waylap Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 On the way up to Cedar Key this weekend the clutch seemed to go out on me. 04RT with only 14k miles. There's no cable and looks to be hydrolic. I would pull in the lever and the bike was still pulling. If I pumped the clutch like crazy before i would try to use it, it would work for a feew minutes, then nothing. There's an opaque window on the resevoir above the left grip. Should it be full all the way or should I see a level half way up? Any ideas what this could be? Link to comment
T__ Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 On the way up to Cedar Key this weekend the clutch seemed to go out on me. 04RT with only 14k miles. There's no cable and looks to be hydrolic. I would pull in the lever and the bike was still pulling. If I pumped the clutch like crazy before i would try to use it, it would work for a feew minutes, then nothing. There's an opaque window on the resevoir above the left grip. Should it be full all the way or should I see a level half way up? Any ideas what this could be? Bill, BMW has had an ongoing problem with their clutch slave cylinder leaking fluid into the trans cavity.. That can wreck a good clutch in no time.. Pull the cover on your clutch master cylinder & if out of fluid (I’m betting it is) get your slave cylinder looked at quick like.. Kind of a pain to get to the slave cylinder as it is in front of the rear control arm on the rear of the trans.. Twisty Link to comment
ShovelStrokeEd Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 It's not opaque, it should be 1/2 way up the window. You could try adding some fluid but, I would only do this to make the trip to the dealer. The clutch actuation is via a closed, hydraulic system and it shouldn't be losing fluid. If it is, chances are the seal on the piston has gone and this could lead to contamination of the clutch plate, a very expensive repair job. If you catch it early, it is just a slave cylinder replacement, a much simpler job. Link to comment
smiller Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 Ah yes, hydraulic clutch activation, my favorite 1150 'improvement.' As Ed and Twisty said, get thee to a dealer and save your clutch disc. Link to comment
waylap Posted January 29, 2008 Author Share Posted January 29, 2008 Worst case scenario, what could this cost me for the dealer to dive in? I've never done any clutch work so some of the terms are unfamiliar and I wouldn't have a clue about price quotes from the dealer. Link to comment
T__ Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 Worst case scenario, what could this cost me for the dealer to dive in? I've never done any clutch work so some of the terms are unfamiliar and I wouldn't have a clue about price quotes from the dealer. Bill, A & S lists the slave cylinder for about $121.50 (that is parts only).. If you go by the book for installation directions it shows all the rear drive & rear control arm must come (off, lots of work) so probably a fair amount of labor there (at least dealer wise).. It can be done without pulling the entire rear drive but not at all easy to do.. In my book not a do it yourself project if you are not pretty darn familiar with working on these bikes. I really don’t know the entire dealer price or parts,, labor,, bleeding,, etc but probably fairly high.. Call the dealer as I’m sure they have done quite few & have the price handy.. Twisty Link to comment
Tank Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 Worst case scenario, what could this cost me for the dealer to dive in? I've never done any clutch work so some of the terms are unfamiliar and I wouldn't have a clue about price quotes from the dealer. Bill.... worst? Well My clutch plates were toast due to my riding the bike long past the "save the plates point" and by the time it left the dealer, it was close to 12 to 14 hundred dollars ( US ).. there might have been a few add ons in that , I really don't remember. But, What I do remember is.. If it happens again I will PARK bike till tow truck arrives. Link to comment
Jim Moore Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 Worst case scenario, what could this cost me for the dealer to dive in? I've never done any clutch work so some of the terms are unfamiliar and I wouldn't have a clue about price quotes from the dealer. If you are only replacing the slave cylinder, you are not really doing anything to the clutch. If you know how to bleed brakes and operate a torque wrench you are good-to-go. It was pretty easy on my R1100S. I don't know about the RT. Link to comment
bdspler Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 my 2005 rtp was Quoted $1200.00 Thank goodness it was covered! bd Link to comment
waylap Posted January 31, 2008 Author Share Posted January 31, 2008 What parts and pieces do I need to take off to see this slave cylinder ? Is this where the hydrolic hose ends from the left hand grip and goes down under the plastic? I think I'm going to try to tackle this one, since I just can't beleive that the whole "clutch" is shot with only 14k miles. I'm betting it's somthing I can work through in a couple weeks tops with some help from you guys. Is this slave cylinder thing I can just buy and take off the old and replace with new or do I need to remove the whole rear end to do any of this just as though I were working on the transmission? Link to comment
T__ Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 What parts and pieces do I need to take off to see this slave cylinder ? Is this where the hydrolic hose ends from the left hand grip and goes down under the plastic? I think I'm going to try to tackle this one, since I just can't beleive that the whole "clutch" is shot with only 14k miles. I'm betting it's somthing I can work through in a couple weeks tops with some help from you guys. Is this slave cylinder thing I can just buy and take off the old and replace with new or do I need to remove the whole rear end to do any of this just as though I were working on the transmission? Bill, I would at least pull the side plastic Tupperware.. It helps to put the bike up on a motorcycle lift table as you can get a better angle to look up inside the rear of the transmission cavity.. That slave cylinder sits on the rear of trans way up in front of the rear control arm cross structure.. (3 bolts) You can easily access one bolt,, sort of access one other, & with great difficultly & a ball end allen wrench fitted in a small socket just about get the 3rd bolt.. Like I said above BMW manual calls for pulling the rear control arm but with much persistence you can work it out & down without pulling the rear of the bike apart.. Get it (the bike) ready & find the slave cylinder with a strong light then ask questions when you get to a place you don’t understand.. Twisty Link to comment
Ken H. Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 In addition to the slave cyl. itself, you'll need a new gasket that goes between it and the transmission case. Although some of us really wonder what it's there for. And some brake fluid to bleed the whole thing with. And need to understand how the clutch bleeder that is strapped to the right side rear frame works. Which to get to you'll have to take off the right side faring "tupperware" too. Also, when you have the slave cyl. out go ahead and pull out the push rod from the center of the tran. input shaft and clean it all up. It has a felt washer around it about 1/3 of it's length in. You want to get any fluid out of the center of the shaft because that's what can eventually migrate up to the clutch plate an contaminate it. Link to comment
awagnon Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 Also, when you have the slave cyl. out go ahead and pull out the push rod from the center of the tran. input shaft and clean it all up. It has a felt washer around it about 1/3 of it's length in. Ken. When I put my RT back together, I couldn't remember which way the push rod went. The diagrams in the manuals really didn't show it clearly to me. Is correct that the felt ring is closer to the slave cylinder and not the clutch? Link to comment
Ken H. Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 Is correct that the felt ring is closer to the slave cylinder and not the clutch? Yes. Link to comment
T__ Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 Bill, a couple of other points to consider: You will be working with a system that has/had/will have brake fluid in it.. Brake fluid is a VERY EFFECTIVE PAINT REMOVER.. Be ever so careful working with brake fluid around any painted surfaces.. Even a little splash,, spray,, or even a single drop can ruin your bikes paint.. I cover the areas around & under the master cylinder with plastic garbage bags then a layer of newspaper before bleeding the clutch cylinder.. Watch the open ends of the lines you remove as they can sling brake fluid where you don’t want it.. Next,, if your clutch system bleeding extension line has a factory quick fill on the end of it you will probably need to stop by your local auto parts store & get a conventional bleeder screw so you can bleed the clutch system when done.. I know the earlier 1150RT’s had the quick fill adapter not sure on your later year bike.. If you want to order parts on-line Chicago BMW gives a nice discount to on-line orders.. Twisty Link to comment
GSman Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 Look to see if the fluid is dark in the clutch master cylinder. It will turn dark when the slave goes bad. This is what mine looked like and was just starting to leak.. Link to comment
jojo Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 Is this the same diameter as the brake bleed screws? Link to comment
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