OoPEZoO Posted July 6, 2008 Posted July 6, 2008 I had been collecting parts for the past few weeks with the anticipation of tearing the RT apart sometime soon for a somewhat major service. On Thursday, the last piece of the puzzle showed up at my door (new shocks from Works), and I figured this weekend would be a perfect time to tear into it. I also thought I would loosely document it. I'm an electronics/mechanical guy, not a photographer.....so bear with me My pile O' parts Alternator Belt Spark plugs Tranny/FD oil Engine oil filter Engine oil Galfer stainless steel braided brake lines Throttle cables and bowden box Quick disconnects for the fuel lines Works Performance Shocks with ARS Bike before I got started Removed tupperware Fuel tank removed First order of business was to pull the front shock and alternator cover. I then chopped the alternator cover in half with a recip saw (for ease of future maintenance), and installed a new belt Next I proceeded to install the front Works shock Next I decided to do the throttle cables and bowden box. First was to loosen and disconnect all of the cable adjustments (both throttle bodies, throttle cable, and fast idle cable). Notice I had a stowaway (bottom left). I left him there for good luck Next was to pull the bowden box from under the ABS module. This isn't too difficult, but I sure as hell wouldn't want to do it on the side of the road somewhere. Its kinda cruddy, but not as bad as I expected. Match the new cables up with how the old ones are setup in the bowden box Getting ready to connect the fast idle cable to the bowden box Fast idle cable connected Ready to rock and roll. I installed the box back to its proper location and made some rough adjustments to the cables per the BMW R1100RT official repair manual (2mm slack at the throttle bodies, 1mm slack at the throttle cable, no slack at the fast idle cable. I would go back and fine tune everything later when I got to the throttle body sync Next up, the brakes. I decided to start with the rear. I bled as much fluid as I could from the rear system by just pumping the peddle. Then removed the rear brake line. NOTE: When playing with brake lines it is ALWAYS advised to use brake line wrenches. All it takes is one rounded off bolt/nut to really ruin your day. Rear brake lines side by side New rear brake line installed. Pretty simple installation, no drama Now I have read conflicting reports about weather or not it is necessary to bleed the ABS circuits on the R1100, but since I was right there and the tank was already off.....I thought I would give it a whirl. I'm glad I did. I change my fluid every year, and never really see any ugly fluid come out. BUT that sure wasn't the case with that rear ABS nipple. I got some pure black nasty looking sludge, and quite a bit of it. I guess there must be some pocket at the top of the ABS module that doesn't really get flushed if you do a standard bleed. Anyway, I don't plan to go back and do it every time, but if you have the tank off for service it might not be a bad idea. I had a little trouble getting the air out of the system to get the bleeding started, but after a fit of spastic pedal pushing it seemed to work itself out and went smoothly. Here is a pic of the location of the rear ABS nipple. After that, it was on to the front Stock front lines Vs. SS braided lines These were a bit more of a pin to install due to the fact that they don't really twist, and when you try they contort into odd shapes. After a little fighting and rotation of the connectors with some pliers, they are on and look pretty good. The only thing I didn't really like is that stock bracket on the right fork is no longer useful, so I had to resort to zip tieing it temporarily until I can make a permanent fix for it at work this week. Reused the stock bracket off the left fork. I'm also glad I took pics because I just noticed that the ABS wire was swinging in the wind and went back down to the garage to secure it. The other thing I wanted to do was install a set of quick disconnects on the fuel lines. I've already needed to remove my tank while traveling on the road and couldn't do it due to not being able to shut off the fuel flow. After spending the money on the quick disconnects, picking a spot to attempt to install them.... .....fighting with all the damn fuel hose clamps, finding out the location I picked ended up kinking the fuel lines down by the throttle body, going to the parts store to buy new fuel line, fighting with all the damn fuel hose clamps AGAIN, and smelling like gas for the whole Holiday weekend............QUICK DISCONNECTS SUCK!!! I finally found a nice place for them to reside between the fuel pump and the little plastic bracket on the tank that directs the fuel lines. In hind sight, if I had the chance to do it over I would buy two fuel shut off clamps, throw them in my glove box and be done with it. The quick disconnects aren't worth the time, money, or the effort. [/rant] In the midst of all this, I also adjusted my valves, installed the rear shock, and did a throttle body sync. I still need to change the engine/tranny/FD oil, but I decided to put that off until I get home from work one day this week so the oil will be nice and hot. I also still need to properly set my preload on the Works shocks, but Danielle isn't so helpful with moving parts ......so that is also going to get put off a day or so until I can get my old man or one of my buddies over here to lend a hand. I took it for a quick 10 min ride to warm it up for the TBS and everything seems to be running well. It also appears that I fixed my climbing idle issue I was having (HERE) with the proper cable adjustments. Here is how I left the bike about an hour ago, all ready for the morning commute tomorrow. Maybe one of these weekends I'll actually have time to clean it. Almost to the 100k mile mark.....just a few more weeks
Bheckel169 Posted July 6, 2008 Posted July 6, 2008 Very impressive bit of work and you'll probably notice the difference right away. I, on the other hand, took apart my riding lawn mower, installed new cables, cleaned up the deck with grass crud underneath, put new oil in and changed the air filter. Much less technical but I still managed to rap my knuckles quite a few times to make me look like I really did some wrenching. Bruce
ninermatt Posted July 6, 2008 Posted July 6, 2008 I can't think of a better way to spend a holiday weekend. Great job, now go ride the fu*k out of her!
OoPEZoO Posted July 6, 2008 Author Posted July 6, 2008 Keith, Impressive. :thumbsup: No parts leftover? Nope....no parts leftover. I'm gettin pretty good at this
eddd Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 I'm looking forward to a report on those shocks. I should have my new set wating for me when I get back back home after the Un and a ride to Wisconsin. Our bikes are pretty close mileage wise. I'm sitting in Ely, Nevada with the odometer showing 96,755, but that doesn't represent the true mileage. My speedometer drive failed on the way to Torrey this spring. I'm actually at an estimated 99,200. 100,000 is just a coulpe of days away! Keep us posted on how the Works work for you.
OoPEZoO Posted July 7, 2008 Author Posted July 7, 2008 I'm looking forward to a report on those shocks. I should have my new set wating for me when I get back back home after the Un and a ride to Wisconsin. Our bikes are pretty close mileage wise. I'm sitting in Ely, Nevada with the odometer showing 96,755, but that doesn't represent the true mileage. My speedometer drive failed on the way to Torrey this spring. I'm actually at an estimated 99,200. 100,000 is just a coulpe of days away! Keep us posted on how the Works work for you. Mine is also a little higher than indicated in the mileage department. My speedo drive unit failed in Florence, Oregon a few years ago, and I didn't get it fixed until I got down to San Fran. I figured at this kind of mileage, whats a few more thousand I will update later once I get the suspension dialed in. I definitly have some work to do because I wasn't so thrilled with it this morning on the highway. We'll see how it does on the backroads home. This morning it was a little too '78 Buick when I was looking for a little more '08 Corvette. The throttle on the other hand feels awesome. It is SO much lighter than it was before. The new cables really freed everything up.
Sp8er8er Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 Great work and report Keith! I too will be interested in your feedback with the new shocks, as well as the SS brakelines. Is the Bowden box something I have to look froward to or can some preventative lube delay that process? (there is nothing lacking in your photo work. It was put together very well. )
Matts_12GS Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 I'm curious about the bowden box thing too. I have works shocks on my 96 and like them a good bit.
OoPEZoO Posted July 7, 2008 Author Posted July 7, 2008 I had no idea what to expect when I got in to the bowden box. The last thing I wanted to do was to tear into the bike only to find that I needed to order more parts. I figured that it was most likely the original unit, relatively cheap (~$30), and it couldn't hurt to replace it. After removing the old one, it appears that it was in perfect working order and would most likely work like new with a little cleaning and new cables. I easily think I could have reused it with no adverse effects. I think the problem was with my old worn out cables, not the box itself. It is now hanging out on the shelf in a ziplock bag for some future purpose........maybe I'll stick it back on the bike when its time to swap throttle cables again. I just wanted to make sure I was prepared for the worst before I started tearing things apart
WLCrook Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 Great! I'll be watching for feedback on the SS lines as well. Those are on my list of wants somewhere for my RT. Thanks for the excellent write up and pictures. Bill
russell_bynum Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 I had no idea what to expect when I got in to the bowden box. The last thing I wanted to do was to tear into the bike only to find that I needed to order more parts. I figured that it was most likely the original unit, relatively cheap (~$30), and it couldn't hurt to replace it. After removing the old one, it appears that it was in perfect working order and would most likely work like new with a little cleaning and new cables. I easily think I could have reused it with no adverse effects. I think the problem was with my old worn out cables, not the box itself. It is now hanging out on the shelf in a ziplock bag for some future purpose........maybe I'll stick it back on the bike when its time to swap throttle cables again. I just wanted to make sure I was prepared for the worst before I started tearing things apart I replaced mine at ~60,000 miles for the same reason. It didn't really need it, though. Now I just clean it out real good when I have to disasemble it to change cables. Changing throttle cables roadside isn't particularly fun, but it's not really such a big deal. The first time, we didn't have anything to clamp off the fuel lines, so we used a stick in one line, and the bolt that holds the back of the tank to the subframe for the other line. Whatever you gotta do to get home. I also took a dremel to the little bracket on the subframe that is positioned so that it is JUST in the way of the bowden box. I got tired of fighting with it, and since the little clip on my fuel pump wiring connector (the one that engages the bracket) was broken anyway (just like every other oilhead I've seen), I figured it wouldn't be missed. I agree about the quick disconnects. On paper, they sound like a good idea. Personally, I think they're a pain in the ass to deal with, even after you get them installed. Certainly the good aftermarket ones are better than the sh*tty BMW ones that are specially engineered to break and/or leak, but they're still much more trouble than they're worth. Given how infrequently the tank has to be removed, and the fact that you can solve the "fuel runs out all over the place" problem with $9 worth of fuel line clamps from Auto Zone, QD's just don't make sense. The stainless lines will make a big difference. I've got Galfer lines on all of my bikes. The biggest difference will be from the shocks. Once you spend some time getting them dialed in, you will have a TOTALLY different bike. You will finally see what an RT should be like.
eddd Posted July 8, 2008 Posted July 8, 2008 I'm curious about the bowden box thing too. I have works shocks on my 96 and like them a good bit. Did you have much trouble getting yours set up? I'll be looking for tips so I don't have a long drawn out setup period.
TyTass Posted July 8, 2008 Posted July 8, 2008 Great Post, Keith. I wish I could have made it there Sat to get in your way ... I mean help out.
russell_bynum Posted July 8, 2008 Posted July 8, 2008 I'm curious about the bowden box thing too. I have works shocks on my 96 and like them a good bit. Did you have much trouble getting yours set up? I'll be looking for tips so I don't have a long drawn out setup period. You will not have "trouble" setting up your shocks, but it will take time. It will take some trial and error and that just takes time. Don't try to rush it. Take your time, make one change at a time, and keep a log of what you're doing.
Yeeha! Stephen Posted July 8, 2008 Posted July 8, 2008 Is the Bowden box something I have to look forward to or can some preventative lube delay that process? Please don't lube it. A Dealer Service Tech lubed mine and it attracted even more gunk than in Keith's photos. On the way back from Colorado, my throttle got so stiff I thought the Throttle Meister was stuck "on". Pulled the Bowden Box apart and cleaned all that goop out and she was good as new.
tallman Posted July 8, 2008 Posted July 8, 2008 Russell, BMW has replaced the stock quick disconnect parts that were all plastic w/a combo design using metal/plastic. Much better. I replaced mine w/all metal years ago.
beemerFROG Posted July 8, 2008 Posted July 8, 2008 Great job and great post! I will be printing this one (In color of course, which I save for the good ones!) and add it to my binder of "How To's". I must say that I always get upset at people for "thinking of everything" when I am never able to ... so thanks for screwing up the gas line. It was a real sigh of relief when I read this knowing you had to get a second set of lines!!! LOL So, when can you schedule a ride out to Chicago to do my bike???
OoPEZoO Posted July 8, 2008 Author Posted July 8, 2008 Great job and great post! I will be printing this one (In color of course, which I save for the good ones!) and add it to my binder of "How To's". I must say that I always get upset at people for "thinking of everything" when I am never able to ... so thanks for screwing up the gas line. It was a real sigh of relief when I read this knowing you had to get a second set of lines!!! LOL So, when can you schedule a ride out to Chicago to do my bike??? No worries.....I screw up all the time. I was cursing up a storm fighting with the fuel clamps. I swear that they needed to be the next size larger. Then of course I ended up replacing metric fuel lines with slightly larger standard fuel lines, and REALLY had to fight with them. As far as coming to Chicago......been there, done that. It would take more than beer and food (my normal asking price for mobil maintenance) for me to make that trip again.
russell_bynum Posted July 8, 2008 Posted July 8, 2008 Russell, BMW has replaced the stock quick disconnect parts that were all plastic w/a combo design using metal/plastic. Much better. I replaced mine w/all metal years ago. Right. And really high quality metal QD's have been available from the aftermarket for quite some time. It's still an overcomplicated and expensive solution to the problem. Instead of having 4 connections (i.e. Four places to leak), with QD's, you have 10 connections (i.e. 10 places to leak), plus the QD mechanism itself and the O-rings. That's a lot of extra points of failure and a lot of money to fix a problem that could be fixed easily without adding any complexity or points of failure by throwing $9 worth of fuel line clamps from AutoZone into your tool kit. But hey....if you're the sort of person who likes adding unnecessary complexity and expense, then have at it!
tallman Posted July 8, 2008 Posted July 8, 2008 Complexes and expenses? Isn't that psychoanalytic territory?
russell_bynum Posted July 8, 2008 Posted July 8, 2008 Complexes and expenses? Isn't that psychoanalytic territory? Most likely.
KingBiscuit Posted July 9, 2008 Posted July 9, 2008 It looks like you're using "speed bleeders"....do they work well? I'm assuming once you swap out the stock bleeders, the speed bleeders stay in place...correct
russell_bynum Posted July 9, 2008 Posted July 9, 2008 It looks like you're using "speed bleeders"....do they work well? I'm assuming once you swap out the stock bleeders, the speed bleeders stay in place...correct Correct. I like 'em...although they're not really necessary if you've got a vacuum bleeder. Still...they're a good product and make one-person brake bleed a very easy process.
OoPEZoO Posted July 9, 2008 Author Posted July 9, 2008 It looks like you're using "speed bleeders"....do they work well? I'm assuming once you swap out the stock bleeders, the speed bleeders stay in place...correct Yup, what Russell said. They were on the bike when I bought it, so I use them. I don't know if I would have gone out of my way to install them myself, but I think they work well. More importantly, the speed bleeder bag is the absolute cats meow when it comes to bleeding brakes. A fellow member here got me one for helping him do a brake bleed on his 1150RT (Thanks John!), and I absolutely love it.
ChrisNYC Posted July 9, 2008 Posted July 9, 2008 Boy, does my RT need a weekend like that! Thanks for the post and the pics. I'm thinking of relocating out of NYC just to have space to wrench! ------------------ Chris (aka Tender Vittles ) Little '77 KZ400 in the Big Apple Black '99 RT for Everywhere Else,such as ...
beemerFROG Posted July 9, 2008 Posted July 9, 2008 As far as coming to Chicago......been there, done that. It would take more than beer and food (my normal asking price for mobil maintenance) for me to make that trip again. I don't blame you, it's getting through that whole Indiana/ south Chicago thing that sucks. My family is in Pittsburgh...can I PM you to hook up for a "ride to coffee" the next time I head out that way or are you closer to Philly?
OoPEZoO Posted July 9, 2008 Author Posted July 9, 2008 I don't blame you, it's getting through that whole Indiana/ south Chicago thing that sucks. My family is in Pittsburgh...can I PM you to hook up for a "ride to coffee" the next time I head out that way or are you closer to Philly? MUCH MUCH closer to Philly. 1 hour to Philly, 4 hours to Pittsburgh. I live right on the York/Lancaster county line
Tomthebomb Posted July 10, 2008 Posted July 10, 2008 I'm new around here, but just wanted to say thanks for the informative post. I also have a "how-to" binder in which this will become a part. Tom
VonDawg Posted July 10, 2008 Posted July 10, 2008 Thanks for a great post..I too will save this for reference, and You are more of a photographer than you let on..great pictures! Love those braided lines!
beemerFROG Posted July 10, 2008 Posted July 10, 2008 I don't blame you, it's getting through that whole Indiana/ south Chicago thing that sucks. My family is in Pittsburgh...can I PM you to hook up for a "ride to coffee" the next time I head out that way or are you closer to Philly? MUCH MUCH closer to Philly. 1 hour to Philly, 4 hours to Pittsburgh. I live right on the York/Lancaster county line Oh well, I'll just send you pics of the ride then. Did you want pics of the coffee too??
BMWGreenRT Posted July 20, 2009 Posted July 20, 2009 C'mon down to Asheville Chreese. We can have Tech Daze again Boy, does my RT need a weekend like that! Thanks for the post and the pics. I'm thinking of relocating out of NYC just to have space to wrench! ------------------ Chris (aka Tender Vittles ) Little '77 KZ400 in the Big Apple Black '99 RT for Everywhere Else,such as ...
OoPEZoO Posted July 20, 2009 Author Posted July 20, 2009 Wow.....talk about dragging a thread out of the depths
Willie Posted July 21, 2009 Posted July 21, 2009 Wow.....talk about dragging a thread out of the depths Man Keith, it only seemed like last year you put all that stuff on your bike. You wear those shocks out already? ?
RTme2 Posted July 21, 2009 Posted July 21, 2009 Keith, great post. How much did the Works shocks cost? My 2000 RT is in need. Where did you get them? Dave
OoPEZoO Posted July 21, 2009 Author Posted July 21, 2009 Honestly, I don't remember. It was over a year ago so I can't go back and check my CC statement. I'm thinking it was around $1200-1300. They have no venders, so you must order them directly from Works LINK
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