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Taking the rear tire off.....


bowcop

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Last night I took off my rear tire to just see how it was done, never having tinkered with it before....It was a bit of a struggle to line the bolts back up for putting it back on. My question is....Is there anyway to screw this up? I have not ridden it since I put it back on. Forgive my ignorance on this!

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The big issue is to pretorque in a criss cross pattern per your riders manual, then do a full torque criss cross pattern.

Do not fully torque on the first go around! And no lube or anti sieze on the bolts!

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I did do the criss cross tightning, and them all 4 in a circle.....It seemed to spin ok.......Should I go for a quick test ride before embarking on a long ride?

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Everything is supposed to be clean and dry before you put it all back together -- bolts, spacer, wheel mating surface. Be sure to use proper torque.

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Jeff from Massachusetts
I just used the air gun to torque them down....is this bad? Before I ride........Please advise!

 

 

Your BMW has many aluminum parts that will strip if over tightened. If you plan to do work on your bike go out and get a Haynes or Chalmers repair manual. When we all said that you need to torque your lug bolts, what we mean is that there is a specific torque settings. For example on my 2000 R1100RT the torque settings are to tighten rear wheel bolts initially to 50 NM (nanometers) or 37 foot-pounds then tighten again to 105 nm (77 foot-pounds) This is done with a torque wrench. I would say the rear wheel bolts are forgiving and you most likely did not do any damage but you should loosen the bolts and torque them correctly

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I did do the criss cross tightning, and them all 4 in a circle.

 

 

Just be sure you did the preload/torque first (I beleive around 40ftlbs,, then you torqed them to full value (I'm guessing....70+ ftlbs)

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I just used the air gun to torque them down....is this bad? Before I ride........Please advise!

Yes, very easy to apply way too much torque (or too little). I personally would loosen them and retorque using a torque wrench (I use a beam type cos they are hold their accuracy for longer and with more abuse).

Andy

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My question is....Is there anyway to screw this up?

Not unless you are a total dork when it comes to wrenching. Just follow the star (criss-cross) pattern for torquing this wheel (or any car wheel) to the spec and you should be fine. thumbsup.gif

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...tighten rear wheel bolts initially to 50 NM (nanometers)

 

I believe that's newton meters. You'd need an awful small torque wrench to apply one billionth of a meter! wink.gif

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Last night I took off my rear tire to just see how it was done, never having tinkered with it before....It was a bit of a struggle to line the bolts back up for putting it back on.
Tires have bolts?

 

wave.gif

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Last night I took off my rear tire to just see how it was done, never having tinkered with it before....It was a bit of a struggle to line the bolts back up for putting it back on.
Tires have bolts?

 

Yeah yeah yeah! Ok ........The WHEEL! dopeslap.giflmao.gif

wave.gif

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bowcop,

 

As you may surmise, using an air wrench to "torque down" any bolt (rear wheel, for example) may save time and energy yet does nothing to the cause of "application of a specific torque value, e.g., 75 ft lbs" to the fastener. I strongly recommend chucking the air wrench and its chuck and employing an actual torque wrench when "torquing down" a fastener; only in this manner will you confidently apply the specific torque value.

 

Wooster w/bear element bow

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