ragtoplvr Posted February 9, 2008 Posted February 9, 2008 2002 R1150 RS 44K Going to do the cam chain tensioner. I think I have the wrong parts. In looking up the parts I find 11312325563 listed as a cam chain tensioner upgrade kit for $301.00 WTF!!! Is this true! Is there any harm in putting up with the noise from the current one, which is annoying. It will not break my precious bits inside will it. It is a design deficit, they do not have to make such a profit. The parts listed in the excellent Advrider upgrade 11-31-7-656-922 and 11-31-1-340-741 do not come up as found on the online fiche they were supposed to be less expensive! When I ride with my harley rider friends I have to start up last because I am embarrased by the noise, and then I have to go by feel because DOG knows I will never hear mine start. I enjoy way too much being able to outrun, out corner, out brake, and outdistance all of them, but I wish the bike did not rattle so much. Then I would have it all!!!! And I want it all But for $301!!!! when it is their screwup Advice please Thanks in advance Rod
smiller Posted February 9, 2008 Posted February 9, 2008 The $300 solution is from a previous revision, the current tensioner parts set should be around $50. Here was my Chicago BMW order from 2005 (prices are probably higher now): PN Description Qty UnitCost Extended Cost 07119963308 SEAL RING * S 1 $0.16 $0.16 11317656922 PISTON S 1 $28.40 $28.40 11317688629 CYLINDER S 1 $19.20 $19.20 I'm not sure why you're not able to pull it up, maybe the numbers have changed yet again? Call Chicago BMW and they will help you sort it out.
T__ Posted February 9, 2008 Posted February 9, 2008 1ea)--13541341797 Throtle body "O" ring (optional) 1ea)--07119963308 seal ring 1ea)--11317656922 piston 1ea)--11317688629 cylinder Call Mark at Chacago BMW (20% off list price) 1-800-262-9150 Twisty
ESokoloff Posted February 9, 2008 Posted February 9, 2008 Are those part #'s good for a 03 1150RT also?
T__ Posted February 9, 2008 Posted February 9, 2008 Are those part #'s good for a 03 1150RT also? Eric, should be unless superceded to newer numbers.. Those Part numbers are a little older now but were valid a few months ago.. Those numbers (or their replacement) should work in all the 1100/1150 engines (L/H side only).. Twisty
Slartidbartfast Posted February 9, 2008 Posted February 9, 2008 It is my understanding that the VERY latest version of the revised tensioner became available only in early 2007. However, it appears to be the same enclosed-spring plunger (the bit you need to change) as the previous revision with new design of tensioner bolt, rather than an added spacer to allow it to fit into the original design of tensioner bolt (The 2005? update). I wrote a table, comparing the part-numbers for all three oilhead chain tensioners going back to the earliest 1994 oilheads up to the very latest HP-2 for comparison's sake recently but now I can't find it. (However, little or nothing changed, except the LH tensioner and the plunger and guide-rail for the center tensioner so if you're having trouble with the parts just look up a replacement for the 1200. The RH tensioner has never changed at all. BTW, I paid closer to $100 for the latest LH tensioner, just a few months ago - and that was the discounted price. Bad news is, it didn't fix the problem.... but that's another story.
Ken H. Posted February 9, 2008 Posted February 9, 2008 Is there any harm in putting up with the noise from the current one, which is annoying. It will not break my precious bits inside will it.Are you hearing chain slap just at start up or continuously? If just momentarily at start up, it will not harm a thing. OTOH if it is continuous, it will eventually tear up the plastic chain guide rails and should be fixed.
Francis Posted February 9, 2008 Posted February 9, 2008 The Adv Rider process that I saw in a photo essay is a long and involved process. I have changed out two cam chain tensioners in under 60 minutes each with what I believe is a simpler method. You will need a 15 MM and 17 MM stubby 12 point combination angled box end and open end wrenches. I got a set from Sears (part # 44111, 7 Piece Short Combination Wrench Set metric). You will need a small magnet. I took a telescoping pick-up magnet and bent it at 90 degrees about 6 inches from the magnet tip. Slide the air tube off of the left TB back into the air box. Remove the TB from the manifold and secure in its same relative position using a wire hanging off of the left side hand grip. This way you won't have to remove and electircal or machanical connections. Just hang it at the same level as it was mounted to the cylinder head so you don't disturb any of the connections. Slide the box end of 17MM wrench up from underneith the TB onto the top "nut" of the cam chain tensioner. Unscrew the body. Once it is unscrewed all the way up remove the body and the spring. Put the magnet down into the hole and remove the inner part of this 3-piece assembly. (Because of the tight space here you will be working the wrench in small increments through this process.) Make sure the two parts for the mew cam chain tensioner are inserted together correctly. Place the new cam chain tensioner into place in the hole and finger tightern it down into the hole to make sure it is seating correctly. When it is seated as far as you can get it with your fingers put the 15mm box end on the tensioner and tighten as far as you can. You can't get a torque wrench in here with this method but it has a fairly high torque value (if I remenber correctly) so your hand tightening it up quite tightly should be "close enough" (Note: you will have to make that decision for yourself. I'm only sharing what I have done) Bolt the TB back into the hylinder head and be sure the throttle and electrical lines are clear and correctly oriented. Put a new "o" ring on the air pipe and slide it back onto the TB. Use the orientation marks on the plasitc and the TB to be sure it is aligned correctly. Tighten the outer clamp and you are done. Check all lines again to be sure nothing is pinched or hanging up. It should take about an hour to get it all done...including thinking about it during the process. These change outs were made on two R1150RT's. Your resuls may vary.
T__ Posted February 9, 2008 Posted February 9, 2008 Francis,, good write up.. I will add that I always drop the bike onto the side stand just before I remove the L/H tensioner as that raises the control arm slightly & gives more access to get the tensioner in & out as well as wrench access.. Twisty
BUSTED Posted February 10, 2008 Posted February 10, 2008 I change out left side tensioners on 1100's with these tools + magnet and take nothing off or apart. pic attached.
kioolt Posted February 10, 2008 Posted February 10, 2008 I recognize everything in the phot except the two small pieces near the handle of the pick. What are they?
BUSTED Posted February 10, 2008 Posted February 10, 2008 Sorry for the poor pic as it's cold out in the garage! The 2 items near the handle are "wrench sockets". By placing the socket,(17mm for the original and the 15mm for the upgrade, on the cam tensioner bolt, I get the clearance I need for the crowfoot wrench in this tight space. You need to set the ratchet rotation in the opposite direction you normaly would to get the correct rotation as you are working the tool upside down. Pic attached.
jfremder Posted February 10, 2008 Posted February 10, 2008 I recognize everything (including the crow's feet) , except the two things numbered 15 and 17 next to the handle. What are they?
jfremder Posted February 10, 2008 Posted February 10, 2008 I recognize everything (including the crow's feet) , except the two things numbered 15 and 17 next to the handle. What are they? Ahhh THIS THING Wrench Sockets. Never knew they existed - Thanks!
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