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ignition switch swap


Mulepick

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This topic was dealt with in 07 but the link provided is no longer good. I need to swap out the mechanical part of my ig switch as it sticks. What's the deal with these "one use" bolts? Anyone figured a way to reuse? Alternatives to these things? Alternatives to swapping switch mechanism (as that's now 3 keys I would have to carry 1)ig 2)bags 3)tank/seat)?

 

Tks,

 

Bob

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Bob, about the only way I know to do it is to remove the fork bridge then drill those serreted switch screws out.. As far as re-using the serrated screws? That isn’t possible if you drill them out.. Not sure if you can buy new ones (should be able to) but you can use regular screws you just won’t have the anti-tamper feature (no big deal as it still difficult to remove them)

 

I use my mill to precision drill those screws out but if you are doing them by hand be careful so you don’t slip & drill wide.. A 4mm (5/32”) drill first then an 8mm (5/16”)to pop the heads off..

 

 

Twisty

 

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Thanks. Figuring it would come to that, and after trying all my stripped bolt removal techniques, I started drilling them out. Thankfully they seem to be Al or something soft. I'm in the process of removing the bridge now to make drilling easier. So 8mm will take the heads off w/o messing with the threads? I was just going to use the biggest bit that would fit in the outer hole and go slow.

 

B

 

Bob, about the only way I know to do it is to remove the fork bridge then drill those serreted switch screws out.. As far as re-using the serrated screws? That isn’t possible if you drill them out.. Not sure if you can buy new ones (should be able to) but you can use regular screws you just won’t have the anti-tamper feature (no big deal as it still difficult to remove them)

 

I use my mill to precision drill those screws out but if you are doing them by hand be careful so you don’t slip & drill wide.. A 4mm (5/32”) drill first then an 8mm (5/16”)to pop the heads off..

 

 

Twisty

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STOP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

no drilling is required to remove the ignition switch!!!!!!

 

 

the tread you were looking for was mine, i changed mine out not to long ago:

 

look closely on the bottom right of the lock cylinder. there is a tiny screw (Flathead) there, using a tiny screw driver like a jewlwers set, you can remove this screw, and the switch just pops out. no drilling required, takes about 30seconds.

 

if you need more details let me know.

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Ker, that small screw is for the (electric) lower part of the ign switch,, for the upper (mechanical) part you need to drill those security screws out..

 

I sure hope when he said mechanical part is he was referring to the upper non electrical part..

 

Twisty

 

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Ker,

I appreciate the concern. I did find your piece related to the little worm screw and yes, I do have mechanical problems that exist higher in the switch.

Twisty,

Started drilling tonight. The opening is just over 6mm so I don't know how you got an 8mm in there.

 

Bob

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Anton Largiader

I had a local shop drill some out for me and the bolt heads were still intact when they returned the parts. Just a center drill and EZ-out. The threads have blue Loctite on them.

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Twisty,

Started drilling tonight. The opening is just over 6mm so I don't know how you got an 8mm in there.

 

Bob

 

Bob, well that is strange.. Not sure what the deal is.. If your holes are just slightly over 6 mm then obviously you can’t use an 8mm drill..

 

I wrote 8mm in my PDA under “ign switch screw removal” so either the ones I drilled out were 8mm or I wrote it down incorrectly.. I will add a note to my info that it might be in error for the next time..

 

 

Twisty

 

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I believe those are 8mm screws. That said, an 8mm drill down to the start of the bolt shank will pop the head off as Twisty said, but you shouldn't go all the way down or you'll clean out all the threads in the steering head. A 6mm drill is about right as a tap drill for an 8 mm bolt.

 

I guess I just got lucky, but I was able to take a chizzel to the edge of the bolt head and tapping with a hammer, got the bolt to loosen up. Then I used a needle nose vice grips to spin it the rest of the way out. Put a couple of nicks on the underside of the steering head, but nothing serious. I used regular 8mm socket heads bolts to replace the switch assembly.

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