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tupperware fasteners at fuel tank 1150 RT


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I’ve had my tupperware on and off a few times and I am very careful not to cross thread and over tighten, but most of the attach points are nut plates which are easy enough to replace if worn out. I have been concerned about the attach points on top of the tank as these seem to be harder to align for relief of side loads. The screws have to be taking a toll on the internal threads. How is replacement facilitated should that eventually be required?

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Fossil, you don’t replace as they are molded in.. There are a few choices.. You can drill out & tap oversize then go to an SAE screw,, or sometimes run a bottoming tap in & use a longer screw to catch better threads,, or carefully install a Heli-Coil,, or epoxy ????


If you are having problems with hole line up maybe move the tank fore/aft a little to help (the bolt attachment has some slop in it).. Drill the Tupperware holes out slightly in the direction to help screw alignment.. Occasionally run a bottoming tap into the blind holes to keep from buggering up the threads..



Rule number one-- don’t force those screws & always align properly.. Lots easier to not cross thread them than repair them later..






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Mine don't line up well either. I instll the bolts loosely so I can shove the gas tank panel around to help line up the holes. It might also help to loosen the gas cap mounting plate.

Be careful when working on the tank, you could find yourself making a hole in it. Use the correct length screws.

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I always loosely fit the panel and hang it onto the fuel tank, ensuring the Tab A fits into Slot B etc. Then I look down into the top screw holes and slide the panel back/forward until I can see the holes are lined up. I then loosely fit the four tank screws, followed by the nose screw, then mirror screw (long). Next I loosely fit the four screws by the cylinder and finally the three by the footrest plate. Once I am satisfied that all screws are in place and correctly threaded, I tighten them in the same order.



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