RiceToy Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 I'll be replacing the OEM Gel battery with an Odyssey PC680 on my new (used) 2004 R1150RT as soon as I get a chance. I plan to wire in a fused 2-pin flat plug (trailer plug) to power a GPS. Also may replace the secondary spark plugs. This will be my first time taking the tupperware off. So I'm a newbie at BMW maintenance. Other than the auxillary wire, is there anything else I should do while the left side plastic is off? Also, where is the best place to purchase those plastic valve cover protectors? Also considering 'elf' pegs, but not sure if they work together. Any input on this would be helpful. Link to comment
Ken H. Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 Not much under the left side specifically that is an issue. If you were pulling both sides off you could do a throttle body sync and all that stuff. ISFA the valve covers, there are several different ones available. The open triangular ones are a BMW part available from any dealer. The Elf pegs are great! Big $$ but well worth it IMHO. Link to comment
kioolt Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 I believe that you will find it necessary to remove both fairing panels to replace the secondary spark plugs. I seem to remember that they can not be removed with the fairing panels in place. Link to comment
ElevenFifty Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 You will also find it easier to replace the battery if you remove the right and left plastic (the belly pan also comes off - just 4 screws). Get a long 3mm hex wrench and cut it off at the bend. Use an electric drill with a clutch set to the very lightest setting. You should be able to easily hold the chuck still with the drill on high speed. You can use this to remove and reinstall most of the body screws that hold on the plastic ... on each side you'll find : 3 on the top of the tank 1 under the front lip of the seat 3 along the bottom by the pegs 4 inside the cylinder opening 2 attached to the belly pan 1 under the mirror 1 under the grill by the oil cooler 1 (plastic holder - doesn't come out) at the back by the seat Almost all of these screws attach to little floating nuts clipped onto other bodywork. Try not to disturb them but if you do, just use a screwdriver to realign them with the plastic when you are re-assembling. To remove the mirror, stand next to the tank, reach around the mirror and hold the front (plastic) side of it gently, use the heel of the other hand and whack it a good one on the outer edge of the mirror housing ... (driving the whole mirror assemby out and toward the front of the bike) ... barberic but that's how it's done ... assemble in reverse but put a safety tether on it while you've got it off. Removing the screw in the grill is a little tricky and the drill can't be used in the very tight space. Sounds like a pain ... 30 screws, two fasteners and two mirrors ... but the second time you do it, it'll take about 10 minutes. Once the plastic is off, there is a single allen head bolt that frees the fuel tank. The nut for this bolt is free to fall, so look closely and remove it with care. If you wanted to actually REMOVE the tank, then you need to disconnect two air hoses, one electrical connector, and two fuel line quick release fittings ... you could then just lift the tank off the bike. Before you do that, get some tape and mark the air lines ... it is possible to put them back together the wrong way and there are consequences. The fuel line quick disonnects are a little harder to get apart and back together than you expect ... you have to hold in the release tab and tug pretty hard. To get easier access to the battery, you don't need to completely remove the tank, just lift the rear of it up a couple of inches and find a way to prop it up a bit. With the plastic removed, you are 8 easy bolts away from access to the valves. You also have access to the adjustments that control airflow to the cylinders. When the valves are properly adjusted (30 minutes and 1 beer or 2 hours and 4 beers depending on who's playing football that day) and the air flow is balanced ('Throttle Body Sync' or 'TBS') these oil-head motors are at their absolute best - smooth and powerful. Have Fun! Link to comment
Stan Walker Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 To get easier access to the battery, you don't need to completely remove the tank, just lift the rear of it up a couple of inches and find a way to prop it up a bit. You do NOT need to touch the fuel tank to get access to the battery on an RT. Once the left skin (tupperware) is off do the following. Remove cover from air cleaner housing. Losen one bolt and remove the air intake manifod to the air cleaner. Losen the rubber strap that holds down the battery. Disconnect the battery drain hose (if you still have a wet cell). Disconnect the ground lead on the left side of the battery. Slide battery to the left. Disconnect the hot lead on the right side of the battery. Slide battery out of bike. Stan Link to comment
BFish Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 my 2004 RT use torx not hex for the tupperware hardware. Link to comment
ElevenFifty Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 You do NOT need to touch the fuel tank to get access to the battery on an RT. True. I just find it easier. I also have a couple of accessory leads attached to the battery and chose to route them in a manner that prevents sliding the battery out. Really though, IF you are JUST accessing the battery, then you'd remove one side of the plastic ... I replaced my battery with an Odessey while doing valves and TBS so all the plastic was off anyway. At that point, lifting the tank a couple of inches is a one minute exercise. Link to comment
philbytx Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 Does your 2004 have the extended positive terminal bracket under the seat? If it doesn't, I would install the kit while you are in there... Link to comment
RiceToy Posted January 28, 2008 Author Share Posted January 28, 2008 Installed the Odyssey battery today, thank you all for the input, especialy ElevenFifty for the tupperware screw breakdown - printed it off and used it as a checksheet! There was what appeared to be a 'add-on' positive bracket/terminal - to answer that question. Had to modify the brass angle terminal brackets sent with the battery. For all those of you yet to go Odyssey - you don't need an extra bracket kit... the battery comes with the kit. Don't know why they sold me an additional bracket set. Guess the order-taker doesn't know such things - $5 I'll get over it. I did run an accessory power cord (with fuse at the battery) to up under the dash with Nomex wire (happened to have laying around) since I'm note sure how hot it's likely to get through the engine there. Thanks for all the help - it went very smoothly. From what I remember: Whenever the battery is reconnected, you switch the key to 'ON' (not start) and rotate the throttle to full open twice, then turn key off to reset the throttle position sensor. Is that right for an 04' 1150? Link to comment
gfergo Posted April 29, 2008 Share Posted April 29, 2008 Hi, Two questions: 1.) Is this a relatively straightforward procedure that a person with "average" mechanical skills can/should tackle? 2.) Did anyone ever respond to this question? "From what I remember: Whenever the battery is reconnected, you switch the key to 'ON' (not start) and rotate the throttle to full open twice, then turn key off to reset the throttle position sensor. Is that right for an 04' 1150?" Thanks! Glen Link to comment
Lincoln_Faller Posted April 29, 2008 Share Posted April 29, 2008 1) Yes, quite easy. You have to take off the left side of the tupperware, though, and then remove the air tube. Removing the air tube means taking the top off the air cleaner box so you can detach the rear side of it, and removing a bolt at the front of the tube. Then, after releasing the rubber battery strap, you slide the old battery out. It's a good idea to have something, like an upturned plastic waste can or a stool, to rest the battery on while you disconnect the cables. Then put the new battery on that support while you attach it, and then slide it back in and reattach the battery strap. The only tricky thing on reassembly is getting the top of the air cleaner box to fit back, and the trick there is to start the screws at the back just a bit and then pop the front into the catches that hold it. 2) Resetting the TPS is a good idea, but when I replaced my battery last week I forgot to do this, and it made no apparent difference in the performance of the bike. Apparently the TPS resets itself after awhile. Link to comment
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