Help! no headlights on my RT!!!!!!!!!!at all......

[cali_beemer]

Well i got out to my bike after work and sure enough there was a warning message on the compter display of my 1200rt. I looked it up in the owners manual and it was the headlight. Sure enough there was no headlight on. I tried high beams and no dice. No lights at all. The brake lights, tail lights and turn signals all work. To give some history, I just bought this bike about a month ago. It came with one of this Kissan headlight modulator thingys. Its never modulated the headlights since I have owned it but never really thought too much since the headlights worked. Anyway a few nights ago I turned the high beams on and the headlight was modulating at night. So, I think that something is screwwy with the headlight modulator. I emailed the previous owner to find out where the unit is at on the bike. Is there a fuse possibly out? If so where is the fuse box at? Sorry but I am just not that familiar with this bike yet.

[peterbonly]

You might start w/ Kissan themselves. Usually good w/ service and they should know how it was installed based on their instructions. All this if the original owner doesn't fess up to the problem he probably created...

[Huzband]

There is no fuse box on the 12RT. It's a CanBUS system.

 

I'm sure you're right on the modulator diagnosis, though I have no knowledge of them.

[Koop]

Why do I keep hearing about Can Bus meaning no fuses?

 

Can Bus is nothing more than a Controller Area Network on a bus line. This allows a network of controllers and sensors to communicate. The protocol for this network is clearly defined and has nothing to do with fused circuits, that is a completely different subject.

 

Rant over.

[sundaeman]

My Kisan has a connector between the BMW connector and the connector to the front lights. If yours is the same you should be able to remove the Kisan connector from the circuit to eliminate it if it is the problem. It may be little squirreley to find with just your hand but if you pull it and put the BMW connection straight in it may eliminate the Kisan as the cause of your problem.

[cali_beemer]

My Kisan has a connector between the BMW connector and the connector to the front lights. If yours is the same you should be able to remove the Kisan connector from the circuit to eliminate it if it is the problem. It may be little squirreley to find with just your hand but if you pull it and put the BMW connection straight in it may eliminate the Kisan as the cause of your problem.

 

Thanks, I wasnt sure what was involved to hooking one up. I didnt know if there were wires spliced, etc.. This sounds alot simplier. I will do that first. I sent an email to the previous owner to see if he could tell me where he mounted it. If it is the Kissan unit, I wonder if Kissan will replace it for me. The light sensor is mounted to the dash and if I remove that then there will be a hole in the dash.I am not a fan of that.

[10ovr]

If you are going to remove the Kissan and not reinstall another one,,I would just cut the wire behind the sensor and just lev it there,,Look's better than a hole,,,I have also seen the plug come loose the goes into the back of the head light unit,,Under the dash on the right side,,,,If you take both upper side panels off (4 screws each side)Then pop the mirrors out,,,Then there is about 8 screws that hold the dash panel on,,Remove that and you can see what you doing,,,,O NO post # 666,,Thats not good,,,

[Ken H.]

Why do I keep hearing about Can Bus meaning no fuses?

 

Can Bus is nothing more than a Controller Area Network on a bus line. This allows a network of controllers and sensors to communicate. The protocol for this network is clearly defined and has nothing to do with fused circuits, that is a completely different subject.

 

Rant over.

You are right in the literal sense. The use of the CANBus network protocol between the various controllers on bike does not specifically equate to no fuses.

 

But is also correct that the R1200xx series has no fuses.

 

A more accurate descriptive would be that the ZFE module controls the various ancillary functions on the bike, such as lights, and a function of the ZFE module is current limiting.

 

OTOH, it’s not exactly fair to expect everyone posting here to have an understanding of modern day vehicle electronics engineering. So while, “CANBus = no fuses” is not fully technically correct, never-the-less it gets the message across.

 

[cali_beemer]

Okay, so I can see a wire bundle but I can see much else without taking something off to get more access. So, how do i take the dash off? Whatt side panels come off? Do the mirrors pop off like older RT's? I dont have a clymer manual or anything so any help on how to get in ther would help. I would normally go buy the manual but I just lost my job friday so money is tight right now.

 

 

[10ovr]

If you are going to remove the Kissan and not reinstall another one,,I would just cut the wire behind the sensor and just lev it there,,Look's better than a hole,,,I have also seen the plug come loose the goes into the back of the head light unit,,Under the dash on the right side,,,,If you take both upper side panels off (4 screws each side)Then pop the mirrors out,,,Then there is about 8 screws that hold the dash panel on,,Remove that and you can see what you doing,,,,O NO post # 666,,Thats not good,,,

Hello,,Mirrors,,garb the frame around the glass and pull ,

[sundaeman]

To take the Kisan out of the circuit and eliminate it as the source of your problem you shouldn't need to pull the dash. Take a peek here

 

http://www.kisantech.com/view_product.php?product=P115W-A6#

 

And click on the installation booklet link on the bottom right. Check out page 19.

[10ovr]

It takes about 5 min. to remove the panels and dash cover,,Why fight it when you can see every thing with the dash panel off,,

[Jon_M]

I had exactly this problem on my 2005 RT. I unhooked the modulator (a simple un-plug, not complicated at all). It did not eliminate the problem. I ended up with a whole new headlight assembly on warranty. The dealer could not located the source of the problem, and the labor hours quickly approached the swap-out price, so they just replaced it.

[cali_beemer]

If you are going to remove the Kissan and not reinstall another one,,I would just cut the wire behind the sensor and just lev it there,,Look's better than a hole,,,I have also seen the plug come loose the goes into the back of the head light unit,,Under the dash on the right side,,,,If you take both upper side panels off (4 screws each side)Then pop the mirrors out,,,Then there is about 8 screws that hold the dash panel on,,Remove that and you can see what you doing,,,,O NO post # 666,,Thats not good,,,

Hello,,Mirrors,,garb the frame around the glass and pull ,

 

Thanks, once I have the mirrors popped off is it just a matter of undoing the screws for the dash or are do the main upper side panels(painted) need to come off first? Where are the screws at for the side panles then. I dont have a radio. I see some scres around the back not up front. I see soome of the dash screws so that should be pretty simple once i get to them all.

[10ovr]

Yes you need to take the side panels off first to get to 2 of the dash panel screws,,There are 4 screws on each of the side panels,,2 are on the front inner edge pointing towards the forks,the next one is is next to where the speaker would go ,and #4 is under the aux plug,There are 2 screws there,You only need to take out the upper one,,Then pull the panel away from the bike at the aux plug (rear),Then forward,,The front of the panel cups over the inner panel in the front,,,,Then remove the dash screws,,,,

[cali_beemer]

Yes you need to take the side panels off first to get to 2 of the dash panel screws,,There are 4 screws on each of the side panels,,2 are on the front inner edge pointing towards the forks,the next one is is next to where the speaker would go ,and #4 is under the aux plug,There are 2 screws there,You only need to take out the upper one,,Then pull the panel away from the bike at the aux plug (rear),Then forward,,The front of the panel cups over the inner panel in the front,,,,Then remove the dash screws,,,,

 

Thank you very much, I will give tit a try today.

[cali_beemer]

Okay, I took the side panels off and the dash. Its very easy to get to with that off. I disconected the Kissan unit which was very easy to do. I pluged the factory wiring in and sure enough, I have some headlights again. However, only on one side. If you look at the front of the bike, the right side low beam and right side parking light dont come on. Now for the weird part. If I flip into high beam, the right side low beam comes on while the parking light doesnt. The high beam does come on when its suppose to. So I know the right side low beam bulb isnt burnt becasue it works when the high beam is on. I am not sure about the parking light that doesnt work. I can check that to see if its a bad bulb. Would a bad bulb there affect the others? Any suggestions? atleast I can ride it now even if it means in high beam. I just might piss some people off. Ohhh well, beign out of a job I need to ride becasue I cant afford the gas in my truck.

 

 

[cali_beemer]

Bueller? Anyone have any ideas before i put the pieces back together?

[lvnvbiker]

Sounds like something is crossed in there. On my 07rt both are lit on low and stay lit even when the high beam is lit. I have seen others that the lows cut out when the high kicks on. I am no electrical guru myself, and not being able to look at your plugs and the wiring diagram from here in Vegas I'd recomend that you take it to someone if you are not comfortable doing it yourself. I don't know where you are in Cali, but if you are near Orange/Anahiem talk to the guys at Irv Seaver. I grew up by thier old spot and have got a few bikes from them, always with great service and caring help.

[cali_beemer]

Can someone confirm that the bulbs cant be bad if it comes in with high beam but not low beam?

[lvnvbiker]

If the bulb lights it is not bad, they either work or not. If you want to test then pull them and run them direct of the battery with some test leads.

[sundaeman]

Pull the headlight connector, make sure there's no crud on the contacts and that male blades are straight. When I installed/uninstalled/installed the Kisan connector I had some headlight issues and reseating the connector took care of it. Sometimes the blades don't seat properly.

 

I'm 95% sure the low beam bulb circuit is independent of the high beam.

 

Hope this helps.

[cali_beemer]

Pull the headlight connector, make sure there's no crud on the contacts and that male blades are straight. When I installed/uninstalled/installed the Kisan connector I had some headlight issues and reseating the connector took care of it. Sometimes the blades don't seat properly.

 

I'm 95% sure the low beam bulb circuit is independent of the high beam.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Thanks, I will give that a try since i have it all pulled apart.

[bimmers]

is there a lead going from the "dark" side to the high beam? connecting them. Maybe the previous owner tried to have both high and low blinking when daylight?

 

Try to detect any non factory wires. Otherwise have someone look at it and pay for an hnour of their time to get it fixed, before you burn something else.

[cali_beemer]

Wow, and the trivial puzzle continues. I finally got a chance to work on the bike again today. I pulled the headlight main plug. I looked at the pins and sure enough, the lower left pin was bent. I bent the pin back and the connector slid right on. I was thinking cool, that was my problem. I go to turn the bike on and now there are no low beams at all. Even turning on the high beam, there are no low beams. Grrrrrr, fu#%. I am really un happy. I went to go pull a bulb to see if maybe the low beam bulbs have gone bad but I started to run out of daylight and I am having trouble seeing inside where the spring is to release the bulb. Anyone have any thoughts if the bulbs are still good?

[sundaeman]

cali_beemer,

 

Other than telling you to try and re-seat the plug, check the bulbs by pulling them ( I think both going within a few days of each other would be quite the coincidence) and maybe re-seat the thing a few more times until it works. Your running out of straight forward options with your current diagnostic setup.

 

If you want to continue your quest to figure this out yourself it's time to drop 30-50 bucks for a basic volt meter. Radio Shack has one for about $30 that will cover basic test on the RT and some household stuff. If you get your hands on one of those you can do some more thorough checks.

 

You may want to check bmwsr.org, Jim there may have some ideas too.

 

[cali_beemer]

Success at last. I was starting to get really frustrated. After bending the bent prong back in place, that didnt fix it. Needing more room and better access, I decided to pull the entire headlight module. Not nearly as hard as I would have figured (A+ to BMW engineering). Inspecting the headlight I realized that the main connector was easily pushing back into the headlight. So I connected the headlight unit again but this time opening up one of the bulb cover to reach around and push the backside while I made the connection to prevent it from not engaging all the way. I had partiall success. Everything but the right side low beam worked. This was much better than before where the low beams didnt work at all. So I pulled that bulb, went and bought a new one and popped it in. Now all my lights work like they should and I even got the sylvania silverstar ultra bulb for better light. I am one happy camper knowing that this is now fixed. I want to thank everyone that chimed in with suggestions and especially Semper_Fi whom sent the illustration for pulling the upper body apart. Thank you!

[Semper_Fi]

[hexairheadbeemerguy]

Can you post the Sylvania part number please?

[cali_beemer]

Can you post the Sylvania part number please?

 

I went to go look at the package but I already threw it out. I went to sylvanias website but I dont see where they give the part number. I just went to the local autozone near my house and they had the std, the silverstar and the silverstar ultra all in the H7. I am sure I paid throught the arse compared to online prices but I needed it right then and there and wasnt going to wait.

 

On a side note, the guy that worked there that tested and sold me my new bulb warned me that the H7 bulbs blow out on a regular basis. I thought that was funny since some people were wondering why the RT bulbs blow so often. His thoughts were that the H7 had a weaker designed filament. Who knows but apearantly they sell alot of H7 bulbs.