Colorodans, I need trip planning advice, RMNP.

[markgoodrich]

My wife and I are planning a ride/hike trip to Rocky Mountain National Park, and could use some planning/timing/lodging advice. We like to go to a single place and use it as a base for several days, doing long day hikes from the general area, then moving on to another base. We have no time constraint, although ten days of hiking usually is enough.

 

General suggestions are especially welcome, regarding where to stay, when to go to get best weather, less crowded conditons, etc.

 

Specific questions:

 

1. I know Estes Park is THE place to base, but what about Grand Lake? Remember, we want to go hiking every day. We are thinking about Grand Lake because we'll be arriving there via a circuitous route from Texas, getting our mountain riding fix on the way there.

 

2. Estes Park suggestions for lodging would be great. We could care less about luxury accommodations; clean rooms, comfortable beds, and we're set.

 

3. Particular hike suggestions would be great, too. We're good for all day, don't really mind other hikers, but don't want the "Park HQ viewing area" crowds of people who think they're seeing the park.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

[Joel]

I have 2 handicaps when it comes to lodging around RMNP -- I live too close, and I own a RV, so except for an anniversary stay at the Stanley Hotel (which did not live up to the hype, btw), I have no experience with local lodging that isn't a campground.

 

Hikes I like:

 

Lawn Lake

 

Gem Lake

 

Bridal Veil Falls

 

These will have a fair amount of hikers on the weekends, but not so many during the week.

 

As another side trip, consider renting a canoe to paddle out into Grand Lake. There are several rental places to choose from.

 

Beware that there has been a lot of tree kill from the pine beetle infestation, and that the western (i.e. Grand Lake) side of the Continental Divide has had more than the eastern side. For some people, that ruins the experience. It will take the forest a long time to recover.

[markgoodrich]

Thanks, Joel, your comment led to some research, and I believe we'll stay on the east side of the divide. Still welcoming all comments.

[Jerry in Monument]

We live a couple hours south of RMNP and take a couple of vacations there each year; Scotish Highland Festival (largest west of the Mississippi and we're Scots-Irish), Elk Fest (elk are down walking thru the streets) and sometimes Thanksgiving.

 

Of course, during any king of 'fest' it will be crowded. But the ability to have Guinness for breakfast makes up for a lot.

 

As much as possible, we try to stay at the YMCA of the Rockies , lodges or cabins; nice, not fancy accomidations (cabins have incredible views; heck everything up there has incredible views), reasonable rates, the cafeteria serves good food at reasonable, even cheap prices.

 

Be aware that snow is a possibility year round up there. Though rare, it can snow even in June-July-August.

 

There are more than enough trails with RMNP to keep you tuckered out at night. And the elk are like ticks on a sheep. Just don't make the mistake I did last year and get photos of a 6x6 bull from 4 ft away. But hey, the video is awesome!

[cali_beemer]

I just flew out to Denver to buy this 04 GS I currently have and I rode through Estes park and the RMNP. It was very nice and that town is like looking at a postcard. I only stopped briefly but being a Sunday this town is packed. I dont know if I would want to stay right ther in the town as I personally am not into crowds. I dont know what the crods look like during the week. Grand lake wasnt very grand IMO since I am used to the lakes and resorts here in California. Not dsaying there arent any good ones in CO but grand was a bit of a dissapointment from being a resort. Very nice scenery none the less and its where I would stay in order to get away from the crowds. PM me your email address and I will send you some pictures from my ride to get an idea of the area if you like. I have pictures of the grand lake area from when I rode through less than a month ago as well as overlooking estes park and the summit of the RMNP.

[motoguy128]

My wife and I thought Grand Lake was a nice quiet little lake side town. Nothing too special, but not too busy. I also wouldn't call it a resort town, but just a nice place to stay or visit. Another similar town I've been too was Bayfield, WI way, way north on Lake Superior. There's not a lot to do, but if your goal is hiking and sight seeing, all you need is a nice B&B to stay at with a clean, warm bed and hot shower.

 

My wife and I always prefer a small cafe or coffee house or local restaurant, to a larger town with lots of national chains. I assume most on this board agree.

[BeemerLover]

Mark, Jerry has it right, stay at the YMCA of the rockies near Estes Park. Rustic but very nice cabins and lodge rooms, relatively inexpensive, great comaradarie in the lodge in the evenings. They know a lot about hiking in the area.

 

There are three basic areas for good hiking. The east side of the park, accessed from Estes (yes its crowded but a walk down main street is actually a neat thing to do once) and the west side of the park, accessed from Grand Lake.

 

If Estes Park is over the top touristy, Grand Lake is sleepy and laid back by comparison. But downtown Grand Lake is cool.

 

The third area for hiking is south of Estes along the "Peak to Peak" highway (Colo hwys 7/72/119)from Estes through Nederland to Central City/Blackhawk. Included are hikes to gorgeous lakes on the east side of the continental divide and also, if you are up to it, you can climb 14,250' high Longs Peak. One of my favorite hikes starts at Peaceful Valley and goes up the canyon to the west.

 

From Nederland you can drop into Boulder which is a college town. The downtown area has a pedestrian mall with street performers and great restaurants. Juanitas for mexican.

 

The Central City/ Blackhawk is interesting. It is a true victorian mining town that has been transformed into an over-the-top glitzy gambling center. Probably not worth the effort but if you travel the dirt roads west of town you will see a cool cemetary and remnants of mining.

 

If you have time, go through the Durango area. Lots to do and see, especially a coal powered narrow gauge steam train that goes from there to Silverton and back through steep walled canyons. Lots of hikes in the area.

 

Gael

 

[markgoodrich]

Thanks for all the advice and suggestions. I think we'll do the YMCA deal, if they have availability. The hike suggestions are especially appreciated. Now, if we can just the the durn hail-damaged re-roof scheduled, we can get the heck out of the heat.

 

Rather than trudge across the plains through Amarillo, etc, we're planning to scuttle across west Texas on I-10 to Van Horn, then north to Artesia, NM, west to Cloudcroft, the first day, get up and out of the heat, then follow small roads up to the west side of RMNP, via Salida, Leadville, etc. We did the Durango/Ouray deal last year

 

Again, thanks to all for the replies.

[Jerry in Monument]

Mark,

Sounds like a great trip. Let us know how it goes.

 

I guess Lake Travis isn't so fun to get cooled off in this time of year, is it?

 

I remeber scuba diving off Windy Point for years. Summer sucks that far south for us Yeti.

[markgoodrich]

Y has unlimited availability from August 10th on...I'm hoping that's because school is back in session, and not because weather becomes iffy? Only other time I've ever been to the park was 1971, two up on a Suzuki two stroke twin, camping, and it snowed for three days in late June. Snow is a very, very bad word.

[Bud]

Y has unlimited availability from August 10th on...I'm hoping that's because school is back in session, and not because weather becomes iffy? Only other time I've ever been to the park was 1971, two up on a Suzuki two stroke twin, camping, and it snowed for three days in late June. Snow is a very, very bad word.

 

Yes, school starts for our grandchildren on the 7th of August.

[Twisties]

May I suggest that with 10 days you consider two or three bases? You might get This Book and consider some hikes in the area north of the park, in addition to in the park. I suggest this because you indicate a preference for getting a degree of isolation.

 

Estes Park is pretty crowded, trafficky and very touristy. That's fine for a while, but after ten days I'd be going batty. You'll get a very different atmosphere up on the Cache La Poudre.

 

Have a great time.

 

Jan

[markgoodrich]

May I suggest that with 10 days you consider two or three bases? You might get This Book and consider some hikes in the area north of the park, in addition to in the park. I suggest this because you indicate a preference for getting a degree of isolation.

 

Estes Park is pretty crowded, trafficky and very touristy. That's fine for a while, but after ten days I'd be going batty. You'll get a very different atmosphere up on the Cache La Poudre.

 

Have a great time.

 

Jan

 

Great idea, Jan, I was just fooling around with potential routes as your post came in; we'd already decided 4-5 nights at the YMCA was probably plenty, but being unfamiliar with northern Colorado, were sort of wondering where to go from there. I'll get the book, and find a place to stay up in that area. Solitude isn't quite such a big deal to us as it is to some folks, but glitz, shopping, that sort of thing, we could care less about.

 

Am I right in thinking we'll need to go out to Loveland/Ft Collins or west across to Granby-up to Walden, east to the area?

 

Lodging suggestions?

 

Great idea, I really appreciate it.

[Twisties]

Yes.

 

We stayed here:

 

 

 

 

 

Very friendly and hospitable, great location, but cabin was "rustic", e.g. shared outhouse, and shared not very nice shower. They do have some "modern" cabins too, but they were full. Many other establishments in the canyon with a range of quality/services. Be sure to inquire about eating arrangements. Not much high up the canyon.

 

We ate here:

 

 

On the west side of Cameron Pass. Was good. There are some places lower in the canyon on the east side, but we didn't stop.

 

Maybe one of the Coloradans can give you more local knowledge.

 

Enjoy the trip.

 

Jan

[BeemerLover]

Several of us from our Charlotte, NC BMW MOA are coming out in mid Sept for two weeks. We will rent R1200gs's and ride, not hike. Our Route might give you some ideas as to other areas to travel. Follow on the map: fly into Denver, then Boulder, RMNP, Grand Lake, Glenwood Springs (soak in the hot swimming pool), Aspen then Taylor Pass to Gunnison or Lake City, up over Cinnamon Pass to Ouray, Ouray to Telluride then Ophir to Durango, Steam train to Silverton and back, Mesa Verde and Back, Durango to Silverton then engineer pass to Lake City, back roads to Leadville, Mosquito Pass to Denver and then home. We will take the GS's into several remote ghost towns. An area that you might also look at is Steamboat Springs and Grand Mesa. Lots to see, easy to just ask the locals and then do something spur of the moment.

 

BTW, anyone out there want to meet us for dinner or join us for a day ride on our route?

 

Gael

[markgoodrich]

Just wanted to thank all who suggested the YMCA in Estes Park. Basic amenities, nice to come in from 13 miles of uphill hiking and not have to think about a restaurant, just go eat the basic-fare food at the "buffet."

 

Hiking has been fun and uneventful, with very small crowds once we get beyond the Fat People Zone near the trailheads. Ride up through New Mexico and Colorado was perfect weather, all twisty, all the time, learnt I could plug a tire and get it reinflated in 12 minutes (see thread if interested). We've got another week or so before we have to head back through Hell to Austin, where I understand it's eleventy-hundred degrees in the shade at midnight...exactly the weather you want at home when you're up in the cool mountains, no?

 

Thanks again for all the helpful suggestions.

[litigator]

Grand lake has a terrific brew pub. Nuff said.

[Jerry in Monument]

Just wanted to thank all who suggested the YMCA in Estes Park. Basic amenities, nice to come in from 13 miles of uphill hiking and not have to think about a restaurant, just go eat the basic-fare food at the "buffet."

 

Hiking has been fun and uneventful, with very small crowds once we get beyond the Fat People Zone near the trailheads. Ride up through New Mexico and Colorado was perfect weather, all twisty, all the time, learnt I could plug a tire and get it reinflated in 12 minutes (see thread if interested). We've got another week or so before we have to head back through Hell to Austin, where I understand it's eleventy-hundred degrees in the shade at midnight...exactly the weather you want at home when you're up in the cool mountains, no?

 

Thanks again for all the helpful suggestions.

 

Mark,

Sounds like things are good and the trip is going well. Glad to hear that.

 

Snow is GREAT!

 

Except in 1980, riding my Suzuki GS750 over Donner Pass going home to Montana. Six inches of snow and more coming down. Sacramento to Reno sucked that trip.

 

I'll be going to Hell, oops, Texas, Dallas, this weekend but in a cage. Thank God for the creators of A/C.

 

Enjoy RMNP and safe travels home.