doc47 Posted July 17, 2008 Posted July 17, 2008 I've done this job before but don't have my shop manuals with me in Montana. I also don't have most of my tools. I'm having a friend ship me the tools I'll need that I don't have here, such as metric allen sockets and my torque wrenches. Can anyone advise me on any other tools I'll need to do the job, other than the usual metric sockets, open-and-box-end wrenches, etc? eg: are there any particularly large wrenches I'll need? How about for replacing the clutch disc, which I plan to do while I'm in there? I can't seem to remember anything unusual. Also, can anyone email me the relevant pages from the Haynes Manual? I'd be much obliged....
Tank Posted July 17, 2008 Posted July 17, 2008 How about I just send you the manual for the r1100rt and when you are done you send it back?
doc47 Posted July 17, 2008 Author Posted July 17, 2008 Tank, that would work jes' fine. Still got my address?
Anton Largiader Posted July 17, 2008 Posted July 17, 2008 Just make sure that isn't the manual that tells you to completely remove the rear subframe.
Mike T Posted July 17, 2008 Posted July 17, 2008 You'll need the following: 30mm Socket or wrench for swing arm pivot lock nut 12mm hex socket for swing arm pivot screw Heat Gun to soften lock-tight on swing arm pivot screws A tool to lock (hold) the fly wheel in place. Go to advrider.com wisdom where they tell you how to make one out of a U clamp. Link below: http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/oilhead_tdc_mandrel.pdf Guide pins to remove and install the gearbox. You can make these yourself. Go to Hardware store and buy four 8mm(?) 4" bolts and hacksaw the heads off and then use the hacksaw to cut a slot in end of the bolt so a flat head screw driver can fit in it to install and remove the guide pins. Take a gearbox mounting bolt with you to the hardware store to verify that 8mm is the right thread size. You should have new clutch housing bolts and washers on hand if you're going to replace the friction plate as these are one time use only. A clutch alignment tool is helpful but not absolutely necessary. Have some Honda Moly 60 paste on hand for the splines. You'll need a decent ratchet strap to lift up the rear of the bike to get the airbox out. You'll need some Red lock-tight to reinstall the pivot bolts on the swing arm.
NonComp Posted July 17, 2008 Posted July 17, 2008 The two metric sockets that I had to buy to do this job, that aren't in the usual socket set lineup, were 16mm and 30mm. You'll need the 30mm for the locknut on the paralever pins. I think the 16mm was used to crank the engine over via the alternator belt pulley bolt. 1/4" and 1/2" drive allen key sockets also came in handy.
John844 Posted July 17, 2008 Posted July 17, 2008 For the locating pin, you can also just use a straight bolt without having to fabricate anything. It is a 8MM bolt at least 100mm long. For the 16mm, I had a standard socket SAE that fit right onto it. I couldn't see buying another socket just so the label would read mm instead of inches.
smiller Posted July 17, 2008 Posted July 17, 2008 16mm is almost exactly 5/8"... just don't let the bolt see it...
OoPEZoO Posted July 17, 2008 Posted July 17, 2008 if you have the factory tool kit, you don't need a 16mm socket. Just use the spark plug socket that is in the kit, it is a perfect fit for the crank pulley.
NonComp Posted July 17, 2008 Posted July 17, 2008 Seems to me that the 16mm is also used for a couple of the frame bolts???
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