cali_beemer Posted July 12, 2008 Posted July 12, 2008 Well, the bike has felt a bit weird every now and then so I decided the check for play in the rear end. Sure enough if you grab the top and bottom of the tire the there is a bit of play. If you grab the front and back of the tire there isnt any. To be on the safe side I decided to change the final drive fluid and the oil was clean with no signs of metal what so ever. Now if I remember right this means that most likely I need to either replace or tighten the pivot bearing. Am I correct? The pivot bearing being the point where the traction bar connects to the bearing case down low, correct? Does anyone know if there is a torque to set that to? or do I just tighten until theres no play at the wheel? or do I have to replace that bearing? I think I am on the right track but please soeone chime in if I am not going about this right at all. This is on a 04 GS if that makes any difference.
ninermatt Posted July 12, 2008 Posted July 12, 2008 The pivot bearing is where the final drive connects to the drive-shaft housing. You can tighten it up at the inside of the drive-shaft housing but chances are that the bearings are junk. I would just go ahead and replace them.
cali_beemer Posted July 13, 2008 Author Posted July 13, 2008 Has anyone used these? http://rubberchickenracinggarage.com/bushings.html
OoPEZoO Posted July 13, 2008 Posted July 13, 2008 I have them on my RT. Easy install, and I've put almost 30k miles on them since. Everything is still nice, tight, and smooth. I would give them a
cali_beemer Posted July 13, 2008 Author Posted July 13, 2008 I have them on my RT. Easy install, and I've put almost 30k miles on them since. Everything is still nice, tight, and smooth. I would give them a Thanks Keith, I think I may go ahead and do it. Are there any special tools needed to change them out? Did you use the recomended Honda moly lube on them? Do you just coat the bronze before putting them in? I havent taken the drive apart yet and was debating on adjusting them or replacing them.
OoPEZoO Posted July 13, 2008 Posted July 13, 2008 I think I just used a tube of regular old white lithium grease on them. There are really only 2 types of grease you will find in my garage.....white lithium grease, and heavy duty CV/axle grease. I know I didn't use the axle grease ........and yes, just lube up the bronze bushings and slap it all back together. The only somewhat special tools needed for removing the final drive are the 12mm allen wrench that is needed to remove the pivot bolts, the 30mm socket needed to remove the lock nut on the pivot bolt, and a heat gun (not a hair drier) to release the locktite on the pivot bolts. I have a full set of large impact sockets from Harbor Freight that included a 30mm socket. The 12mm allen wrench was a little more tricky to find. After a search, I found the proper size at Sears 12mm (HERE) which worked fine for disassembly. Then for reassembly I chopped off the last 1 1/2" of the allen wrench so I would have something to properly torque the bolts back together with. I then stuck the chopped piece of allen wrench into pivot bolt, stuck a 12mm socket onto the other end, and torqued it to spec. Take it easy on the locktite (it calls for RED, I prefer to use blue). After about 500 miles, you should loosen the inside pivot bolt and retorque it. This might help a little. If you run into anything fun and/or exciting, just shoot me a PM Final Drive R&R
Bprimm Posted July 14, 2008 Posted July 14, 2008 Play at pivot bearings usually shows up when grasping at 3 and 9 o'clock. If wheel is moving relevant to the final drive unit...crown bearing wear. A small amount of movement isn't necessary a problem. Below is a quote from Stan that explains further. You can always take it to a pro and usually get that part checked out for free. It depends on where the play is coming from. If it's the final drive pivot pin bearings, you will be fine. If the play is developing because the big crown bearing is starting to fail, you are at risk of having a complete failure on the road. How to tell: Using two people you need to wiggle the wheel in the way that you feel the play while touching with your fingers to find where the play occurs. If it's between the wheel and the final drive, then you have a serious problem (crown bearing). If it's between the final drive and the swingarm, then it's not so serious (pivot bearings). Another clue: If you spin your rear wheel and it feels rough, like a bad bearing, you have a bad crown bearing. You need to ignore the rubbing of the brakes and feel for a low frequency rumbling. It might help to push the brake pads away from the brake disk to do this. What to do: Crown bearing - I would have it replaced before the trip. Best to see a dealer unless you are mechanically talented. There are critical adjustments that should be checked (in my opinion) that require quality measuring tools most of us do not own. Pivot bearings - Sometimes the play in these can be adjusted out. I did so on my '02 but it came back again and that time not only was the bearing bad but the pin too. I think it best to just bite the bullet and replace these bearings, skipping the adjust it out attempt. The good news is this could wait until you get back from your trip. Stan _________________________ Stan (and Jan) Walker Simi Valley, CA '96 R1100RT, '02 R1150RT, F650's
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