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Starter problem


spfksfdk

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More trouble...

 

Sometimes when I hit the start button, there is a click but the starter doesn't run. If I click enough times the bike will start. I checked the cables.

 

Any advice or should I just change the starter+solenoid (£100 for reconditioned unit).

 

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More trouble...

 

Sometimes when I hit the start button, there is a click but the starter doesn't run. If I click enough times the bike will start. I checked the cables.

 

Any advice or should I just change the starter+solenoid (£100 for reconditioned unit).

 

The most common cause for this is poor connections. I would pull the starter, clean up all the mating surfaces, clean and grease the bendix and re-assemble. Failing this, a set of starter motor brushes should set you back a tenner or so...

 

Andy

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The worst case is the dreaded Valeo detached magnet scenario. This is normally found on the earlier (pre-2001) models but you never know.

When you remove the starter to strip and clean, as Boffin suggested, you will need to remove the bendix gear assembly from the "can" and check that all 4 magnets are firmly in place inside the "can". HERE IS a very good write-up on this from Anton :thumbsup:.

 

 

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Good links pilby, my problem seems to be electrical.

 

The solenoid clicks but no volts are applied to the motor itself. I took the solenoid off and checked with an mult-meter. I can get a circuit if I press hard on the plunger, but it doesn't work when it's in the bike.

 

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Andrew, simple test.. Use a jumper wire to jump from the big battery cable stud on the starter to the solenoid pull in terminal on the solenoid (that will by-pass all the on bike pull in circuitry)..

If the starter then operates OK look for a low voltage problem in the ign switch side of the system (like that relay Mick talked about) or resistance in that side of the system..

 

If it still won’t crank over every time the solenoid is jumped then look for a solenoid problem or some reason the starter drive in the starter won’t slide & deploy (rust,, bent shaft,, buggered helix,,??,, etc)..

 

Probably wouldn’t also hurt to monitor starter voltage at the large starter battery cable to see if the system voltage is above 10 volts through the entire jumping process (if low voltage look for cable resistance,, low battery,, other reason for low voltage..

 

Twisty

 

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Hi Twisty

If I short the two big studs, the motor spins freely, everytime.

 

If I short the live feed to the low tension side of the solenoid, there is a loud click but the motor does not spin.

 

When it does crank, battery volts are about 10.6v

 

So either the switch is broken or the solenoid is not able to move far enough to activate the switch?

 

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Andrew, next move is to remove the starter,, then wire it up from a good battery with jumper cables & watch the starter drive to see if it fully slides into deployed position.. If it slides all the way but the starter doesn’t spin then suspect the solenoid internal switch is malfunctioning.. If it won’t slide out freely suspect a problem with the starter/ shaft/ starter drive..

 

Twisty

 

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I did that :-)

 

It did appear that the bendix was not fully deployed??? I cleaned the bendix with some wd40 and tried to dry it as much as I could. I tried to start the bike 10 times and each time the started turned over, so I'll give it time and see what happens. Thanks for your help Twisty.

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Dear Andrew,

 

For what it's worth to you, the starter on my 1996 RT had similar chain of events. I ended up just replaceing it. For reasons I don't understand, the new starter has more grunt than the old one ever did.

 

Best Wishes, Mark Shuell.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Went to my local battery center, £15 for a new solenoid and it starts every time. Previously quoted £150 for a reconditioned starter.

 

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