final drive...

[Bruce H]

I did a search but didn't find what I am looking for, I know it must be here someplace.

 

I have 96 1100GS and where the gear cluster meets the drive there is a rubber boot and large allen/screw/bolt. At this point I have play so my guess is I need to replace the berring/bushing. Is there a diagram and/or description of this service? My wheel berrings are tight, the play is at the drive connection.

 

Thanks for the help.

[Mr. Frank]

Tom Cutter of Rubber Chicken Racing Garage sells some bushings which replace those pivot bearings.

[Mark K]

Reframe your search to " +pivot +bearing " (minus the quotes) and you should have plenty of reading to do tonight.

[smiller]

Hi Bruce,

 

You may or may not need to actually replace the bearings... it's possible that a preload adjustment is all that is necessary. A Haynes or BMW service manual describes the procedure and it's pretty simple.

 

BMW uses tapered roller bearings in the pivot points and roller bearings aren't really the best choice for this application as they do not rotate sufficiently to spin the bearing properly and this can lead the rollers denting the race, which then necessitates a readjustment. If you need to do this frequently then the bearing is on the way out and should be replaced. Personally I haven't found this to be a problem (my first set went about 60k miles and I expect the replacement to as well, so they last long enough to suit me) but there also the option of replacing OEM with solid bushings via a kit from the Rubber Chicken Racing Garage. These should last even longer... maybe.

[Tank]

Bmw also uses a locktite that will need to be heated before you try to remove the Allen bolts (12MM)

My Haynes Manual has a pretty good outline on the procedure.

[T__]

I did a search but didn't find what I am looking for, I know it must be here someplace.

 

I have 96 1100GS and where the gear cluster meets the drive there is a rubber boot and large allen/screw/bolt. At this point I have play so my guess is I need to replace the berring/bushing. Is there a diagram and/or description of this service? My wheel berrings are tight, the play is at the drive connection.

 

Thanks for the help.

 

 

 

Bruce, your rear final drive pivots on caged needle bearings with a tapered pin to pivot on.. In most cases you just get a little wear between the tapered pin & the caged needle bearings in the casting..

 

I would suggest you at least pull the pivot pins out & be sure the caged needle bearings are not worn out or lacking lubrication.. Then look at the tapered pivot pins for signs of brinelling or fretting. If the pivot pins look good then probably just relubing the needle bearings & re-assembling the pivot pins & setting to specs..

 

See attached pix…

 

 

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/tractorman22/Fnldrv2.jpg

 

 

X Tightening torque:

Fixed bearing stud bolt

(threads cleaned + Loctite 2701) ................ 160 Nm

Floating bearing stud bolt

(threads cleaned + Loctite 2701) .................... 7 Nm

Locknut...................................................... 160 Nm

Reaction link to rear-wheel drive unit............ 43 Nm

Wheel studs .............................................. 105 Nm

Brake caliper to rear-wheel drive unit ........... 40 Nm

Capacity:

Initial fill/oil change .................. approximately 0.25 l

................................ (0.44 Imp. pint/0.27 US quart)

Oil grade:

Brand-name SAE 90 hypoid gear oil, API GL 5

 

Twisty

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

Hi Bruce,

 

You may or may not need to actually replace the bearings... it's possible that a preload adjustment is all that is necessary.

 

My experience has been that once the pivot bearings loosen up (usually due to wear), the rollers themselves flat-spot or the races dent, and tightening things up just leads to the same problem a few months down the road. Next time my pivot bearings loosen up I'm gonna replace them with the bushings.

[Stan Walker]

My experience has been that once the pivot bearings loosen up (usually due to wear), the rollers themselves flat-spot or the races dent, and tightening things up just leads to the same problem a few months down the road.

 

Same for me too. Tightening may cause the now flat rollers and dented races to not rotate. That can lead to rotation and wear on the shaft that they are mounted on.

 

Stan

[kiwiaudio]

Rubber chickens bushings come highly recommended, but are expensive compared to the $17 bearings that do last a long time. Just replaced mine at 80K. Just make sure to clean out the old loctite from the threads and reapply loctite 242 Blue. Never use the red stuff - Its damn near permanent!

[Bruce H]

Thanks for the help. I took it apart today, getting the berrings out was the biggest challange. I will order a set of bushings from Rubber Chicken however for today I had the BMW shop UPS a set of berrings. At $64 + freight the bushings look like a better value however I would have to wait and the bike is in the middle of my shop floor, so...

[BMWRich58]

Hi Bruce,

 

You may or may not need to actually replace the bearings... it's possible that a preload adjustment is all that is necessary.

 

My experience has been that once the pivot bearings loosen up (usually due to wear), the rollers themselves flat-spot or the races dent, and tightening things up just leads to the same problem a few months down the road. Next time my pivot bearings loosen up I'm gonna replace them with the bushings.

 

Yes I agree,"flat spotting on the race" has happened to me also.

 

Quick question.....do bushings require more maintenance than "roller bearing's"???

In my experiences with operating heavy equipment,assembled parts with bushings need "more attention more often" than those with roller bearings.

[Bruce H]

There were flat spots on both sides of the bearing races. indeed these were shot. This bike has had the drive/transmission failurer/replacement so was worked on before I got it. Who knows whom did what.