HID Low Beam Install on 1200RT

[swilson]

I finally finished my HID low beam install today. Came out great! I bought my HID kits from http://www.cqlight.ca/ I’ve purchased from them 3 times now and many friends have bought their kits as well… good company.

 

Most of what you see in this photo I completed a couple weeks ago. I created an aluminum bracket to hold the Centech fuse block in place using a couple of existing screws. The bracket also holds two 70A relays. One powers the fuse block when the key is on. The other was dedicated to the HID low beams.

 

My bike doesn’t have the speakers, so I had a ton of room behind the dash to mount the HID ballasts. I mounted them opposite each other on the mirror supports.

 

 

 

I cut a piece of aluminum and drilled holes though it help my mount the ballast. It sandwiches part of the mirror support and holds the ballast rigidly in place with no holes drilled into my bike. For info… if you buy your kit from CQLight I can tell you screws needed to fit the pre-threaded holes in the ballast housing are M4 0.7 pitch. I used 4 of them.

 

 

 

From researching on this site I knew many people are getting Bulb Error warnings on their dash when installing HID kits because CANBUS is looking for the correct resistance from the filament in the light bulb to know that the bulb isn’t burnt out… since the HID kits don’t have the correct resistance (certain kits have been designed to now have the correct resistance) CANBUS thinks the bulb has burnt out and displays an error.

 

Some people have fooled CANBUS by adding resistors to their wiring setups. I went another route. I used my factory low beam wiring to power a set of PIAA 004XT lights I added under the oil cooler. Since CANBUS sees a bulb at the end of the wiring you get no errors! Here is a wiring diagram of what I did. The rating on the relay is so high because I used it to power both HID low beams.

 

 

Here is the finished product. Sure makes those side marker lights look yellow… is there an LED replacement that doesn’t cause CANBUS errors?

 

 

While I was in there mucking around I installed some Hyperlites. They rock. I just wish someone would also come out with an LED bulb replacement for the stock brake light housing that is CANBUS compatible.

 

 

 

[HandyAndy]

Scott.

Nice install!

My RT has the speakers and I was still able to fit the ballast in exactly the same place!

However as the antenna is right above the right hand ballast it seems to pick up interference causing static on the FM radio on all but the strongest of stations!

I may look at relocating the antenna to the back temporarily to see if it solves the problem.

I don't use the radio very often so it has not been a problem so far.

 

Andy

[brinkjm]

Wow, nice installation.

 

Is that an old Toyota Land Cruiser in your garage?

 

Very cool...

 

 

[Semper_Fi]

Nice work, well thought out mounting areas.

 

Lights look great!

[Iwan]

looks great, i am thinking of doing the same install. BTW where did you get the trigger power of the Centech ? I haven't been able to find a correct place on my RT. On my GS I took it from the diagnostics plug.

 

[Rocket_Cowboy]

Very nice Scott!

 

I bought kits for doing the same to my RT, but haven't actually installed them yet. I like where you mounted the ballasts, and while I have the radio speakers, it's good to hear that there's still room enough to mount ballasts there.

 

My question ... what modification did you have to do to get the wiring from the ballasts into the nose where the bulbs are located? I didn't see any pics of that.

[Buckster]

Alternate mounting location for the ballast is under the headlight assembly. The ballasts are held in place with some strong double stick tape that I found at Home Depot.

 

 

I ran the wiring through the supplied grommet and connected to the stock headlight bulb connector. I have not had any issues other than the occasional failure to fire on one of the headlights that I think is actually due to a older weakening orginal battery.

 

 

The advantage to this location is the ability to remove the front fairing without having to disconnect a number of wires.. The thickness of the ballasts is important to clear the oil cooler during fitting of the fairing.

Buckster

 

[Rocket_Cowboy]

The advantage to this location is the ability to remove the front fairing without having to disconnect a number of wires.. The thickness of the ballasts is important to clear the oil cooler during fitting of the fairing.

Buckster

 

So, you're using the factory wiring to power the HIDs, rather than wiring them direct to the battery and using the factory wiring to trip a relay?

 

I've heard pros and cons both ways, and have the wire harness to power these direct from the battery while tripping the relay from the factory harness ... I just haven't decided which way to go.

[Tapatio]

 

I connected my HID's (slim size like yours) to the factory harness. 15,000 miles and no issues yet. My reasoning was the HID's pull fewer amps than regular H7 bulbs so I gambled that it wouldn't create any issues. It was a really simple install.

 

I recently added a yellow high beam and yellow side markers. During daylight hours it gets the attention of drivers and I feel a little less invisible.

 

 

 

[Buckster]

Yep, just plugged into the factory harness inside the headlight assembly. The VME HID kit that I purchased provided the grommet that the wires run through. Had to cut the hole in the covers. Since everything is attached to the front fairing, all I have to disconnect is the stock BMW plug to the headlight assembly. If and when one of the HID's fail to fire up (about once a month and only on cold start up), I let the motor idle for a minute then restart. Since the HID that did fire is warmed up, it draws less power on restart and the second HID fires up. I put an ammeter on the power wire to one of the HID's and watched it. On cold start up the amperage jumps way up over 20 amps (limit of my meter) then comes down to about 3 amps as the lamp warms up. The ZFE computer does not seem to mind the initial high draw. Had the HID's for about 9 months.

Buckster

[Buckster]

I have not noticed any interference with either AM or FM on the stock radio. Buckster

[TJRL]

Buckster - Please Help!!

 

I have a 2008 RT and fitted low beam HIDs but they killed the radio except for very strong stations. As I use the radio every day I had to remove the HIDs after many failed attempts to isolate the interference.

 

I really miss those HIDs and the set you have sound like the ones I need to purchase. Can you let me know the exact model number etc and how you wired them in so that I can have HIDs again?

 

Many thanks

Toby

R1200RT SE

 

[Buckster]

This is the kit that I purchased and installed VVME HID H7 w/ slim ballast Looks like the price is down from the $85 that I paid.

Again I mounted the ballasts below the headlight (away from the radio antenna and its wiring and the speakers). The install is is tight and I am careful when putting the front fairing back on to not pinch a wire. If you click the photos in my previous post, you can get an enlarged view. Buckster

[TJRL]

Buckster - Thank you for your advice, installation details and link. I purchased three of the VVME kits from your link and have just finished installing the two low beam units (my plan was to fit the high beam later).

 

Unfortunately my radio reception is again killed by interference from the HIDS!!! As I have used the same kit and think I followed your instructions exactly I am stumped by this. If anyone else uses the BMW radio and is thinking of installing HIDs, this kit does not work on my bike (2008 R1200RT SE).

 

[Swag]

Alternate mounting location for the ballast is under the headlight assembly. The ballasts are held in place with some strong double stick tape that I found at Home Depot.

 

 

I ran the wiring through the supplied grommet and connected to the stock headlight bulb connector. I have not had any issues other than the occasional failure to fire on one of the headlights that I think is actually due to a older weakening orginal battery.

 

 

The advantage to this location is the ability to remove the front fairing without having to disconnect a number of wires.. The thickness of the ballasts is important to clear the oil cooler during fitting of the fairing.

Buckster

 

Thank you Buckster for posting the way you did your HID's I just did mine the same way and they work great.

 

Thanks again,

Bob

[Toad]

Is it possible to hook these ballasts up to a Fuseblock or Eastern beaver PC 8 device? This would avoid the Canbus and ZFE stuff.

[Toad]

Well?

[ArthurKnowles]

Yes you can do this. I just finsihed the install using a FuzeBlock fusebox/relay system. I have three ballast under my lighting assembly.

 

I did run in to thje problem with the bulb fault indicator on the dashboard and am on the board today looking for the best solution. Last one I saw required wiring in a resitior to rmulate the bulb draw, but I want to see if anything new has cropped up or the best way to wire up the resistor.

 

As an FYI, I tried initially to wire them up directly to the stock wiring harness, but on my 09 the bulbs (all of them) failed to ignite. Every time I tried to start the motorcycle.

[FLrider]

Does anyone know if dealers will install an HID kit (not just an h7 bulb)?

 

Would the HID kit install void the remaining warranty if any?

[lvnvbiker]

HID would have no effect on your warr. if properly installed, and the dealer would be happy to put one in for you most likely but the bill would be frightening... It really is not that hard to do actualy, and seeing that your in FL I am sure that there are some locals that would be willing to help you out for way less. The guys is Spacecoast beemers or the Bcubed fellas maybe?

[scapaflo]

I just purchased some HID low beam lights from 1off and have not yey installed them. I searched around for instructions and came up with these web sights that may give you the confidence to DIY. Hope this helps!

 

 

http://1offmotorsports.com/files/Images/bmw_page/R1100/1off-bmw-1150rt-instructions.pdf

 

http://www.motorcyclehidlights.com/motorcycle_hid_installation_video

 

http://1offmotorsports.com/p-2704-bmw-k1200-and-k1300r-hid-installation-instructions.html

[FLrider]

Just helped a friend install a set of HID's on a his 09' 1200 RT. The instructions called for a 30 amp inline fuse. Why would we need an line fuse?

 

We simply plugged in the wires from the ballast to the stock headlight wiring plug. Fired right up.

 

Yes, we are getting the bulb out error light on the dash but I'm pretty sure that has to do with amps CanBus is expecting versus getting.

 

If we were to install an in line fuse, what wire would we tap into? I suppose we could tap into the + wire of the headlight wire but then where would you run the other side of the fuse line to. Again, the HID's draw power from the stock harness.

 

We got it working but it was so simple to hookup I'm thinking we made a mistake somewhere???

 

 

 

Would it be safe to say that the instructions pertain to auto installs or installs on bikes with fuse panels?

[LeftCoastMan]

Just helped a friend install a set of HID's on a his 09' 1200 RT. The instructions called for a 30 amp inline fuse. Why would we need an line fuse?

 

We simply plugged in the wires from the ballast to the stock headlight wiring plug. Fired right up.

 

Yes, we are getting the bulb out error light on the dash but I'm pretty sure that has to do with amps CanBus is expecting versus getting.

 

If we were to install an in line fuse, what wire would we tap into? I suppose we could tap into the + wire of the headlight wire but then where would you run the other side of the fuse line to. Again, the HID's draw power from the stock harness.

 

We got it working but it was so simple to hookup I'm thinking we made a mistake somewhere???

 

 

 

Would it be safe to say that the instructions pertain to auto installs or installs on bikes with fuse panels?

 

I bought the 1offmotorsports version of the HID which did not require an inline fuse. They even offer a CANBUS adapter when you do get an error (I didn't).

 

Anyways, wouldn't the CANBUS system handle the issue, replacing the need for an inline fuse?

[FLrider]

 

Anyways, wouldn't the CANBUS system handle the issue, replacing the need for an inline fuse?

 

I guess so. This kit doesn't offer a CANBUS correction option. From reading other posts, looks like the answer is a resistor. Now where (& how) exactly I would tie that in is beyond me.

[pdes]

All this DIY hassle!! Got mine fitted by the dealer for £300. Well worth it!