2002 R 1150 RT battery installation ?

[Nick1150]

Hello,

 

Its time to change the battery for the second time. The first time I changed the battery, it was by coincidence during the service, so my local BMW service shop did the installation without me worrying alot. If I remember correct there are many screws to deal with and a lot of work to do. Is that correct?

 

Now I have to install my self the battery or possibly go to my local shop again. Is it an "easy" job or it will take more than an hour or two for my self to do it ?

 

In such a case its better to pay the xtra $ to my local shop and save the time to work. You see there are too many colleagues missing for holidays this time of year :-( .

 

Thank you for your help in advance

 

Nick

 

PS. Is there any thread with pictures I could have as a guide?

 

[Boffin]

It should take about half an hour to change the battery. You need to remove the left-hand fairing panel and the air-intake snorkel. The battery is held in by a rubber strap. Relase this then undo the ground terminal. Pull the battery out to the side and undo the positive terminal. Re-fitting is the reverse of removal. Whilst the battery is out you may consider fitting the jump-start terminal fitted to the 2004 RT, it makes emergency starting much easier.

 

Andy

[Nick1150]

Thanks Andy for your help. So half an hour, and even an hour is no big deal. I heard from a friend of mine that it was more time consuming !!! Anyway, I will do it this weekend. Thanks again

 

Whilst the battery is out you may consider fitting the jump-start terminal fitted to the 2004 RT, it makes emergency starting much easier.

Can you please explain about the jump-start please ? Is it a BMW accessory or just two self made cables with the appropriate connectors?

 

Thanks

[Boffin]

The post is fitted from the factory on the later R1150RTs.

 

You need parts 9 to 12 from this diagram on RealOEM.com.

 

It places a jump-start post under the riders seat, just above the air-cleaner.

 

Andy

[JDog]

Well, alright! I learned something new today. Wondered what that additional terminal from the positive was for! Could have used that info a while ago.

 

Now, for us dummies, how does one jump start?

 

 

 

[Boffin]

Well, alright! I learned something new today. Wondered what that additional terminal from the positive was for! Could have used that info a while ago.

 

Now, for us dummies, how does one jump start?

 

 

 

Your bike will also have a similar post on the rear of the LH cylinder head for ground, earlier bikes have no provision.

 

To jump start, connect jump leads ground to ground first, on earlier bikes any bit of solid paint-free metal on the bike will be fine. Then connect the positive jump lead Note: when jumping from a bike have it running, from a car have it stopped to avoid over-current damaging the bikes electrics.

 

Now wait 5 to 10 minutes to allow some charge into the dead battery otherwise it just acts as a slug in the system. Have a coffe/cigarette or just get bored.

 

Now, start the bike in the normal way and then disconnect the leads, positive first, ground second.

 

Andy

[philbytx]

Using a DMM, I discovered the best accessible ground location on the RT was the exhaust system !

 

[Nick1150]

Thnaks for the info.

 

Will do this weekend

 

[bmwmick]

Using a DMM, I discovered the best accessible ground location on the RT was the exhaust system !

 

The center stand brackets would be a better place than the exhaust.

If you happen to get an arc on the ground connection, it can quickly burn a hole in the pipes. Using the center stand brackets you are connected to the frame too.

 

Mick

[bmwmick]

Nick,

Here is a thread with pictures:

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=1&Number=117093&Searchpage=1&Main=12323&Words=%2Bjump+%2Bstart+bmwmick&topic=0&Search=true#Post117093

 

Mick

[gmcfadden]

As an alternative to the battery post approach, consider installing Deltran's Battery Tender Plus kit. (Call Deltran before ordering from the web as the one I needed for my 2004 R1150RT is not on their site yet. You can get it directly from Deltran or they will refer you to a site that sells the right one. The BMW batterys made by "Excide" take a special charging rate.)

Not only will this unit add life to your battery, but the wiring system makes jump starting very easy. The kit comes with a wiring harness that allows the pig-tail connector from the battery to the charger to be connected to another pig-tail connector that has the "standard" alligator clamps to clip to a car or bike battery. Note that the battery cable to charger cable pig-tail normally just hangs out from the bike wherever you choose. I carry the exit wire connections in the top case - just in case I need a jump.

I installed the wire that connects to the battery to the charger to exit in the opening where the 2 BMW "cigarette lighter" plugs are located. Out of the way, hard to see (unless you are looking for it), but easy to get to.

Hope this helps.

[Silver Surfer/AKAButters]

I use the top mounting bolt on the rear shock as a ground. Works well also.

 

Rich

[Mr. Frank]

A trick I use is to have an upside down plastic garbage can next to the left side of the bike to rest the battery on while I'm disconnecting it. Otherwise, you need three hands.

[TPadden]

..... The kit comes with a wiring harness that allows the pig-tail connector from the battery to the charger to be connected to another pig-tail connector that has the "standard" alligator clamps to clip to a car or bike battery. Note that the battery cable to charger cable pig-tail normally just hangs out from the bike wherever you choose. I carry the exit wire connections in the top case - just in case I need a jump...........

 

NOTE - you will have to use reverse polarity with your clamps! The non-alligator (SAE) end of the clamp harness is meant to be connected to a tender not a battery.

 

The covered (female) SAE pigtail connector from your battery is the + one - that is so it won't accidently short against the bike. If you look at the + (red) clamp wire and trace it you will also find it is covered since the tender + output is the naked (male) sae connector.

 

Hope this isn't confusing but in an emergency if you use the red clamp to a positive battery post - you better have some spare fuzes. BTDT

 

Pretend you are British and clamp the red gator to negative and black to positive.......

 

Tom

[Boffin]

[quote=TPadden

Pretend you are British and clamp the red gator to negative and black to positive.......

 

Tom

 

What makes you think we connect things backwards?

 

ANdy

[TPadden]

What makes you think we connect things backwards?

ANdy

 

Andy,

 

You just must not be old enough! Early to mid 60's English sports cars (MG's, Triumph's) connected things backwards. Surprised more than a couple of us older backward Yanks, something about driving on the wrong side of the road .......

 

Re: http://www.oconnorclassics.com/techtalk_neg.php

 

"MGs and many other British sports cars thru 1967 were wired at the factory with the POSITIVE battery terminal connected to the car chassis (GROUND). Thus the cars were labeled "Positive Ground."

 

Tom

[Boffin]

What makes you think we connect things backwards?

ANdy

 

Andy,

 

You just must not be old enough! Early to mid 60's English sports cars (MG's, Triumph's) connected things backwards. Surprised more than a couple of us older backward Yanks, something about driving on the wrong side of the road .......

 

Re: http://www.oconnorclassics.com/techtalk_neg.php

 

"MGs and many other British sports cars thru 1967 were wired at the factory with the POSITIVE battery terminal connected to the car chassis (GROUND). Thus the cars were labeled "Positive Ground."

 

Tom

 

Yes, this was standard for all British vehicle wiring including British motorcycles, but green went to positive and black to negative so the colours are different, which is what confused me.