Throttle cable adjustments

[Matts_12GS]

During a TBS attempt it became obvious that cable adjustment was no longer doing what it should.

 

My questions:

1. Can I replace that adjuster that's on the cable from the Bowden without having to replace that cable?

2. If the threads on attaching plate on the throttle body are worn, can that be replaced apart from the throttle body if needed?

3. If it can't be replaced apart from the throttle body, it would seem that a larger threaded adjuster could be made to work in the there couldn't it?

[T__]

Matt, yes the cable will come out through the adjusting furrel after you remove the barrel on the end that goes into the TBI cam hole..

 

In most cases when the adjusting furrel seems to be stripped it is out near the end of it’s travel.. Maybe try turning the furrels in farther then take the cable slack back out with the main cable adjuster at the twist grip..

 

If your adjusting furrel is stripped you can usually just remove it then open the slot (cable slot) up a little using a tapered screw driver (that makes the thread OD size slightly larger & allows a tighter fit in the TBI bracket.. You might need to tap the retaining nut threads to be slightly larger though..

 

Twisty

 

[Matts_12GS]

thanks Twisty, that's what I was hoping for, but I didn't think that was a split adjuster on the 1100RT.

 

I'll double check on that when I get home and then I'll go ahead and pull the throttle body off the bike and check the condition of the threads on that plate and the cable. I might as well do both of them if I'm going to one thing.

 

As an aside, this bike does have what sounds like a loose throttle shaft bushing that taps pretty loudly at idle. Hammersly has the right side TB listed at $271. Seems like a decent price from what Bing quoted me earlier this year.

[philbytx]

Matt, the TB rattle is very common and can be quite hard to "dial out" (even for an anal SOB like me ) and may not necessarily mean that you have a bad bushing. You can test if the bushing is bad by spraying carb cleaner or propane at the bushing area and see if your idle speeds up.

Also, I understand that you don't have to buy the whole TB "enchilada" now as you can actually buy a butterfly bushing kit directly from BING!!!

 

[T__]

thanks Twisty, that's what I was hoping for, but I didn't think that was a split adjuster on the 1100RT.

 

I'll double check on that when I get home and then I'll go ahead and pull the throttle body off the bike and check the condition of the threads on that plate and the cable. I might as well do both of them if I'm going to one thing.

 

As an aside, this bike does have what sounds like a loose throttle shaft bushing that taps pretty loudly at idle. Hammersly has the right side TB listed at $271. Seems like a decent price from what Bing quoted me earlier this year.

 

 

Matt, rattle is normal on about any oilhead with some miles on the engine..

 

Most of us just don’t worry about it as it is harmless..

 

Last few oilhead TBI’s I have had apart didn’t use throttle shaft bushings (just throttle shaft riding in the aluminum TBI shaft bore)..

 

You can order new shaft & other parts if the shaft has some wear (yours probably has some slight wear) or have a machine shop bore the TBI housing to take a bronze oil-lite bushing..

 

If you really want to fool with getting rid of that rattle- first make darn sure the throttle cable goes slightly slack at idle,, if still a problem you can remove the outer TBI throttle shaft cover then drill the outer end of the throttle shaft then thread the hole to take a small screw, then make a bushing to fit the ID of a small ball bearing,, then bolt the bearing to the end of the throttle shaft,, then re-work the throttle shaft cover to tightly grip the bearing OD (I have done one 1100 this way & it worked good but wasn’t worth all the work to eliminate that slight rattle)..

 

Twisty

 

[Matts_12GS]

I'm not especially worried about the rattle, I was just thinking that if I had to replace the TB if the threads are stripped from the cable adjuster, it'd be a nice benefit.

 

 

[Matts_12GS]

A quick update, I have pulled the throttle body and it seems that the threads on the adjustment ferrule are indeed stripped in one section.

I'm going to order new throttle cables and maybe see if Bing will sell me just that mounting plate while I'm at it.

[T__]

A quick update, I have pulled the throttle body and it seems that the threads on the adjustment ferrule are indeed stripped in one section.

I'm going to order new throttle cables and maybe see if Bing will sell me just that mounting plate while I'm at it.

 

 

Matt, the furrel (cable adjuster) & nut should be available from BMW parts (about $8 or $9 ea).. The TBI bracket is probably a Bing part but maybe BMW parts can break the TBI down for a separate bracket part number.. If the furrel has threads missing in one area the bracket is probably still OK (screw the furrel all the way in to see if it will tighten up securely on the unused part of the furrel threads)..

 

 

Twisty

 

 

 

[Matts_12GS]

I'll call in the morning to make sure, but I didn't see one listed for the 1100s,

 

I am looking here for the R1100RT

 

I do see something similar listed here as part 8 and associated bits.

 

Thoughts?

[OoPEZoO]

I just went down and looked at the spare cables I have in the garage. I don't think there is any way to remove the adjuster or nut from the cable without destroying the cable. They were installed on the cable during assembly, and the cable would have to cut in order to remove them.

 

I have a really hard time believing that BMW would supply them as separate parts. I'm pretty sure the cable lives and dies as an assembly.

[Ken H.]

Will the (lock) nut (on the cable ferrule) fit past the barrel on the end of the cable itself? I.e. – you can remove the nut completely?

 

If so, it seems to me one solution for a stripped cable mounting plate/bracket on a TB would be to add a second nut. One below the bracket, one above.

 

[Ken H.]

Oops, Guess I should have read Keith's post first. So much for that idea.

[T__]

I'll call in the morning to make sure, but I didn't see one listed for the 1100s,

 

I am looking here for the R1100RT

 

I do see something similar listed here as part 8 and associated bits.

 

Thoughts?

 

Matt, there might be some different versions or some year differences.. I have been able to get the cables out of the adjusting furrels on some I have worked on.. The ones I have worked with had slots in the ends of the barrels that go in the hole in the TBI cams with a button on the end of the cable that seats in a recessed hole in the barrel.. (cable just slid out of the barrel through the slot).. I also see BMW has separate part numbers on the threaded furrels & the knurled nuts so in their eyes they must be replaceable..

 

 

 

 

 

Twisty

[Matts_12GS]

Yeah, I was hoping for that too, and contemplating brazing a nut to the bottom of the plate and then putting a different lock nut on, but it's the ferrule threads that are stripped, not the plate.

 

Since the cables are supposed to be replaced at some interval (I think 24K) I've decided to replace the 3 accelerator cables. It was cheap, and hopefully I'll have them in hand soon so I can pull the bike down the rest of the way and be ready to ride on my BBG attempt at the end of the month.