Rob F. Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 I'm going to change my transmission oilon my R1200RT but as BMW notes, the washers on both the filler and drain plug need replacing. The parts microfiche doesn't list any. Only the drain plug has a part # which includes the washer. The filler plug doesn't even show the washer. Any ideas how to get these by themselves? I've been told these are "lifetime" washers to be used over and over (yeah, right) and that why they are sold separately. Link to comment
johnlt Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 I personally believe the need to replace crush washers "every time" you change fluid is highly "over-rated". Clean it off and put it back and everything will be fine. Link to comment
JonM Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 When I changed trans oil on my R12S was in the same situation. On the S, even though the fiche shows a crush washer, there isn't one. An o-ring is integral to the plug. I replaced the plug with a new one. BMW cars have made the same transition to no crush washers and using integral O-rings instead. Link to comment
RFW Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 I personally believe the need to replace crush washers "every time" you change fluid is highly "over-rated". Clean it off and put it back and everything will be fine. Exactly. That is why they are called "crush washers"... they crush to make a seal. In the past 5 years, that included 2 to 3 changes of engine oil a year, and one or 2 changes of tranny and rear end oil a year, I only replaced ONE crush washer (and that was only because it got too thin). The bike has NEVER leaked a drop. Ever. Seems to me that this should answer the question "is it really nceessary to replace the washers every time." The answer is "of course not!". Link to comment
finallyabeemer Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 Engineer steps in: When aluminum or copper washer are crushed, they work harden just a little. The more they are crushed, the more they harden. And the risk of weeping or leaking is slightly higher with a hardened washer. Leaks, if severe enough and ignored enough, could end up contributing to a oil slicked tire and a crash. Which gets the liability attorneys just a little worked up. So, we recommend they be changed every time to minimize risk. But with proper care (no over torquing, please!) and a quick inspection to verify proper sealing, they can be re-used a couple/few times. I do. Link to comment
krussell Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 Is it really a big deal to spend a couple of bucks for the replacement seals? Seems like money well spent, especially on a $15k + bike. Link to comment
Rob F. Posted January 23, 2008 Author Share Posted January 23, 2008 The questions is that I can't seem to be able to buy the washer by themselves. Link to comment
Big_Gray Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 I just go to my local BMW dealer and ask the parts guy for the crush washers for the transmission and final drive drains. He give me a couple and charges me a couple of bucks. If your dealer doesn't do this, maybe you need to look for another dealer. Sorry...maybe you don't have that option but sometimes it just that simple. Link to comment
Don_Eilenberger Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 The questions is that I can't seem to be able to buy the washer by themselves. Harbor Freight has a kit of 100 or so in lots of different sizes - $3.99. Can't beat it for junk like this.. (and their mini-ratchets are about my favorites - 6" long padded handles, nice fine ratchet, about $2/each on sale..) Link to comment
Jim VonBaden Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 The questions is that I can't seem to be able to buy the washer by themselves. Harbor Freight has a kit of 100 or so in lots of different sizes - $3.99. Can't beat it for junk like this.. (and their mini-ratchets are about my favorites - 6" long padded handles, nice fine ratchet, about $2/each on sale..) +1 I find that the "new" replacement plugs are a waste. I simply cut the old crush washer off and install a new one. Jim Link to comment
RFW Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 Engineer steps in: When aluminum or copper washer are crushed, they work harden just a little. The more they are crushed, the more they harden. Another engineer steps in. Aluminum does not work harden... at least not the intentionally soft alloy used for crush washers. Copper does, but for galvanic corrosion reasons, copper washers are generally not used against aluminum housings. With an aluminum washer, you can easlily retorque it until it is paper thin. But theory is irrelivant. The fact is (as I and many others will attest) that you will get a perfect seal every time even if you reuse an aluminum washer (until, of course, it gets gets extruded out and so thin as to be useless). Link to comment
Joe_C Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 My dealer sells them also. Like Jim said, cut old one off and put on the new 50 cent washer. Link to comment
Heywood Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 Who says BMW owners are "anal retentive"? Link to comment
Don_Eilenberger Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 +1 I find that the "new" replacement plugs are a waste. I simply cut the old crush washer off and install a new one. Jim http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93324 - that's the copper ones (preferred by some people since they can be softened and used again..) If you get on their email special list - you'll get a coupon for them once in a while for $3.99 or so.. Link to comment
aggieengineer Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 "Another engineer steps in. Aluminum does not work harden... at least not the intentionally soft alloy used for crush washers. Copper does, but for galvanic corrosion reasons, copper washers are generally not used against aluminum housings." I certainly reuse aluminum and copper washers, but I was unaware that there was any aluminum alloy, even 1100 series metals, that were immune to work hardening. Must be time to blow the dust off those old engineering textbooks from the previous century! Link to comment
tallman Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 And what's the torque conversion value for substituting copper for aluminum? Link to comment
Don_Eilenberger Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 And what's the torque conversion value for substituting copper for aluminum? I've never bothered torquing crush washer applications. When the washer starts to crush - it's tight enough.. (or if it starts turning real easy - whichever comes first.. ) Link to comment
JohnH Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 Does anyone know offhand what the washer diameter (ID) is for the R1200 oil drain plug? Link to comment
Joe_C Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 Check out this post Previous post Link to comment
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