mikeR1100R Posted November 4, 2008 Share Posted November 4, 2008 I know this has been discussed in previous threads, but my question is this: If I buy replacement tensioners are they all the upgraded part or do I have to make sure to specify that I want the upgraded version? Thanks, Mike Link to comment
Boffin Posted November 4, 2008 Share Posted November 4, 2008 Only the LH tensioner needs the upgraded part, which is the one specified for the R1200xx. I would ask for that to be sure of getting the right one. Andy Link to comment
BDS Posted November 4, 2008 Share Posted November 4, 2008 I know this has been discussed in previous threads, but my question is this: If I buy replacement tensioners are they all the upgraded part or do I have to make sure to specify that I want the upgraded version? Thanks, Mike I just finished changing out the LH tensioner. I've got the part numbers somewhere at home, so I'll try to hunt them down and post tonight for you. Link to comment
Joe Frickin' Friday Posted November 4, 2008 Share Posted November 4, 2008 Only the LH tensioner needs the upgraded part, which is the one specified for the R1200xx. I would ask for that to be sure of getting the right one. Never understood this. Why is only the LH cam chain prone to rattling? Why not the RH one? Link to comment
Boffin Posted November 4, 2008 Share Posted November 4, 2008 Only the LH tensioner needs the upgraded part, which is the one specified for the R1200xx. I would ask for that to be sure of getting the right one. Never understood this. Why is only the LH cam chain prone to rattling? Why not the RH one? Because it is the other way up. The tensioners are oil-filled and rely on oil pressure to do the job. The LH one drains down and so leads to rattle. The RH one is the other way up and stays full. Andy Link to comment
Chris K Posted November 4, 2008 Share Posted November 4, 2008 Here are the part numbers for the upgrade that I ordered last year. cylinder 11317688629 piston 11317656922 seal ring 7119963308 Link to comment
StuGotz Posted November 4, 2008 Share Posted November 4, 2008 [ Because it is the other way up. The tensioners are oil-filled and rely on oil pressure to do the job. The LH one drains down and so leads to rattle. The RH one is the other way up and stays full. Andy Kinda makes you wonder what BMW engineers were thinkin' about when they devised this jewel? MB> Link to comment
AndyS Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 Kinda makes you wonder what BMW engineers were thinkin' about when they devised this jewel? MB> The engineers did an OK job on this part. It is only to satisfy the likes of me who don't like that initial clatter that they changed the design. The tensioner (clatter or no clatter) has shown itself to be totally reliable. Now as to HES, Stick coils, Rear brake callipers, headlight usefulness and gearbox alignment, then you have a point. Andy Link to comment
ESokoloff Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 Now as to.... Rear brake callipers, What's wrong with them? Link to comment
AndyS Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 Now as to.... Rear brake callipers, What's wrong with them? A lot of owners find that the left hand pad wears much faster than the right also you will find many instances of rear discs running Very hot because the rear calliper often drags lightly. This is not true for every 1150RT, but certainly for many. Andy Link to comment
ESokoloff Posted November 6, 2008 Share Posted November 6, 2008 Now as to.... Rear brake calipers, What's wrong with them? A lot of owners find that the left hand pad wears much faster than the right also you will find many instances of rear discs running Very hot because the rear caliper often drags lightly. This is not true for every 1150RT, but certainly for many. Andy The reason I asked was that in the past few weeks I've noticed just that Can one perhaps disassemble the caliper, clean &/or hone to eliminate this? In the past I've noticed some slight dragging of at least one front caliper piston immediately after replacing the pads but after wearing in a bit, all seems OK (on the front). Link to comment
TonyS Posted November 6, 2008 Share Posted November 6, 2008 Now as to.... Rear brake callipers, What's wrong with them? I had the same issue on my 1100R. A quick sanding of the retention pins with 1000 wet/dry sand paper polished them up and eliminated the sticking pad. The initial pad was gone at 17k miles, the second set post-polishing were barely worn at 33k miles when I sold the bike. Link to comment
SAAB93driver Posted November 6, 2008 Share Posted November 6, 2008 Now as to.... Rear brake callipers, What's wrong with them? A lot of owners find that the left hand pad wears much faster than the right also you will find many instances of rear discs running Very hot because the rear calliper often drags lightly. This is not true for every 1150RT, but certainly for many. Andy More than you ever wanted to know how to address this issue http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/BFDRear2.1.1.pdf Link to comment
Francis Posted November 7, 2008 Share Posted November 7, 2008 I posted a write-up on this. Look up my handle on this board and find this post. It's about a year old. Francis Link to comment
mikeR1100R Posted November 7, 2008 Author Share Posted November 7, 2008 Thanks to all for the helpful info. Mike Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.