97 R1100RT Shuts Down

[Tominator]

Looking for info on the HAL sesor, A few have swapped the sensor out as a precuationary messure or because they fail? One of my fellow RT's broke down on sat and after the bike sat for 30 minutes it ran for 30 secoundss and sounds like no spark. Fuel Pump is running....Montronic or should I change the HAL?

 

Tomas

[smiller]

What is the mileage on the bike? Was it recently exposed to any moisture?

 

The typical problem with the HES on the 1100 models is due to heat-related degradation of the HES wiring harness. The fix is to replace the HES harness wiring with some wire with high-temp insulation (cheap), or just replace the entire HES with a stock replacement (expensive.)

[Tominator]

85,000 KM...can just the wire be replaced? I will try that first. He's going to haul it over to my place tomorrow so I can inspoect the situation.

 

BTW You are correct, It was raiing bad the day he was riding....

 

Thanks

Tomas

[flars]

Yes - the wires can be replaced. Now to prepare you for the job ahead, lest you be unaware -

Unfortunately, the wires are inside a shielded sheath and they are nigh-onto impossible to get out of the sheath. Plus, the wires terminate in molex connectors inside a multi-pin connector up under the gas tank. The connectors have to be removed from the multi-pin connector and replaced (or if you are really good, reused).

There is someone here who has the wires bundle already sheathed, but you still have to redo the molex connectors.

[smiller]

BTW You are correct, It was raiing bad the day he was riding....

Pretty reasonable likelihood of it being the HES then. The problem area is under some shrink tubing where the harness is clamped to the HES plate. You have to remove that heat-shrink tubing and examine the wires to verify the problem... my guess is that you'll find the insulation cracked. The best replacement is Teflon-insulated wire (available at a good electronics store, or via the Internet) which will take all the heat the engine can dish out and last forever. FWIW I had no problem getting the wires out of and back into the sheath, but then again Teflon insulation is pretty slippery. You will need to do some splicing up at the connector. As was mentioned bmwmick sometimes has pre-made wiring kits to sell, you might try sending him a PM.

 

[Tominator]

I have a multi Pin tool and have used them in the past...can the wires not be solders and sealed via heat shrink tubing close to the shieled sheath? Is there a certain wire size/ quaility wire to use?

 

Tomas

[smiller]

Here's the scoop...

[bmwmick]

Tomas,

Read through this thread:

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=1&Number=340676&Searchpage=1&Main=14979&Words=%2Bwire+%2Bsource+bmwmick&topic=0&Search=true#Post340676

 

and read all of Dana's articles on the sensors and testers here:

http://users.rcn.com/dehager/

 

Mick

[Tominator]

Holy Hand grenade Batman! Someone did a excellent job with this step by step document!

 

Thanks

Tomas

 

[John844]

I am dealing with the same issue right now. I did find an online source to sell wire by the foot, but they don't have all of the colors to match the factory wiring. They have 3 colors. Shipping will be more than the wire.

 

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/milw22759.php

[smiller]

I am dealing with the same issue right now. I did find an online source to sell wire by the foot, but they don't have all of the colors to match the factory wiring. They have 3 colors. Shipping will be more than the wire.

 

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/milw22759.php

Try Action Electronics. $13 bucks and change for 25 feet of 22 gauge plus around $8 shipping. One color but you can label the ends.

[eddd]

Here is a link to my experience replacing the wiring last December.

 

I still have plenty of tape, so if you need some send me a PM and I'll mail you enough to do the job.

[Tominator]

Thanks! But I managed to find the cable locally by the foot!

 

Thanks to all that replyed!!!

 

Tomas