Engine Break-In

[Twisties]

Well I'm asking this in hopes that some of the folks with genuine engineering experience will chime in on the principles involved, and some of the mechanics will talk about what they've seen. Also, what about warranties? With modern systems it seems the dealer could read your peak rpm at first service.

 

The question: There is a lot of info LIKE THIS out there on the internet. How much is fact, how much is fiction? Why do most new vehicle manufactures recommend long easy break-in periods with rpm limitations if this is true? Is break-in really all about the rings? What, if anything is different about acceleration, cruising, and deceleration for the rings?

 

For most of us, me at least, I think we get experience with far too few engines to really reach any meaningful conclusions. My own experience is this: I've never had an automotive engine use any significant amount of oil in it's early life, certainly not enough to need topping up between oil changes. They've all been broken-in according manufacturer recommendation.

 

The two RTs seem to defy the new logic here (although it could be argued that in terms of the new logic the differences came far too late to make a difference): Our dealer recommended gradually exceeding the 4000 rpm limit beginning about 200-300 miles into break-in. I did that, while Sharon rigidly adhered to the 4000 rpm limit until the 600 miles was up. My bike uses oil and hers does not.

 

Jan

[AZKomet]

Well Jan, i have never followed break in procedures on the newer machines. I have been told to "ride it" but not red line it all the time.

 

My boxers have been somewhat the same philosophy although I really never have flogged them like my inline 4's.

 

My K bikes and FJR was 110 from the get go...(track of course ) with no adherence to the book. And although I am not an engineer I am a rider.....so I go with my gut with machines.

 

Use of oil? That is a mystery to me as well. I have went on rides and people have asked me for oil, same machines, same distances and all the while my RT did not use a drop. So dunno......life is a mystery at times, especially those quirky R bikes.

[David]

There's a direct connection between obsessively checking oil levels and how much oil your bike uses.

[Calvin (no socks)]

Jan, I work at an import dealer... we used to advise a break-in procedure...30 years ago... No longer necessary.. Modern manufacturing techniques and cleanliness make it moot. We have many high mileage vehicles taken apart, for seals, leaks etc...with no perceptible wear....

 

I still personally break in every thing I own...weedeaters, chainsaw, snowmobile...etc.

[Silver Surfer/AKAButters]

There's a direct connection between obsessively checking oil levels and how much oil your bike uses.

 

Agree. I also believe that the tolerance stacks on an individual bike, have a lot more to do with oil consumption than any impact from not rigidly adhering to a brea-in recommendation. As you know, all machined parts have variances. If they did not, they would likely not be economicaly feasible to build.

[smiller]

I'd follow the manufacturer's recommendations, plus the classic advice to not baby it and try to vary speeds as much as possible. But I'd agree that it probably isn't going to matter much with a modern engine, particularly the Nicasil oilheads/hexheads... those bores and rings are hard as a rock.

 

Regarding oil consumption... much talked about, but the bottom line with these bikes is just don't worry about it. That's hard I know, but anything else is needless torture. My bike used oil for about 30-40k miles before it started to slow down, and now at over 100k oil consumption is just about nil. I think that's better than low oil consumption when new and high oil consumption at 100k...

[Twisties]

There's a direct connection between obsessively checking oil levels and how much oil your bike uses.

 

I check both our bikes at the same times. They run virtually all the same miles. One uses, one hardly need be checked at all.

[David]

There's a direct connection between obsessively checking oil levels and how much oil your bike uses.

 

I check both our bikes at the same times. They run virtually all the same miles. One uses, one hardly need be checked at all.

 

What you might try is not adding any to the bike that "uses" oil. Sometimes these strange engines find their own level, and it has little to do with what the sight glass says. I don't understand it, but it could have something to do with how it's ridden (the whole churning of higher RPMs and such).

 

If you can see any oil in the sight glass on the sidestand, hit the road, baby.

[krussell]

Well I'm asking this in hopes that some of the folks with genuine engineering experience

 

Great news Jan, the engineers who designed and built your bike have already provided their thoughts on the matter. On about page 82 or so of your owners manual they describe how they think your specific engine should be broken in.

 

Some would have you believe that this information is somehow misguided, that there is a conspiracy by the manufacturer of your vehicle to have you incorrectly break in your vehicle, etc. Think carefully though about who knows best, a mechanic, a web site author, a salesperson, the parts person, or the folks who actually designed and manufactured your machine?

[T__]

Jan, you will probably get as many different responses on this one as you would to an oil thread.. Most based on,, I did or do this & ain’t blowed one up yet.. Probably not a big deal as long as you don’t abuse it during beak in..

 

My personal opinion (& that is all it is) , is to simply follow the manufacturers advise & follow their recommendation.. They didn’t just make their break in procedure up,, it is more than likely based on their engine department engineering data & long term durability testing..

 

Personally,, I pretty well follow the factory recommended break in procedure but add some of my own based on my automotive engineering background..

 

I pretty well stick to the BMW’s RPM limits for break in but use ever bit of that often.. I like a lot of varying throttle & varied engine loads with LOTS of closed throttle decels.. No freeway during break in & LOTS of shifting.. No high heat producing stop & go traffic & no partial engine heating trips..

I like to use twisty roads & lots of log up & down hill situations to get long closed throttle down hill decels.. Probably my biggest concern is constant throttle/constant load so I strive to keep the throttle moving & the RPM/loads constantly changing.. I always plan my break in roads & timing to make sure I have roads & conditions that promote proper riding conditions for good break in..

 

Remember you are breaking in not only the engine rings,, bearing,, & valve gear but also the trans & final drive.. Probably of the lot the final drive is the easiest to harm during improper break in..

 

Twisty

 

[JayW]

I suspect that the oil consumption differences between your two bikes can be attributed to tolerance and assembly variances at the factory rather than how they were broken it.

 

But what if I am wrong? I am not an engineer, but the recommendations in the owner's manual were devised by the very engineers who designed and built my engine. Therefore, it makes sense to me to not second-guess them. I cannot know if that is why my own RT consumes essentially no oil, but it might be.

 

Jay

[upflying]

It sounds like break-in advice is similar to oil and tire advice, everyone has an opinion.

I do have somewhat of a personal expereince. '06 Harley Road King Police entered service without following the break-in recommendations. Bascially ran hard right out of the dealership. Rider complained of excessive oil comsumption after 12,000 mi..

Bike returned to HD for new cylinders, rings, valve guides.

Consensus was the lack of a proper break in.

Me? I like to break it in properly.

[tallman]

Anecdotal, but based on hundreds of beemers.

The ones broken in per manufacturer recommendations, in general, are "smoother" feeling with regard to shifting and engine vibration.

They seem to use less oil, often none.

I'm speaking only of boxers here.

But, I've seen babied bikes that burned oil until given a good high speed, high rev dose of asphalt.

Whenever I ask an owner how he broke it in, the reply is usually what I expect based on how the bike rides and what the oil usage indicates.

But, all empirical feedback.

Based on this, I would follow manufacturer directions.

[eddd]

There's a direct connection between obsessively checking oil levels and how much oil your bike uses.

 

I check both our bikes at the same times. They run virtually all the same miles. One uses, one hardly need be checked at all.

 

 

 

Since Larry and Tom have declared 2009 the year of being nice... I'll just send a friendly wave.

 

 

 

 

 

Dang...this being nice is really hard!

[Twisties]

Anecdotal, but based on hundreds of beemers.

The ones broken in per manufacturer recommendations, in general, are "smoother" feeling with regard to shifting and engine vibration.

They seem to use less oil, often none.

I'm speaking only of boxers here.

But, I've seen babied bikes that burned oil until given a good high speed, high rev dose of asphalt.

Whenever I ask an owner how he broke it in, the reply is usually what I expect based on how the bike rides and what the oil usage indicates.

But, all empirical feedback.

Based on this, I would follow manufacturer directions.

 

Sharon's bike is by far the smoother running bike too.

[T__]

Another thought or way to look at the break in of a new motorcycle is how the dealer handles the pre-delivery break in..

 

As an example__

My local Harley dealer puts his new saleable bikes out in front of the shop every morning & brings them in every night.. They start the bikes & ride them out for a total of about 400’ morning & 400’ at night.. They do this through hot weather as well as cold damp weather.. Some of those bikes are in inventory for 5-6 months or more before sold..

The local BMW dealer puts his saleable bikes out in front of his shop also,, difference his staff pushes those bike out front & back in at night..

 

Now given your choice what bike would you rather buy?

 

 

Twisty

 

[smiller]

My local Harley dealer puts his new saleable bikes out in front of the shop every morning & brings them in every night.. They start the bikes & ride them out for a total of about 400’ morning & 400’ at night.. They do this through hot weather as well as cold damp weather.. Some of those bikes are in inventory for 5-6 months or more before sold..

[T__]

Before a person buys a bike from a dealer & that has been in stock for a long time it might pay to get there early in the morning & see how the bikes are moved it into the days position..

 

I have talked with the owner of the local Harley dealer about their rather poor practice of mis-treating pre sales bikes & get the so-what look abrupt won’t hurt anything answer..

 

I agree is a good way to describe it..

 

Twisty

 

[sardineone]

Jan, sorry I'm not an engineer but, I am mechanically inclined and have broken in many machines over the years including my R12ST.

I pretty well stick to the BMW’s RPM limits for break in but use ever bit of that often.. I like a lot of varying throttle & varied engine loads with LOTS of closed throttle decels.. No freeway during break in & LOTS of shifting.. No high heat producing stop & go traffic & no partial engine heating trips..

I like to use twisty roads & lots of log up & down hill situations to get long closed throttle down hill decels.. Probably my biggest concern is constant throttle/constant load so I strive to keep the throttle moving & the RPM/loads constantly changing.. I always plan my break in roads & timing to make sure I have roads & conditions that promote proper riding conditions for good break in..

+1

The above I believe from my experience to be right on for the first 600 miles. After the 600 mile service I rode my 1200 as I pleased with no restrictions because BMW had none. As a matter of fact it's probably important NOT to baby the engine after the 600 mile service if you want it fully run in. Even with some exuberant use of your boxer engine from time to time, it takes a long time (12,000 miles or more) to get full power. BTW my R1200 has historically used little oil. Just don't add if the sight glass is 1/2 full. That guards from overfilling due to oil trapped in the oil cooler when not hot enough to open the thermostat.

[swfraley]

With horizontally-opposed, air-cooled airplane engines, the procedure is to run new engines wide open on mineral oil all the time for the first {some number} hours. The reasoning is that this prevents glazing of the cylinders.

 

So, they're always at a constant rpm and a constant load. I don't see why that would be bad for a motorcycle but recommended for an airplane.

[Boffin]

With horizontally-opposed, air-cooled airplane engines, the procedure is to run new engines wide open on mineral oil all the time for the first {some number} hours. The reasoning is that this prevents glazing of the cylinders.

 

So, they're always at a constant rpm and a constant load. I don't see why that would be bad for a motorcycle but recommended for an airplane.

 

Well for a start, aero engines are low-revving, high capacity, low-power (relatively)output engines that are designed to run at a more-or-less constant RPM that is contained in a narrow operating range.

 

BMW boxers are (compared to aero engies) high-revving, low capacity, high-power (relatively) engines that are designed to operate over a wide RPM range.

 

Andy

[T__]

With horizontally-opposed, air-cooled airplane engines, the procedure is to run new engines wide open on mineral oil all the time for the first {some number} hours. The reasoning is that this prevents glazing of the cylinders.

 

So, they're always at a constant rpm and a constant load. I don't see why that would be bad for a motorcycle but recommended for an airplane.

 

Stuart, what RPM would that be? I didn’t realize airplane engines could operate at real high RPM’s.. If you applied that to modern motorcycles that could be very high RPM’s,, with a new BMW boxer that would be 8000 RPM’s..

 

I’m not sure how the aircraft power curve vs propeller loading works but would part throttle on an aircraft be like lugging a motorcycle engine in a higher gear?

 

Is there any cooling issues with aircraft engines at part throttle,, like maybe over-cooling at part throttle?

 

Obviously the aircraft engine manufacturer have a reason for their break in procedure same as BMW has a reason for the break in procedure for their engines & entire drive trains..

 

 

Twisty

 

[David]

You're typically aiming for a specific RPM with an air-cooled reciprocating aircraft engine. Power levels are achieved by varying fuel amount. Adjustments to propeller pitch are essentially the equivalent of the gears in a transmission, and how you match RPM to different "bites."

 

The fuel is a MAJOR source of cooling. You can vary fuel delivery by the slightest amount and see the impact on exhaust temperatures.

[tallman]

OK, so how should I break in my airboat?

[upflying]

A typical horizontally opposed 4 cylinder aircraft engine has 320 cubic inches, 160 horsepower and operates at 2500 rpm under maximum power. The propeller on this engine is solidly mounted to the cranksahft. Faster RPM and the tips of the prop exceed the speed of sound the propeller becomes inefficient.

Engines that operate at higher RPM must have reduction gearboxes to reduce prop speed.

I was aware these engines use mineral oil for break in.

 

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

I'm surprised nobody yet has mentioned RDF's wear-in guide here on BMWST. It's accessible from the MC/FAQ link at the top of this page. It's a bit lengthy, but IMO pretty sound with regard to break-in procedure. The principles he describes are in agreement with the website that Jan linked to in the OP; the difference is that RDF's proposed break-in procedure operates within the RPM/mileage bounds of what the owner's manual dictates.

 

As Rich suggested early in this thread, the tolerance range on part sizes means that an optimally broken-in machine (with less-than-optimal assembly tolerances) may still end up burning more oil than one that was broken in in a more casual manner, so one should not draw strong conclusions from a comparison of only two machines. But it certainly can't hurt to sway the odds in your favor by doing the best break-in you're able to do.

 

 

[tallman]

Mitch,

I thought that I would add soemthing by offering to break in any member's bike for them.

 

Least we can do for each other.

[Bullett]

Actually, Mitch, I tried to break mine in the RDF way. I remembered that it was something I saw on this site, but I couldn't remember where. As my hubby pointed out, it seems to have resulted in a fine running engine.

 

 

[Mister Tee]

I followed the manufacturer's recommendation to a "Tee", and my engine uses no oil at all, whatsoever. I break all my motors in that way, and after they are broken in, I ride, drive or fly the piss out of them.

[4wheeldog]

I have 3 bits of information that are based on some logic, and have worked for me over the years.

 

1) New parts have a tendency, because of surface finish and tolerances, to heat up more than those that have worn in properly. New motors (And final drives, and transmissions, for that matter), benefit from heat cycling. Bringing the unit up to operating temperature, then allowing it to cool somewhat before repeat cycling accomplishes this without parts smearing or overheating. Cycles can be extended, doubling run time each cycle, starting with 15 miles for the fresh motor or drive component.

 

2) Rings wear in from load......That translates to full throttle, somewhere near the torque peak. Nothing in particular is gained by higher RPM beyond the torque peak, which approximates the point of highest cylinder pressure. The engine should be subjected to at least a few moments of this condition each time it is run after a couple of hundred miles until it is fully run in, and no additional improvement in oil consumption can be noted. RPM without an open throttle does not generate elevated cylinder pressure, and therefore does little to seat rings. The most effective way to apply this high load condition long term is to ride briskly up a very long, very steep hill. This is worthwhile if oil consumption remains high after several thousand miles of wear in.

 

3) This one may be more religion than science, but: Mechanical units generate a fair amount of metallic junk during the wear in process.........A lubrication change early in the wear in cycle gets this junk out of the process, and is therefore probably worthwhile. 200 miles may be anal, but certainly not harmful.

[Penforhire]

I always figured just about the worst thing to do was constant RPM break-in for a car or bike. I can see it for an airplane engine because of its normal operation. But no way for a normally geared vehicle that starts and stop regularly!

 

I notice most modern manufacturers do away with so-called "break-in" oil so an early oil change makes a lot of sense. Note this is NOT universal as my '08 Honda S2000 still does use a special break-in additive in the factory oil fill, so highly advised NOT to change it early.

[Mister Tee]

For what it's worth, years ago I did work for a brief time in the engine design field, for a company that did outsource R&D for smaller engine manufacturers (like Rotax). This was my first job out of college, and didn't work there for very long so I'm no expert by any means, but here is a writeup I did for one of the sportbike boards on which I moderate.

 

http://www.gsxr.com/showthread.php?t=51349

[Boffin]

A lubrication change early in the wear in cycle gets this junk out of the process, and is therefore probably worthwhile. 200 miles may be anal, but certainly not harmful.

 

New BMWs come with low-viscosity break-in mineral oil in the sump, hence the low rev limit until the 600 mile service and no limit thereafter.

 

If you do the 200 mile oil change, replace it with similar oil to change again at the 600 mile point.

 

Andy

[sardineone]

I notice most modern manufacturers do away with so-called "break-in" oil so an early oil change makes a lot of sense. Note this is NOT universal as my '08 Honda S2000 still does use a special break-in additive in the factory oil fill, so highly advised NOT to change it early.

Can anyone conclusively answer if the BMW R12's have break-in oil from the factory or dealer? I was lead to believe that it is used and I didn't drain the oil before the 600 mile service. Otherwise I too would have been inclined to an early change during the run-in.

[T__]

A lubrication change early in the wear in cycle gets this junk out of the process, and is therefore probably worthwhile. 200 miles may be anal, but certainly not harmful.

 

New BMWs come with low-viscosity break-in mineral oil in the sump, hence the low rev limit until the 600 mile service and no limit thereafter.

 

If you do the 200 mile oil change, replace it with similar oil to change again at the 600 mile point.

 

Andy

 

 

Andy, that is contradictory to a letter I received from BMWNA.. Maybe BMW motorcycles exported to USA differ from motorcycles sold in the UK..

 

In response to a question I sent to BMWNA when I bought my 09 1200RT about type of break-in oil used from BMW OEM.. Their response back was (quote)-- “All BMW motorcycles imported by the USA come from the factory with petroleum based Castrol oil (20W50) in the crankcases”

 

Twisty

 

 

 

[Boffin]

A lubrication change early in the wear in cycle gets this junk out of the process, and is therefore probably worthwhile. 200 miles may be anal, but certainly not harmful.

 

New BMWs come with low-viscosity break-in mineral oil in the sump, hence the low rev limit until the 600 mile service and no limit thereafter.

 

If you do the 200 mile oil change, replace it with similar oil to change again at the 600 mile point.

 

Andy

 

 

Andy, that is contradictory to a letter I received from BMWNA.. Maybe BMW motorcycles exported to USA differ from motorcycles sold in the UK..

 

In response to a question I sent to BMWNA when I bought my 09 1200RT about type of break-in oil used from BMW OEM.. Their response back was (quote)-- “All BMW motorcycles imported by the USA come from the factory with petroleum based Castrol oil (20W50) in the crankcases”

 

Twisty

 

 

 

Well your informationis newer than mine, I was told my 2002 R1150RT came with straight 30 oil without a complex additive package. That however was from a dealer tech who used to work for Castrol at the time they were doing the oil analysis on the R259 engine. It may have been out of date when he first told me.

 

Andy

[4wheeldog]

A lubrication change early in the wear in cycle gets this junk out of the process, and is therefore probably worthwhile. 200 miles may be anal, but certainly not harmful.

 

New BMWs come with low-viscosity break-in mineral oil in the sump, hence the low rev limit until the 600 mile service and no limit thereafter.

 

If you do the 200 mile oil change, replace it with similar oil to change again at the 600 mile point.

 

Andy

 

I have asked 2 different dealer's maintenance techs, and their maintenance dept managers, and have been told that BMW does not use anything other than BMW mineral 20/50 in their new boxer motors. No special low vis oil, no additives, other than whatever is in their assembly lube. Your opinion is often repeated, but I have not been able to verify it with anyone in authority.

[Green RT]

...My bike used oil for about 30-40k miles before it started to slow down, and now at over 100k oil consumption is just about nil. I think that's better than low oil consumption when new and high oil consumption at 100k...

Isn't there a Brad Pitt movie with that theme. Maybe RT's start out old and get younger with time.