JayW Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 My rear tire was a few pounds low before my ride today, and I decided to top it up using my new CyclePump. The intructions indicate that it should be plugged into a 10-15 amp circuit. Knowing that my 2 RT outlets are rated for 10 amps combined, I anticipated no problems plugging in this one item. Well, after only 10 seconds run time, the circuit shut down. I restarted it by cycling the key, and it shut down again. I ended up using the powerport on my car dash, which worked fine. Yeah, yeah, I know that I could cut some wires or buy an Powerlet accessory and run the receptacle straight to the battery, but I should not have to do this. These receptacles are there for things like CyclePumps, electrically heated clothing, and other commonly used high-current items. The bike's electrical system ought to be able to reliably run such items right out of the crate. It is no secret that the second rear port is often used by the pillion to plug in his/her heated clothing, but there is no way the CANbus system would allow two heated jacket liners to be powered at the same time, much less additional heated gloves or pant liners - even though the alternator could easily support such a load. What a waste - why are the CANbus poweports so feeble? The factory design of the system forces the buyer to cut wires and fix it so that it works, or suffer the consequences out on the road for not doing so. I marvel at the overall engineering genius of RT, so this is not a big deal. However, it is annoying, and would have been really annoying had I discovered this flaw out beside some lonely road while trying to inflate a flat. What were the designers thinking? Perhaps on the next computer software upgrade, BMW could reprogram the CANbus to allow a 15-20 amp draw from each of the two available powerports. In the meantime, I'll have to get out my wire cutter, splicers, and in-line 20 amp fuse. Well, I feel better. Thanks. Jay Link to comment
erkmania Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 ...or just have 2 parallel wired plugs from you pump to connect to both accessory outlets. That way you can take advantage of 20 available amps. If the wiring is too feeble to handle more than 10 amps, why would you criticise BMW for limiting current to 10 amps? BTW, I agree that the wiring should be robust enough to handle 15, but I didn't design the bike. Just work around the design is all I'm saying. Link to comment
HandyAndy Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 It is no secret that the second rear port is often used by the pillion to plug in his/her heated clothing, but there is no way the CANbus system would allow two heated jacket liners to be powered at the same time, much less additional heated gloves or pant liners - even though the alternator could easily support such a load. This is not a true statement. Both my wife and I have used our heated vests simultaneously one from the front port and one from the rear and have never had any problems on my 05 RT. Now they are just cheap vests bought at a local bike shop but they provide plenty of heat, and I do ride in the winter alot! If you have ever looked at the wires that go to the power outlets you would understand why the 10A limit! All that said I do think that they could have been a little more robust, but it is easy to wire them to the battery, I was able to modify a connector to plug right into the back of the front power socket. All it took was a two pin molex connector and a couple of minutes with a file to make it fit right in. In my case I am going to wire my home made heat controler into the front socket and permanantly mount the controler in the fairing. Andy. Link to comment
Dundee387 Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 Jay, My wife & I use our BMW heated vests on our 2006 RT. Never a problem. I was skeptical from all I read about the power issue, and asked at the dealership. The reply was, do you think we would be selling these vests if they wouldn't work on our motorcycles... makes sense.. I don't know about cycle pumps.. Link to comment
vfrman Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 Your battery may be low. If the circuit detects that the battery is low, it will shut off. If you have a radio, the same thing happens. If you were to start the bike, I'm sure it would run fine. Link to comment
awagnon Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 It's common for GS riders to deflate their tires when going off road and re-inflate them when back on pavement. At a recent rally, some 1200GS riders discovered, out in the boonies, that their pumps wouldn't work. Their tires had to be inflated from the 1150GS bike. Thanks for reminding me why I don't want a new bike. Link to comment
dyvking Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 It's common for GS riders to deflate their tires when going off road and re-inflate them when back on pavement. At a recent rally, some 1200GS riders discovered, out in the boonies, that their pumps wouldn't work. Their tires had to be inflated from the 1150GS bike. Thanks for reminding me why I don't want a new bike. One of the first things I did on BOTH my R12's was to wire my own powerlet outlet direct to the battery with larger wire and a 15 amp fuse. The wimpy canbus thing is kinda dumb, but simple to circumvent. Link to comment
JayW Posted February 3, 2008 Author Share Posted February 3, 2008 Thanks for the responses. My assumption that the RT would not power 2 jacket liners was based on my experience that I can use the factory powerport to run my Gerbings jacket liner by itself, but not the jacket plus heated gloves. I suppose my battery could be low, but I take a nice long ride at least once weekly, so I doubt it. I did not try to start the engine because the rear wheel tends to rotate and I was trying to inflate that tire. Next time maybe I'll take it off the center stand and try running the engine. I still maintain that BMW could have easily engineered the CANbus system to handle heavier accessory electrical loads, and it sounds like they need to use heavier gauge wires to those receptacles. Wire is cheap stuff. Again, this is not a deal-breaker issue, but I would suggest that this shortcoming be addressed in upcoming iterations of the RT. Jay Link to comment
ShovelStrokeEd Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 No problem, apply to BMW for a position as an electrical engineer and perhaps they will let you design the next system. It is what it is. There are ways around the issue as others have posted. Take one of those. Link to comment
GordonB Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 FWIW, I hooked up my $15 Slime Pump to the 07 RT's acc socket, engine off, and had no problems running the pump long enough to inflate the rear tire. Link to comment
bmwscoot Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 Perhaps on the next computer software upgrade, BMW could reprogram the CANbus to allow a 15-20 amp draw from each of the two available powerports. In the meantime, I'll have to get out my wire cutter, splicers, and in-line 20 amp fuse. Well, I feel better. Thanks. Jay Hi Jay, I believe, in particular, you want to be angry @ the ZFE Module, not necessarily the CANbus. The ZFE Module (zee effin' electronics) is what senses current draw, and shuts down circuits when in "error". Link to comment
marcopolo Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 I'm scratching my head a little bit. I have a 2006 R12RT, with three accessory outlets -- two in front and one in the rear. None is wired directly to the battery. I also have a Cycle Pump and have plugged it into each of those three outlets numerous times, with the engine off, to inflate my tires. Occasionally, one of them has shut down, but I took it that it had "timed out", i.e., I had not started the pump soon enough after turning the key on (then off). I think the outlets are automatically powered down about 5 to 10 minutes after the key is turned off. I did a five-week trip to California last summer, and used the Cycle Pump without any issue whatsoever. Link to comment
Dick_at_Lake_Tahoe_NV Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 No problem, apply to BMW for a position as an electrical engineer and perhaps they will let you design the next system. It is what it is. There are ways around the issue as others have posted. Take one of those. YA, dis is right! Ve Chermans haf alvays belived dat man is the slave of his machine. So pay your $20K and then go modify the plugs so they will support the way any normal person would want to use them. When I owned an 1100RT and 1150RT I was told by BMW factory reps the reason my bike surged was I was not holding the throttle steady--but you'll get used to it--YA! Well I guess I've learned something over the years, and I must be holding my throttle steady with my R1200RT. No more surge! Link to comment
JayW Posted February 3, 2008 Author Share Posted February 3, 2008 I'm scratching my head a little bit. I have a 2006 R12RT, with three accessory outlets -- two in front and one in the rear...used the Cycle Pump without any issue whatsoever. Hmmm...that is interesting. Maybe my battery is the problem. It seems OK, but is over 2.5 years old now and maybe is beginning to fail. This doesn't change the crux of my underlying gripe though. How do you have 3 outlets - I thought there was only wiring for one in the rear? You must have split the second rear one off the wire for the outlet on the left, and cut a hole in the depression on the right for the 3rd plug, no? Jay Link to comment
JR356 Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 Hi, Get a Powerlet iCan harness for the rear,then you can power anything. Otherwise wire an SAE outlet to an accessible point and use it,an inexpensive one is the one that Battery Tender sells as an accessory. Powerlet and Battery Tender available at many BMW or other MC dealers. www.powerletproducts.com JR356 Link to comment
marcopolo Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 How do you have 3 outlets - I thought there was only wiring for one in the rear? You must have split the second rear one off the wire for the outlet on the left, and cut a hole in the depression on the right for the 3rd plug, no? Jay The bike was ordered from the factory with two outlets -- one left front and one rear. The dealer added a third stock outlet on the right front before delivery. Link to comment
lawnchairboy Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 I agree, canbus power outlet thing is wimpy... I put a third outlet right rear with 15A fuse direct to battery for that reason. I also agree for the price, you shouldn't have to do that, but it is quite easy and inexpensive to manage. Link to comment
ShovelStrokeEd Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 I'm not so sure about the any normal person. I do carry one of those little compressors (mine's a Slime) but I only have it to re-inflate the tire after a flat. I don't use it for maintenance, I have a large tank of nitrogen in my garage for that. I prefer not to introduce any more water into my tires than I have to. Since I replace tires that have suffered a puncture, I don't worry about the short term they will be filled with moisture laden air. BMW designed the system so that it would accept a normal range of accessories, normal being defined by what BMW sells. They don't sell an air compressor and the system works fine with their electrically heated clothing. Link to comment
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