ABS fault light on R1100Rt

[Foxy]

I know this has been discussed some on the forum before but have had trouble finding it. My '96 R1100RT has been acting a little funny lately. It's been really cold here in northeast Tennessee of late. When I go to start the bike up in the morning, turn the ignition on and the ABS lights alternately flash alternately. If I turn the key off and then back on it seems to go through the usual start up routine where the ABS lights flash simultaneously. This happened when I first bought the bike from a friend but when I replaced the OEM Gel battery with an Odyssey it stopped. The Odyssey is still in the bike and is about 3 - 4 years old now. Haven't run a test of the battery yet but keep it regularly charged with a Battery Tender. Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

Foxy

[Boffin]

It is 90% probable that the ABS is failing on low-battery voltage. Cold weather increases the internal resistance of batteries leading to a slight drop in their output voltage and a slight drop is all that it takes for the 1100s to set a fault light. You could modify the bike as shown on the IBMWR website, or you could replace the battery (unnecessary in my opinion) or you could simply ignore it, ride the bike for a mile or so, then re-start it when the failure will have cleared.

 

Andy

[T__]

Foxy, it could be low initial battery voltage but at first thought it doesn’t seem it is..

 

If the fault showed up at engine cranking then I would definitely say it is low battery voltage or a problem cranking a cold engine..

 

Your problem seems to show up at initial key-on not during engine cranking so unless the battery is very low during initial key-on it doesn’t sound battery voltage related.. You would think if battery was that low at key-on it wouldn’t have enough power to crank the engine but anything is possible..

 

Does the system still fault at key-on if you leave the battery tender hooked up during initial key-on? If it doesn’t fault then,, than maybe your battery has an internal problem..

 

Next test would be to place a digital voltmeter on the battery posts during initial key-on to see if the battery voltage is staying above 11 volts at key-on.. If so then suspect something else is causing problem..

 

Does it help if you don’t touch the brakes during key-on? If so that takes some load off the battery by keeping the brake lights off..

 

In any case you can test your ABS system per the below to see if you have any codes stored..

 

 

 

-(Reading ABS 2 controller stored fault codes)-

“Make sure battery voltage is at or above 12 volts”

 

1)- First,, place analog voltmeter between pin #2 of ABS diagnostic connector & ground.. (don’t use a digital voltmeter as most won’t respond quick enough to show stored codes correctly)..

2)- Then,, turn ignition S/W on..

3)- Voltmeter should indicate (close to) a steady 11volts,, (IF) no fault codes are stored..

4)- If it has stored fault code(s) in the ABS controller it should show as voltage swings or drops.. To find ABS code or codes just count the voltmeter needle swings towards zero volts..

 

 

-(Here are the ABS 2 fault codes)-

 

1)- front pressure modulator..

2)- rear pressure modulator..

3)- front sensor..

4)- rear sensor..

5)- battery voltage low..

6)- ABS relay..

7)- ABS control unit..

8)- sensor gap front or rear..

 

 

-(Canceling of ABS 2 stored codes)-

 

1)- first,, ground pin 2 (of diagnostic connector) to clean chassis ground using a jumper wire..

2)- then,, turn (on) ignition S/W..

3)- then,, push (& hold) ABS button on dash (for at least) 8 seconds..

4)- then,, release the ABS button..

5)- then, switch ignition S/W off and remove ground wire from connector pin 2..

6)- then re-check for any stored fault codes..

 

 

Twisty

 

 

[Foxy]

Hey thanks for both speedy and helpful replies. I think I was a bit unclear in my description. It IS after I have cranked the engine that the ABS fault light alternately blinks, not when the switch is turned on. So I guess it could be cold weather related (been REALLY cold here the last week in Tennessee, single digits in the morning when I leave for work; teens and 20's when I leave work to go home. Think I will still run the battery tests suggested and report back when I know more. A very helpful membership and board. Thanks.

 

Foxy

[T__]

Foxy, if your fault shows up right after cranking then it is most likely low battery voltage during cranking..

 

Might be a battery problem due to sulfation or low CCA capacity or could just be excess starter draw due to thick engine oil or other..

 

By all means have the battery load tested & if it is OK then try thinner engine oil or maybe check for a starter related problem..

 

If it is just an occasional cold weather occurrence then maybe start the engine & ride a ways,, then stop & turn it off then restart it as a warm engine will crank over easier..

 

If you want to get more involved you can add an ABS initialization delay relay (that usually cures it permanently) or simply add an ABS initialization interrupt push button switch (the easiest to install & wire) then either hold the button down during cold cranking or just push the button to re-set the ABS after cold start & roll off..

 

 

Twisty

 

[VinnyR11]

Hey thanks for both speedy and helpful replies. I think I was a bit unclear in my description. It IS after I have cranked the engine that the ABS fault light alternately blinks, not when the switch is turned on. So I guess it could be cold weather related (been REALLY cold here the last week in Tennessee, single digits in the morning when I leave for work; teens and 20's when I leave work to go home. Think I will still run the battery tests suggested and report back when I know more. A very helpful membership and board. Thanks.

 

Foxy

 

For what it's worth, mine has been doing exactly that for 12 years in very cold weather. I think it's low voltage on initial cranking. When it does this, I just restart after riding a bit. There have been times when even on restart the light still blinks, and that has always been when the battery is ready for replacement.

 

I wouldn't worry about it.

 

Worth checking your battery, but if the bike turns over fine and the light goes out after driving a bit and a restart, then I think all is OK.

[kcscout]

Cold weather here, too. I have the problem if I plug in my gloves (Gerbing) before I start the bike. The bike starts fine (until today... another story for another thread if SEARCH doesn't deliver an answer), but once it's running the ABS goes into it's railroad crossing flash.

 

I have finally learned to wait to plug in my gloves until the bike is running. I write it off to the cold and the drain the gloves put on the system.

[tallman]

kc, Gerbings literature says to make sure you don't connect the items until after the bike is started and to disconnect before turning off.

I try to do this but don't always remeber, but I always turn of the controller, and most times remember to disconnect the power.

[kcscout]

kc, Gerbings literature says ...

Um, that would require reading - right?

 

Note to self: Step One: Read the manual.

[Foxy]

Hey, the last several posts about the ABS fault light sequence and having accessories plugged in (or not plugged in got me to thinking. I have a radar detector plugged into the accessory plug on the dash of the RT. If the detector is on maybe this is helping to draw down the charge to set off the fault light. Will check it tomorrow -- it will be a balmy 50 here tomorrow but should still be chilly when I leave for work -- and see what happens. Will report back.

 

Also, the bike seems to do fine otherwise -- will start up ok and once it has run a few minutes, if I turn it off and then back on the ABS fault sequence doesn't occur. Still plan to check the battery.

 

Again, mucho thanks.

 

Foxy