France, Belgium - Omaha Beach, American Cemetery, Ardennes

[sfarson]

Day #1

 

This week is the 61st anniversary of the WWII D-Day invasion in Normandy, FR... June 6-8 1944. Germany controlled much of Europe. The Allies needed a toehold in Europe to start the offensive. The beaches of Normany were selected. More details Day #2.

 

I found myself in Belgium on business the week before. A friend arranged for a BMW R1200RT rental out of Brugge, Belgium and I couldn't resist a five day journey through northern France and Belgium. My sweet wife gave it her blessing.

 

The sun made a significant presence only twice during the five days! When at the Omaha Beach area (fortunately) and the last day when riding through the Ardennes. Otherwise, it was showers, cold, wind, downpours, and generally blustery conditions. Ah... memories, but limited pictures and only one video (Day #5). Still one of the best rides for me ever. And when one is dry and warm, no big deal.

 

Here is the ride... counter clockwise from Brugge, Belgium...

 

Brugge, Belgium is a popular destination for many. The city survived WWII intact, and I was told a German commander was ordered to bomb it but he elected not to given its beauty. Early morning of Day #1 before the main square became filled with visitors...

 

Had more work during the day and didn't leave until 4:00p. I stayed at a friend's house and here's a pic of the bike just before departure. Sweet bike... just right for the journey and conditions ahead...

 

And this is it for Day #1. Shortly after, on the way to Calais, FR. I was hammered with rain and hail... cars pulling over, parking under overpasses. I pulled over once to fix my riding pants for rain was pouring into the boots!

[sfarson]

Day #2

 

This is a big day.

 

I used the heater in my Calais, FR room to dry the clothes (like the socks and boots) and then loaded up the bike in wind and rain. Wanted to first explore the coastline and get off the main highways. This is where I had my first taste of rural towns of France. Really liked how the structures were tucked together in an intimate or cozy kind of way... small businesses, a hotel/tavern, homes. This is after passing through the community of Escalles just west of Calais. The English Channel is about a mile to the left.

 

Getting closer to the Normandy Beaches. Here I'm ready to cross the Seine river at le Havre as it empties into The Channel...

 

Wrong! It was just a bridge over a nearby canal. About a mile later, here's the bridge...

 

OK. I make it to Bayeux at 2:00p and find a small hotel room. The sun comes out. I ride to Omaha Beach and the American Cemetery. If you ever saw the movie Saving Private Ryan, this is where the opening scenes happen. More importantly, this is where history happened. Many web sites devoted to this. One with background and historical images is here: http://www.normandiememoire.com/NM60Anglais/2_histo3/histo3_p4_gb.htm

 

I was surprised to see how many people were there. The big anniversary events were to happen days later. I waited in line to sign a visitors log at he visitors center, and this is when I started becoming quite emotional about the significance of this place. Thousands were there, and many were signing the log book from places in Europe and around the world. I stepped outside and snapped this image before walking among the resting places of fallen heroes...

 

The land was given by France to America in perpetuity. An Administrative office of the Executive Branch maintains and looks after this site, as well as other cemeteries and memorials around the world where Americans shed blood for the freedom of many. 9300 are buried here. Some markers note the identity is only known by God. There's also a memorial to 1300 who landed and fought, and were never found. Looking at one of the sections, to the north, The Channel below...

 

 

I then made the walk many were not doing... going down to the beach and imagining what the landing armies saw and faced. I stood on sand where many lost their lives. I was here at low tide. This is a wide beach. Starting thinking if the strategy would be to come in at high or low tide. This would be one long gauntlet of withering gunfire to face.

 

Looking to the left, was told these were remains of German defensive bunkers...

 

The views looking towards Omaha Beach...

 

 

A map at the overlook where I took the preceding pics...

 

Many organized tours going on at the same time. The woman here is speaking in French to a group...

 

A unit of French soldiers came to the memorial...

 

Before departing I found a section of the cemetery to take a picture with nothing but the markers of the fallen heroes...

 

On the ride out I paused at the small town of Colleville sur Mer, about a half mile from the cemetery. Note the before and after pics. One close to the church too, with G.I.'s in front. What a place, June 6-8 1944...

[sfarson]

Day #3

 

I left Bayeux for Le Mont Saint Michel under gray and drizzling skies. It was only 90 minutes away and I've seen pictures of this stunning place. A good site with images, background and history is here: http://www.monum.fr/m_stmichel/indexa.dml?lang=en

 

It was one of those tag and take-a-pic kind of visits. Dreary weather and other journey plans had this be a quick stop. Until the elevated road was built, the only access was during low tide. The tides are huge here with the water rushing in and out at times. The approach...

 

And zooming in a little. Very impressive when looking close at its immense proportions...

 

Didn't stop often with the rain falling to take a pic, but did so here at St. Hilaire-du-Harcouet, east of Mont St. Michel on the N 176 road. Delightful riding through these towns. This one is typical. Would sometimes see signs pointing to an American Cemetery maintained by local residents. After the D-Day invasion Allied forces fought through towns like these to reclaim them. By December they had retaken Paris and pushed German troops back to Belgium and close to the German border (See Day #5 below).

 

St. Hilaire-du-Harcouet...

 

Stayed in Orleans for the night.

[sfarson]

Day #4

 

I left Orleans knowing I needed to back to Brugge by the next afternoon. Opened the hotel curtains to a steady rain. I just laughed. Really wasn't bothered by this since I was on a confident bike and dry and warm, but again, my excuse for few pics.

 

I thought this one might be the only one of the day...

 

But after passing through a beautiful agricultural area SE of Paris (Plains du Champagne) I had a nice ride going north on a lonely D 982 and D 977 south of Sedan on the Belgian border. Small town after small town. Every one seemingly with a beautiful and old church in the center. Could always see the church steeple first or most easily when approaching. For you, the Ride Report audience , I paused in the rain to take two pics.

 

Tiny Cernay-en-Dormois on D 982 north of the A 4...

 

And pausing at the 15th century church in the town (and the clock was right!)...

 

Stayed in Sedan, FR for the night.

[sfarson]

Day #5

 

I awoke, looked outside. Sunshine! Connected the helmetcam stuff and left for Belgium and the scenic Ardennes.. the forested region in the southern part of the country.

 

If you have a chance, take a look at this site and read about the largest land battle of WWII... http://helios.acomp.usf.edu/~dsargent/bestbulge2.htm Fascinating reading if you like history. The dense Ardennes are where Hitler thought he could spring a surprising offensive after being on the defensive following the D-Day invasion. OK, I'll stop. The link does a much better job than I presenting this.

 

All I have for this day is a streaming video as I ride a nice road (N 40) through small towns and the forest, location of much momentous history...

 

Southern Belgium, N 40 Through the Ardnennes Region - Streaming Video

 

Made it to Brugge by 2:00p. It was a great, memory-filled ride and trip.

[Francois_Dumas]

Wonderful report Steve..... I apologize for our lousy Spring !! I am about to embark on a boat ride in the north of our country today... we planned it months ahead, thinking June wouldbe 'summer'..... Gale force winds predicted and temperatures down to 13 C, with 60% change of rain .... go figure !!

 

Omaha Beach is awesome isn't it ? We spent one holiday near the beaches, and toured them for 5 days in a row, including the more in-land routes. I could stay another three weeks and not see it all.

 

The operation and the area involved were gigantic and this truly is one of the all-time biggest military feats ... and human drama. Always special to go there..... the country side and villages look so peaceful, and then to imagine what happened there 61 years ago.

 

We'll be going next weekend, but only have time for a 1-day tour. I am glad you got the Omaha pictures, we won't have time to get that far. I hope to get to st. Mère Eglise, where the paras landed in the middle of the German troops, and see part of the English invasion sector.. we missed Pegasus Bridge the last time ! :-)

 

Thanks again for your report and photos !!!

[Steve-C]

Excellent report!

 

Wierdly, I've been out in France 5 - 8 June, going from Calais - Reims - Tours - Calais. And the weather was lousy, except the one full day in Tours.

 

Glad you got a chance to see some of Northern Europe. I always enjoy my little visits there.

 

Steve

[drodg]

Great trip report and loved the video. I am sitting here in Indiana awaiting delivery of my new bike. It was fun to view through your helmet.

[sfarson]

Francois,

 

It was a great ride and visit. I mentioned to my wife I saved plenty for the both of us to do together on a return trip. She was so happy . So much to see.

 

Steve

[sfarson]

Excellent report!

 

Wierdly, I've been out in France 5 - 8 June, going from Calais - Reims - Tours - Calais. And the weather was lousy, except the one full day in Tours.

 

Glad you got a chance to see some of Northern Europe. I always enjoy my little visits there.

 

Steve

 

We might have passed somewhere! I was certainly in the area. Despite the weather I had an awesome time. Very much want to return. Seeing the U.K. is on my list as well. London and the tube is my only experience!

 

Steve

[sfarson]

Great trip report and loved the video. I am sitting here in Indiana awaiting delivery of my new bike. It was fun to view through your helmet.

 

Dave... I find myself watching the vids over and over, this one and others I've posted here. BTW, I clicked on your profile for I'm from Indiana... Indpls, Crawfordsville, Muncie, and with my dad in the car business spent many days at auto auctions and dealers.

 

Whatever new bike you're waiting for it will be worth it. These new BMW's are impressive. The RT I rented was outstanding.

[Traveler1]

Thanks for sharing these - great pictures.

[bart_vanreeth]

Great report and nice trip. This is actually my motorcycle playground you were riding in . I live at 10 km's from France near the french town Lille and abouth 40 km south of Bruges. Sometimes we go to Normandie or the Champagne for the weekend. Great roads, especially the smaller D-routes. Glad you liked it and didn't hate our weather that much

[Geraldh]

Great report and awesome pictures. Must have been something standing there on the beach.....

[Graham UK]

It's a pity we can't have some way of looking up where we all live when planning a trip. (If we can do this on this board, please tell me how). I was in Ypres 3, 4 & 5 June. Would be nice to meet up with some fellow riders in other countries.

Going from Le Havre to Bilbao via La Rochelle, Tarn Gorge, Lourdes (or something like that) from 16 - 30 July.

Anybody about during that time?

About Ypres, the destruction and loss of life that took place in Ypres and surrounding places in WW1 was unbelievable. The re-building is magnificent. Can't say any more, words will never do it justice, (at least not mine).

Graham

[Geraldh]

It's a pity we can't have some way of looking up where we all live when planning a trip. (If we can do this on this board, please tell me how).

 

You could probably use the Calendar feature located at the top of the page next to 'User List' to enter your event (trip details) and dates. This would only work if others checked the Calendar on a regular basis and entered their particulars as well.

[sfarson]

Great report and nice trip. This is actually my motorcycle playground you were riding in . I live at 10 km's from France near the french town Lille and abouth 40 km south of Bruges. Sometimes we go to Normandie or the Champagne for the weekend. Great roads, especially the smaller D-routes. Glad you liked it and didn't hate our weather that much

 

Bart... it was one of my finest trips ever, despite the weather . Very memorable and I'm looking forward to a return. The BMW hire came from the dealer in Ruddervoorde south of Bruges.

[sfarson]

Graham... I wasn't far from you when I was touring through the area at the same time. Noted your reference to YPres and have looked up this area on the web. Looks like a place of much tragic and momentous history.

[sfarson]

Great report and awesome pictures. Must have been something standing there on the beach.....

 

It certainly was. A memory I'll always have. A hallowed place.

[bart_vanreeth]

About Ypres, the destruction and loss of life that took place in Ypres and surrounding places in WW1 was unbelievable. The re-building is magnificent. Can't say any more, words will never do it justice, (at least not mine).

Graham

 

Thanks Graham, well said. I live 22 km from Ypres. WWI was very cruel and traumatising for our region. We may never forget....

[bart_vanreeth]

I'm always willing to give information or - when I have the time - be your guide here in the area. I know the region very well. There are some fantastic roads over here...

[Francois_Dumas]

Small hijack: Bart, do you know if bike riders need to have a reflective vest 'on board' as well in france, like car drivers?

We're passing through on Friday, on our way to a small village near Deauville !

[bart_vanreeth]

As far as I know bikers don't need the vest neither do you need the reflective sticker on the helmet (I believe french bikers need such a sticker now). Mmmm Deauville this weekend ?... now you're making me jealous. It's a nice ride down there..have fun & be carefull

(don't forget to take the road that passes Cape Gris Nez !)

[Blake]

Amazing! Simply amazing!! I wish I could have been there with you.....

[Boffin]

Small hijack: Bart, do you know if bike riders need to have a reflective vest 'on board' as well in france, like car drivers?

We're passing through on Friday, on our way to a small village near Deauville !

 

In France you must wear a helmet and have your headlights on (except for vintage/veteran bikes).

All other aspects of your bike and gear need only be to the requirements of your home country.

You must carry your licence and vehicle documents with you. You must be able to repair defective lights (except HID).

Watch your speed, though the French are not as bad as the Dutch in this respect

If you cannot pay any on-the-spot fines your motorcycle will be impounded until you pay. After 28 days it will be disposed of.

 

I love Deauville, it's faded charm and quiet beauty are so overlooked by most Brits, who tear through Normandy on their way to Brittany or points further south.

 

Cya, Andy

[Francois_Dumas]

and have your headlights on (except for vintage/veteran bikes).

 

You know, that's FUNNY ! For a country where the majority of the driving population always FLASHED their lights at me in anger over the past 30 years..... just because I always drive with my lights on ..... and they themselves at MAXIMUM turn their little 'parking lights' on until it gets REALLY dark !!

 

Alright, I better put an old box of lamps in the topcase then.. just in case... And getme a few spare bulbs later this month when the bike has his first service check :-)

 

Tnx Andy !

[Boffin]

and have your headlights on (except for vintage/veteran bikes).

 

You know, that's FUNNY ! For a country where the majority of the driving population always FLASHED their lights at me in anger over the past 30 years..... just because I always drive with my lights on ..... and they themselves at MAXIMUM turn their little 'parking lights' on until it gets REALLY dark !!

 

Alright, I better put an old box of lamps in the topcase then.. just in case... And getme a few spare bulbs later this month when the bike has his first service check :-)

 

Tnx Andy !

 

Ah Francois, if you had painted the lights yellow then the flashing would have stopped. In the past few years however, the French at last seem to have discovered that white lights let you see much better.

 

Cya, Andy