First service!

[Rlbol]

Well its first service for me! I have to say I am really enjoying my 96 1100rt!

Not knowing much of the history I wanted to start fresh! So I went pulled all the fairings off the bike. I adjusted the valves, Checked the play in the rocker arms, Synced the TB cleaned the KN air filter, replaced the alternator belt changed the oil and filter, changed the trans fluid. Nothing was to far off, other then me putting to much oil in!! I know it to! The last check I shouldn't have add anymore!! Everything went well but I have 4 large Philips head screws that i cant find where they go, I also need to figure out a few screws on the head light. looks like they just push in to a rubber grommet? I also would like to find out when you replace the gaskets on the valve covers and also the rubber washers on the bolts to the valve covers?

 

I would also really like to think all the BMW owners that have published so much good information on working on these bikes!!

 

Oh ya one more question! I have the regular old mercury gauges for adjusting the TB's? I have read some about the Twin Max? Does everyone like these? from the article I read seems like a very good tool for the twins?

[Dave in Doodah]

I can only answer on the TwinMax, as I just recently got my R1150RT, but have yet to do a service on an oilhead...

 

I used a mercury gauge to sync the carbs on my old airhead several times over the years, and I loved it. I picked up the Twin Max after a move and could not find any mercury. I was very pleased with the Twin Max and will use it on my first TB synch this spring (make sure to use fresh batteries every time, so I have learned from the posts). Also, do a 'TB synch' search in the threads and read lots of opinions about either way, and others....

 

If I could choose from both, I would still use my trusty old mercury gauge, if I had it.

[Linz]

The gaskets on the valve covers don't need replacing unless they are leaking.

 

Sometimes they leak if you don't dry them thoroughly with paper towels when you remove them (and again before you replace them). Make sure that you only tighten the 4 bolts with an accurate torque wrench to 7Nm. They strip easily and catch a LOT of people out...

 

The rubber grommet on the bolts, I've never had a leak there, or needed to replace any.

 

TwinMax is good but you need to know the technique. Be careful, read the instructions. It's OK for my three cylinder Triumph too. Just get two cylinders right and use cylinder one as your reference for the others.

 

The water Manometer is preferred by many on this list. I've never used it myself or felt the need but those that have mostly say that it's more accurate and faster. Who knows? It's certainly cheaper to make.

 

I never overfill the bike with oil. I do the side-stand-centre-stand oil dance to get all of the warm (hot) oil out of the oil cooler and then let it drain down into the sump before dropping the sump plug. A god long drain and then pop the plug back in and torque it.

 

I measure the new oil with an accurate jug, 3.75 Liters of oil according to the Manual and that's all that goes in. The sight glass is unreliable when changing oil until you've taken the bike for a run and done the dance.

 

The large Phillips head screws are likely to come from underneath the mirrors and the front bottom of the dash. I always undo mine and treat the bike as if it has two halves, left and right. I have two old coffee mugs and I place and account for all screws etc when replacing the fairing halves. Once you've done it a few times, you'll remember where they all go.

 

As a small aside, I always begin to remove and begin to replace the tupperware with the two little devils at the very front on either side of the oil cooler. I'm unsure of the "correct" procedure but I find that if you start and end there, the whole fairing seems to fit better. The nose screws can be hard to fit if you have everything else nailed tight.

 

I'd put a regular air filter on that bike. K&N doesn't flow one jot more power than stock and lets too much crap into your engine IMO. Other people will disagree.

 

I never use them. Overhyped and underperform. Just a free opinion for you. Cum Grano Salis.

 

I hope this helped.

 

Linz

[AndyS]

Well its first service for me! I have to say I am really enjoying my 96 1100rt!... Nothing was to far off, other then me putting to much oil in!! I know it to! .....Everything went well but I have 4 large Philips head screws that i cant find where they go,.....I also would like to find out when you replace the gaskets on the valve covers and also the rubber washers on the bolts to the valve covers?

 

....I have the regular old mercury gauges for adjusting the TB's? I have read some about the Twin Max? Does everyone like these? from the article I read seems like a very good tool for the twins?

 

You can get rid of your excess oil by pulling the oil filter a couple of times.

 

What type of screws have you got 'left over'?

 

Don't bother getting the TwinMax if your Mercury Manometers are working OK. They are delightfully simple, reliable and consistently accurate.

 

 

Dont bother replacing the rubber gaskets on the rocker cover components unless they are damaged or leaking.

 

 

Andy

[tallman]

Only 4 left over?

Not bad for a first time.

With luck you can get that down to one.

Mitch posted a good idea to photcopy your bikes fairing image tape that to cardboard and then put the screws where they came from.

After a while most people sort it out, but I still try to make sure I put each one back where itcame from.

No leaks?

Good to go.

 

[Rlbol]

unfortunately a previous owner replaced a lot of fairing screws with SS but they are all the same length so it is a bit difficult.

I did only have 4 left over which are large black Phillips head screws.

I do seem o have a bit of leaking from both the valve cover gaskets, a very small amount. I am going to try cleaning them and re torquing them down.

Now the other problem I am having is there seems to be a lot of vibration now in the 3k to 5k RPM range. I dont recall ever noticing this before! I am not sure what could have caused that? I adjusted valves, synched TB and changed oil in the motor as well as the Trans. Oil was 15/50 mobil one and the Trans was 75/90 mobil one. Any one have any ideas on this? Or maybe where to start looking for the problem?? Only thing really different is it has been really cold 40's when i did all the work. Which is very cold for south florida! I dont know how that could affect anything or the TB's?

 

 

[AndyS]

...Now the other problem I am having is there seems to be a lot of vibration now in the 3k to 5k RPM range. I dont recall ever noticing this before!

 

When you did the synch, did you go for injector balance at tickover or did you set your balance up for use at the higher rev range.

I think when you do it you will find the engine much smoother if you get the balance as near as possible at the engines natural rough point (about 4300 rpm).

Andy

[boatzo]

unfortunately a previous owner replaced a lot of fairing screws with SS but they are all the same length so it is a bit difficult.

I did only have 4 left over which are large black Phillips head screws.

I do seem o have a bit of leaking from both the valve cover gaskets, a very small amount. I am going to try cleaning them and re torquing them down.

Now the other problem I am having is there seems to be a lot of vibration now in the 3k to 5k RPM range. I dont recall ever noticing this before! I am not sure what could have caused that? I adjusted valves, synched TB and changed oil in the motor as well as the Trans. Oil was 15/50 mobil one and the Trans was 75/90 mobil one. Any one have any ideas on this? Or maybe where to start looking for the problem?? Only thing really different is it has been really cold 40's when i did all the work. Which is very cold for south florida! I dont know how that could affect anything or the TB's?

 

 

Everything the others have said is very valid so I won't repeat in detail. I agree that if the merc. manometer is working, hang on to it. The Carb Tune manometer is excellent. I borrowed a Twin Max and it is OK, but I prefer the Carb Tune.

 

Did you remove and clean the BBS (big brass screws) and as was posted, check balance at tick over and at 3500 or so RPMs.

 

Excess oil will go to the air cleaner box. You will need to clean it out.

 

Were the valve covers leaking before you removed them to do the adjust? If not, a good cleaning, inspection, and reseating will probably be sufficient. Alignment of the gaskets and the round rubber jobs that go over the plugs is critical. You will lose a bit of that excess oil when you remove the valve covers again.

 

Glad to hear that you got the bike and have dived into it. Enjoy and keep us posted. P.S you might also want to check the throttle position sensor for correct setting. The 0=0 method works well. I don't have the details here right now but you can search 0=0.