Flipper69 Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 Oh Boy, My new to me '01 R1100RT has a bad rear end. Sheared splines, grinding, etc., etc. Is this something easy to fix? I've been looking for parts, and even used stuff is running $400-500. Any constructive thoughts would be most appreciated. Thanks. BTW, I've seen posts reguarding this here before. Ran a search and came up with nada... Link to comment
T__ Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 Oh Boy, My new to me '01 R1100RT has a bad rear end. Sheared splines, grinding, etc., etc. Is this something easy to fix? I've been looking for parts, and even used stuff is running $400-500. Any constructive thoughts would be most appreciated. Thanks. BTW, I've seen posts reguarding this here before. Ran a search and came up with nada... Josh, it depends on what is really torn up.. Just saying rear splines can mean about anything.. Are the final drive input splines bad & if so how bad are the matching drive shaft splines.. \ New parts to repair bring big money but I have seen numerous used 1100RT final drives & drive shafts for sale a reasonable prices.. You just have to be persistent in looking & check many sources.. They are out there you just have to keep looking.. Try the link below & Beemer BoneYard.. BMW used parts Twisty Link to comment
OoPEZoO Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 um......sheared splines? I'd have a hard time believing that one. Have you opened the rear end and looked at it? Usually its the large crown bearing that self destructs. Some guys have rebuilt their final drives themselves (including myself). Personaly, mine lasted another 10k miles and self destructed again. The second time, I removed the final drive and took it to my local dealership to have it properly rebuilt. Here is a link to when mine lunched the 2nd bearing ( Here! ) Final bill came to $425.87 for a complete rebuild. $185.76 (parts) + $216 (labor $60 X 3.6 Hrs) + 6% sales tax That was with me removing the final drive, disassembing it, and dropping it off at the dealer. It definitly would have been more if I had just taken the whole bike in. Link to comment
Flipper69 Posted January 24, 2008 Author Share Posted January 24, 2008 Okay, You're right, it's the main bearing. The input shaft is okay. To me the most logical fix is to find a used or rebuilt one and swap it out. Link to comment
ArthurKnowles Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 I saw one on eBay last night. Here's the link if it can be used by you ... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-R1100...sspagenameZWDVW Link to comment
OoPEZoO Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 Okay, You're right, it's the main bearing. The input shaft is okay. To me the most logical fix is to find a used or rebuilt one and swap it out. Cool......welcome to the final drive club I ran through all of same thoughts you are having right now. I decided that I didn't want to chance putting a used drive on the bike and possibly having it fail after a few months. After a phone call to my dealer, they said they had all the proper tools and had rebuilt a few over the years. That was the first time I've had to rely on a dealer to do any work on my bikes, but I still think it was the right choice. They did the work quickly, and I know they will stand behind their work if I run into any problems with it in the future. just my $.02 How many miles are on the bike? Link to comment
Beemr69 Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 So far as the ebay thing if you scroll down in the sellers store there is a speedo/tach with 61K miles on , if these are off the same demo it could be a crap shoot . Was there a post in the recent past that after % off thru Chicago BMW a new FD was in the low 800's ? Link to comment
Anton Largiader Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 $350 to $480 is the basic cost range of the repair, which would be complete disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly with new seals. $350 if it's just the main bearing, $480 if it needs other bearings. Rough numbers based on $55/hour but your local dealer will probably have a higher labor rate than I do. However, there's some convenience involved in having it done locally. Easier to get warranty coverage if it fails again, for instance. IMO a properly rebuilt one is better than a used one any day. Link to comment
BUSTED Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 I had rear differential rebuilt by www.brunos.us. No problems after the repair. I was north of the border when it failed. Link to comment
99RT-P Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 I guess I'm about to become a member of the final drive club as well. For the past few months, I've noticed a slight repetitive 'thumping', for lack of a better word, in the rear end of the bike. I figured it might be a warped rear rotor after I accidentally wailed on the rear brake while bedding in some new pads. Yeah I know, what a dumbass! I just replaced the rear rotor and pads again while doing a bunch of other work, and of course the thumping was still there. It had actually gotten worse! So I pulled the final drive filler plug, and sure enough the oil was full of metal. Great! But at least I caught it in my garage and not out on some deserted road with a total FD failure. The bike has 115000 miles on it, so I guess I can't complain too much. I'd rather just get my FD rebuilt assuming the gears are okay. I really wouldn't trust a used one from eBay, and I can't afford a brand new unit. A certain SoCal BMW dealer (I won't mention any names, but they're located in Escondido!) won't even crack the drive open, just remove and replace. Brown's and Malcolm Smith will both do rebuilds. Since MSM doesn't have the parts in stock, Brown's gets the honors. I don't want to do the work myself...I'm afraid it would fail again in 10000 miles. I figure the total should be in the $450-500 range, just about between a used unit and a new one. I think I can live with that, plus the peace of mind while out on a tour is priceless. Link to comment
James_H Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 Had mine re-built by Bruno as well. Just give him a call before shipping, he has some suggestions as to how it is shipped, etc. Jim Link to comment
OoPEZoO Posted January 27, 2008 Share Posted January 27, 2008 I guess I'm about to become a member of the final drive club as well. For the past few months, I've noticed a slight repetitive 'thumping', for lack of a better word, in the rear end of the bike. I figured it might be a warped rear rotor after I accidentally wailed on the rear brake while bedding in some new pads. Yeah I know, what a dumbass! I just replaced the rear rotor and pads again while doing a bunch of other work, and of course the thumping was still there. It had actually gotten worse! So I pulled the final drive filler plug, and sure enough the oil was full of metal. Great! But at least I caught it in my garage and not out on some deserted road with a total FD failure. The bike has 115000 miles on it, so I guess I can't complain too much. I'd rather just get my FD rebuilt assuming the gears are okay. I really wouldn't trust a used one from eBay, and I can't afford a brand new unit. A certain SoCal BMW dealer (I won't mention any names, but they're located in Escondido!) won't even crack the drive open, just remove and replace. Brown's and Malcolm Smith will both do rebuilds. Since MSM doesn't have the parts in stock, Brown's gets the honors. I don't want to do the work myself...I'm afraid it would fail again in 10000 miles. I figure the total should be in the $450-500 range, just about between a used unit and a new one. I think I can live with that, plus the peace of mind while out on a tour is priceless. Welcome to the club Of course it sucks, but I think you are in the right mind of being happy that it lasted 115k miles. After all, it is basically just the failure of a rear wheel bearing. I've had to replace at least one wheel bearing in just about every vehicle I've ever owned. FWIW, it is also an excellent time to go ahead and replace the rear pivot bearings with the solid bushings from rubber chicken racing garage (no relation to my rubber chicken) . Link to comment
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