search for a new distributor. If I worked at one, I'd be all over them telling them how important a product line like this is to the U.S. market."

 

Yep.

Almost every time when the customer lists what they want, and the speeds they want it done at, there is one choice.

I'm still "wired" by cables w/"old" Autocom because it works at all speeds and weather condtions.

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1) My earplug speakers got very hot - in fact I killed one side of them (iPod, not custom molds!) What can I do to prevent that?

2) When I experimented with plugging my iPod into 1317B with a 3 pole lead, the volume on my zumo (1317A) dropped. I don't want to use Aux 3 since I don't have a 4-pole lead and I don't want to trigger the VOX. Is there a fix other than buying a 4-pole led for Aux 3? ()The iPod is totally a "what if" that I don't expect to use.

3) Can I cut and cap (since it's hardwired into the Active PLus box) the passenger intercom lead without affecting anything. I won't use it and that would be less bulk/mess under my saddle.

Thanks, Steve

 

 

 

1) How did you connect your iPod speakers to your Autocom? I would have thought that using a part 1187 or 1188 would have been OK, but please remember that the IPod speakers were not designed to work in high noise conditions like on a bike and you may well have over-driven them to compensate for the helmet noise?

 

2) The load of your iPod headset into socket B is causing the volume of your Zumo in socket A to reduce. You could consider this method; use the standard stereo music lead that came with the kit between your Zumo and socket A of your 1317, then use a 1314 between your IPod and socket B of the 1317

 

3) if you carefully REMOVE THE LABLE OF THE Active, you will find two screws. Remove these and you can then unplug the passenger headset lead from the unit. Replace the lid and two screws and that should solve this for you, in an easy and safe way and so that you can replace it at anytime later if required.

 

Steve, I am now tied up with other business matters and will be out of the office for the next week or two, so can you please contact www.enquiries@autocom.co.uk for any further support..

 

Autocom UK Tom

 

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It feels so anti-climatic!

I've had a few good days with my zumo and Escort working just fine through my AutoCom Active Plus.... All it took was the proper leads and clear instructions. I must again support Tom's contention that we need local dealers and they need our support - sure would have prevented all of my issues.

Many hearty thanks to TomB - "Mr AutoCom". Steve-o

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