Plumbing question

[Lawman]

When I connected my refrigerator ice maker to my water line I used a clamp that went around my copper water supply line that was stubbed out of my wall approx. 2 inches.. This clamp used a small screw type lever that used a needle like point to puncture the side of the copper supply line and somehow it allowed water to flow through the puncture and supplied water to the water line going to the refrigerator..Now I want to disconnect my ice maker and repair the copper supply line. For now I just closed the screw valve but I want to take the clamp off the line and make a permanent repair..Is there any easy way to do it?

[Paul_Burkett]

What you probably have is a 1/2" supply pipe in the wall with a T soldered into the pipe line and a 2-3" capped stub coming out of the wall and a saddle valve on the stub. The saddle valve can stay on indefinately unless or you can open the wall and un-solder the old stub and install a new one and repair the wall.

 

On the other hand,

if you turn off the water and remove the saddle valve, clean the stub very well, you could then wrap the pipe with J-B Weld and give it 24 hours to cure. That might work, I wouldn't, but in a pinch.....?

[Big_Gray]

Why not just leave the valve in place? You may decide you want an icemaker again some time in the future. Other-wise I would cut the line at the puncture and solder in a coupling. The coupling should cost about $0.59 and the solder job should take less than 5 minutes... i guess high quality duct tape would be easier but it sure isn't permanent

[Lawman]

Why not just leave the valve in place? You may decide you want an icemaker again some time in the future. Other-wise I would cut the line at the puncture and solder in a coupling. The coupling should cost about $0.59 and the solder job should take less than 5 minutes... i guess high quality duct tape would be easier but it sure isn't permanent

 

The reason I disconnected the line was to prevent the possibility of a bad leak or break and flooding my house. What are the chances of the saddle valve leaking or worse having a total failure and flooding my house?

And if I decide to remove it can I just cut the line and solder on a new cap with liquid solder or does it need to be sweated on?

[Silver Surfer/AKAButters]

I refuse to answer that without an attorney present.

 

I'd cut it and cap it as suggested earlier.

[Paul_Burkett]

I say leave it on. Screw the t-handle ll of the way in and tighten the packing nut (the nut under the t-handle) and leave it alone. The rubber on top of the pipe will seal around the hole.

[Lawman]

I say leave it on. Screw the t-handle ll of the way in and tighten the packing nut (the nut under the t-handle) and leave it alone. The rubber on top of the pipe will seal around the hole.

 

Then that's what I shall do...

[ESokoloff]

I think the best way to fix it would be to install a 1/2" sweat X 1/4" compression recessed angle valve in the wall but that may be more then you want to take on.

You probably would get by with just leaving it on but know that it may leak in the future.

If the floor is wood I'd be especially concerned about leaving it.

I doubt it will fail catastrophically without ample warning (formation of rust, copper corrosion & water scale).

If you do leave it, install a compression cap on the end.

Make it a habit to check it once or twice a year when you clean the coil on the fridge..... you do clean the coil on the fridge right???????

[bridwell52]

I have made over $6,000 dollars on flooring repair due to these saddle valves. They are not code approved here for a reason.

Take it off and do it right or next time your gone for a week you may have a nightmare upon arriving home.

David