AIRHEAD95 Posted July 12, 2008 Posted July 12, 2008 Today while doing the off idle adjustment on a TBS I noticed a miss as I was increasing the rpm. I attached a timing light & watched the light as it was connected to each plug wire and the miss is on the left side. I checked the fault codes with an analog voltmeter & after connecting the #1 plug to ground it gave me a 1133 code. Hall sensor #2. When I repeated procedure I didnt get any codes.The bike is a 99RT with 66k miles. Valve adjustment is per spec. & it has new plug wires. The coil tested ok at ambient temp. a month or so ago. There was no difference with a different set of plugs. Is it possible for one side of the coil to go bad? Or could it possibly be the dreaded hall effect sensors going south?
bmwmick Posted July 12, 2008 Posted July 12, 2008 If you actually saw the left side plug misfiring, I would replace that wire and maybe the coil. What resistance do you see from one plug connector the the other (leaving the wires plugged into the coil secondaries)? If the HES was your cause, both cylinders would be failing. The 1133 can be ignored most of the time if the bike runs at all. The lower sensor is related to fuel, not spark and can be spurious(it comes and goes with no apparent failure). It helps if we know the year and model of bike too. Mick
smiller Posted July 12, 2008 Posted July 12, 2008 If you actually saw the left side plug misfiring, And I think that's an important point... I don't know that I would trust a timing light as an accurate indicator without some additional testing to back it up...
AIRHEAD95 Posted July 12, 2008 Author Posted July 12, 2008 The bike is a 1999 R1100RT with 66K miles. Both spark plug wires are new. I installed them about 2 weeks ago. I got 18.58 K Ohms from connector to connector
big-t Posted July 13, 2008 Posted July 13, 2008 I don't know that I would trust a timing light as an accurate indicator without some additional testing to back it up... An inductive timing light is a great way to check for spark related misfire. I have taped them to fuel tanks and windshields over the years to determine whether the problem is fuel or spark related. No spark = NO light The break in the flashing sequence is quite noticeable and you can move it from wire to wire to determine which cylinder is at fault.
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