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Collective clutch replacement advise needed....


OoPEZoO

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[rant]

 

How come when you order a $500 clutch "kit", the bastards can't include the $10 worth of one time use stretch bolts that you need to reassemble the clutch?

 

[/rant]

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How come when you order a $500 clutch "kit", the bastards can't include the $10 worth of one time use stretch bolts that you need to reassemble the clutch?

So you can wait for yet another parts order to arrive just when you thought you had everything you needed to put the bike back together. :smirk:

 

 

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Joe Frickin' Friday
How come when you order a $500 clutch "kit", the bastards can't include the $10 worth of one time use stretch bolts that you need to reassemble the clutch?

[/rant]

 

AFAIK the five M10 flywheel bolts (that bolt flywheel to crank) are one-time-use stretch bolts, but the six M6 bolts that hold the clutch assembly to the flywheel are reusable.

 

Am I wrong on this? I didn't see any mention of replacement for the M6 bolts in the service manual.

 

In any event, Seth's right...you'll have to make another trip to the dealer anyway to get shims before you're done...

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I was just reading my Clymer about an hour ago and it mentions that both the flywheel bolts AND the clutch housing bolts are "one time use"

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Joe Frickin' Friday
1100clutch.jpg

 

Well, they mix up their terms here and there (first column it's called a clutch housing, second column it's called a flywheel), but it does seem to be clear on the need to replace the M6 bolts. My bad, thanks.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got Mitch's care package yesterday, which included drivers for the rear engine and transmission seals, plus a fixture for measuring the end play on the transmission shafts.

 

I set everything up, took the measurements, did the calculations, tore the measuring rig down, then set it all up again to double check. I ended up with almost the exact same measurments (within .01mm), so I feel pretty confident I was measuring correctly. I already posted over on Mitch's thread, but I wanted to repeat it here so all of my project info is in one place.

 

  • For the output shaft, the required shim is .34mm-.44mm (.01339"-.01732"), the orginal shim thickness was .76mm (.02992") if my math is right and I understand this correctly, I had a preload here.
     
  • For the idler shaft, the required shim thickness is .6mm-.7mm (.02362"-.02756"), the original shim thickness is .67mm (.02638") so it looks like I'm good there
     
  • And just for fun....the new input shaft required thickness is also .6mm-.7mm (.02362"-.02756"), and the original shims I have measure .54mm (.02126"). So I will have to order some shims here as well.

 

I plan to recheck/remeasure everything closely when I get home again tonight. I just don't have a warm and fuzzy feeling about the load on that output shaft. Even though everything lines up perfect inside the transmission, I'm still wondering if either the shaft is not not seated completely or the bearing on the front side of the transmission moved on the shaft while I was disassembling it.

 

Either way.....I went ahead and ordered some new shims for the input and output shafts. Between the new ones and the ones I already have, I should be able to get just about any combination if the measurements change due to anything I find with the output shaft.

 

I also ordered a new set of those damn little stretch bolts and washers that are used to hold the clutch housing together. I probably won't receive the parts till early next week, so it looks like I'll be spending the weekend cleaning more parts and making things pretty.

 

Its amazing how nice everything looks when you actually put some elbow grease into polishing up the parts

 

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i cant believe how long it takes you to get parts over there, a clutch takes 2 to 4 days, longest,-usually next day,

engine/gearbox stuff is usually "off the shelf"(if you know where to go that is)

anyway , good luck with the box,

iv got an early box to rebuild sometime so its informative

 

 

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i cant believe how long it takes you to get parts over there, a clutch takes 2 to 4 days, longest,-usually next day,

engine/gearbox stuff is usually "off the shelf"(if you know where to go that is)

anyway , good luck with the box,

iv got an early box to rebuild sometime so its informative

 

 

Yup, its pretty aweful. This literaly could have been a weekend job if the parts were available. 3 days of actual work, 3 weeks of waiting for parts. Both of my local dealers pretty much keep nothing in stock. I have to order everything either over the phone or internet........and from 2 states away in order to get decent pricing. Its pretty sad that I can get parts cheaper and faster by ordering from different state than driving the 15 miles to my dealer. Then they wonder why they don't get my business.

 

I miss my bike......yesterday was about as perfect as you can get for a ride.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The rest of the parts should be on my doorstep tomorrow afternoon when I get home from work.......so the repairs can finally resume.

 

I'm really looking forward to a weekend in the garage putting something together instead of tearing something apart. Updates and pics to follow.

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its about friggin' time! :grin:

 

Don't get me started.......I already spent more than an hour last weekend at our local Suzuki shop sitting, staring, and feeling out a lightly used '07 DL1000 VStrom. If I didn't have my parts by this weekend, I most likely would have added it to the garage and said screw the BMW.

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I'm really looking forward to a weekend in the garage putting something together...

 

Let's just hope you remember how. :grin:

 

No beer until at I at least have the tranny back together.......after that, all bets are off :grin:

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Not 100% put back together, but it survived a quick two trips around the block. Here is the continuation of the work I've been doing

 

When I pulled the flywheel, I noticed a little wetness around the seal. I pulled the outer rear main seal, and found this.

DSC04851.jpg

Definitely needed to replace the rear main seals (yes, there are TWO)

 

I was impatient on waiting for Mitch's care package (which included a proper driver for the seals) so I went ahead and used the closest thing I had to drive the new seals in. Using a tip on ADV I used a standard BMW oil filter wrench. It worked, but was a complete pain. I should have waited till Mitch's package got here :dopeslap:.

 

Thursday I got the transmission shims I had been waiting for and slapped it all back together. I wanted to take pictures, but Danielle had left the camera in her car and was stuck in class till 9pm. It went pretty smoothly. I put a little dab of grease on the shims to hold them in place, and then heated the tranny cover in the oven at 250 for about 10 min. The cover then dropped right into place over the bearings and seated nicely with a few taps from a dead blow hammer.

 

Last night I started putting the bike back together. I put the flywheel on using new stretch bolts

DSC04859.jpg

 

Here is the old clutch disk thickness. Its still within BMW's spec, but I was into 2 of the rivets and it was starting to look a little ragged

DSC04871.jpg

 

Here is the new disk.....there is only 1.0mm of difference, but I guess thats enough to last 100+k miles

DSC04872.jpg

 

Then I started assembling the new clutch kit.

DSC04860.jpg

 

Notice the markings on the pieces.....these are balancing marks and all have to be aligned 120 degrees out of phase with each other. I just put one at 12 0'clock, one at 4 o'clock, and one at 8 o'clock. Seems simple enough

 

housing mark

DSC04862.jpg

 

pressure plate mark

DSC04863.jpg

 

flywheel mark

DSC04866.jpg

 

I didn't have a clutch alignment tool so I used the next best thing......a stripped out input shaft :grin:

DSC04874.jpg

 

Next I slopped up the splines with some of the Honda Moly 60 paste that I picked up from my local KawaHonYamaUki shop.

DSC04881.jpg

 

Then tossed the transmission onto the rear of the bike. I tried several times to use the "guide pins" that are supposed to make life so easy. After 30+ min and quite a bit of swearing I took out the guide pins and the damn thing slid right into place like it belongs there......So BMW, screw you and your guide pins :/

 

DSC04883.jpg

 

That was the end of the work last night and I began again this morning. The first thing I started doing was organizing the wires and hoses. Then I came across the real reason my bike let me sit last year on my morning commute. I assumed I had a failed side stand switch.......turns out I had a broken wire

DSC04885.jpg

 

Either way.....the switch has been bypassed for months, and I don't plan to replace it so I cut what was left of the wire down at the switch.

 

Then came the installation of the drive shaft. Make sure to mark the alignment of the U-joints

DSC04886.jpg

DSC04888.jpg

 

Then the installation of the swing arm

DSC04889.jpg

 

A look down the end of the swing arm. Notice the alignment mark

DSC04890.jpg

 

Next came the installation of the final drive

DSC04892.jpg

 

Once the final drive was on, I reinstalled the airbox and started lowering the rear frame. This is also about the time Terry showed up to help with moral support and steal my RID so he could troubleshoot his own bike problems. No pictures here......we were busy BSing and I was running on autopilot.

 

Once I had everything tightened down and the rear suspension back on, I turned my attention to the exhaust. My exhaust has had a rough life. It cracked by the head pipe last year, and I decided to cut out the Catalytic Converter. Then a few months later the exhaust actually rotted around where the exhaust exits the can and started rattling and banging around while riding down the road. It was also getting EXTREMELY LOUD. I was having trouble hearing my Sat radio or my intercom. It was basically like running an open exhaust. Soooooooo, I treated myself to a replacement exhaust. I landed this beauty for $50 off of Ebay. Hardly any discoloration and still shiny from head to tail. I also figured it couldn't hurt to toss in a new O2 sensor while I was at it.

Exhaust, old and new

DSC04897.jpg

DSC04896.jpg

 

Once the exhaust was on, I threw the wheel back on and this thing is starting to look kinda like a motorcycle again

DSC04901.jpg

 

Then I put the battery back in, gas tank back on, threw on the seats, double checked all the important stuff, turned the key and hit the starter. It fired right up.

DSC04903.jpg

 

I then proceeded to take a quick jaunt around the neighborhood and make sure everything was working properly. The bike was shifting great......still sounded BMW clunky, but it felt smooth and precise. Once I got back I noticed that my exhaust is still about 1 1/2" to far back. My center stand doesn't line up with the indentation for it on the exhaust. Its still hot, so I took a break and figure I will finish it all up tomorrow. If all goes well, I'll be commuting to work Monday morning

 

One last look at my new shiny exhaust

DSC04905.jpg

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I am duly impressed. If you ever want to put on a national tech-daze, I'm signing up.

Bruce

 

ugh....maybe next year. and I only want to supervise....I've had enough of working on this thing for awhile

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Next came the installation of the final drive

DSC04892.jpg

 

Looking good Keith :thumbsup:

 

My only contribution to this effort is to suggest you replace the white zip-ties on the final drive boot with black ones as the white zip ties & ultraviolet light don't get along too well.

 

 

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Guys, after going down to Keith's and talking to him about his project, all I can say is... WOW! He discussed everything that he did like he was and old hand at it. A very knowledgeable and hands on kinda guy. Even though I only got to witness a fraction of what was going on, I learned a great deal about how the process was done. Great job and hope you get another 100k out of the bike with all smooth sailing. Thanks again for letting me borrow the RID. I owe ya one... or two. Terry

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Joe Frickin' Friday
I then proceeded to take a quick jaunt around the neighborhood and make sure everything was working properly. The bike was shifting great......still sounded BMW clunky, but it felt smooth and precise. Once I got back I noticed that my exhaust is still about 1 1/2" to far back. My center stand doesn't line up with the indentation for it on the exhaust. Its still hot, so I took a break and figure I will finish it all up tomorrow. If all goes well, I'll be commuting to work Monday morning...

 

BTDT. Feels good to have it back together, doesn't it? :) Congrats. :clap:

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BTDT. Feels good to have it back together, doesn't it? :) Congrats. :clap:

 

Kinda freaky actually.........I am amazed at how clumsy I felt this morning. Its also much colder now than it was a month ago. Time to pack away the Airflow and Savanna 2 gear and go back to the cool weather gear.

 

and Mitch.....Thanks again for the box of stuff and the support. Those tools and fixture took all the guess work out of it and made the whole procedure very straight forward

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  • 1 year later...

Don't be a stranger John. If you have any questions or need help, don't be hesitant to ask.

 

Are you having gear box issues, or is this going to be a preventative thing?

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  • 1 year later...

Fascinating thread. Thank you for taking the time to share.

 

I ventured into my own personal no-mans land a couple weeks ago by removing the left panel. I thought it was a big deal at the time... I know better now.

 

Your job looks like open-heart and brain surgery combined (and done at the same time by the same person)!

 

Nice work!

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