R1100RT Switch trouble (hi/lo + clutch int.) - repair or replace?

[szurszewski]

Short question:

I think my hi-lo switch is dying/dead (haven't done a thorough investigation, but I'm hoping this is the trouble), and I know my clutch interrupt switch is out (been that way a few months). From those that have tried, is it worth it to pull the switches apart and attempt a repair or should I go ahead and purchase replacements (both can be had from the boneyard for about $50 {for the two})?

 

Long story (added for those who have time to kill ):

I got a now-rare day off yesterday and took advantage of the oddly beautiful Oregon weather for a few extra hours of riding. On the way home a few hours after dark, my hi-lo beam switch started giving me trouble. At first all was ok, then the low beam would flick on and die when I switched down from high....then high would only stay on if I fiddled a bit and didn't hit a bump...and then it would only stay if I held in the "momentary" position.

 

I was about 90 minutes from home and found after a few minutes that my hand wasn't going to last that long thumb-on-switch, so I stopped and managed to hold the switch in position with some zipties, some velcro and a bit of pencil (I know, I know - where's the duct tape? Well, that's what i was asking myself as I went through my mini-emergency kit last night...).

[Ken H.]

People have had pretty good luck with going in and cleaning them up.

[Bob_Minor]

People have had pretty good luck with going in and cleaning them up.

 

I did the hi/low switch a few years ago on a '96RS. Basically you take it apart, clean out all the shaved plastic, add some dielectric grease and it's pretty much good forever. It was easy, just don't drop the little ball bearing or the let the spring fly.

[szurszewski]

Bob -

I've done similar work on a number of the switches on my wife's Vespa GT (seems like I swore the last time I wouldn't try it again...hopefully my wife didn't hear that), and though it's a pain, it is cheap and seems to work.

 

I think I'll give it a try - any tips on how to avoid the bearing and spring flying across the room (other than just being cautious), or even on how to remove the assembly in the first place? Oh - be careful with any cavalier statements like, "gee - if you weren't up in Alaska, I'd show you how..." because, though I've been too lazy to change my user info, I actually live in NE PDX now.

[Mr. Frank]

For those kind of jobs I try to work in a shoe box with a soft cloth inside.

[Bob_Minor]

Bob -

I've done similar work on a number of the switches on my wife's Vespa GT (seems like I swore the last time I wouldn't try it again...hopefully my wife didn't hear that), and though it's a pain, it is cheap and seems to work.

 

I think I'll give it a try - any tips on how to avoid the bearing and spring flying across the room (other than just being cautious), or even on how to remove the assembly in the first place? Oh - be careful with any cavalier statements like, "gee - if you weren't up in Alaska, I'd show you how..." because, though I've been too lazy to change my user info, I actually live in NE PDX now.

 

It's been awhile and I just winged it when I did it, so I don't have a lot of details to share. I believe there is a single screw that once removed allows the switch to separate into two halves. When you remove the small parts do it over a rag or something so you can catch anything that falls out (the shoe box and rag mentioned above sounds like a good idea). I remember it was designed rather nicely and would only go back together one way.

[szurszewski]

I went out and disconnected the switch from the bar (I undid two screws - a phillips from the rear and a hex from the front - not sure both were necessary though), and, as you said, it looks pretty logical inside. The rest will have to wait until after work - and I'll definitely be using the shoebox/cloth technique.

 

Thanks for the tips - if I come across anything unexpected, I'll post it here for future use.

j

[tomk99r11]

My switch started acting up several yrs ago. Took it apart several times, cleaned it, made sure contacts were clean, making contact, etc. Sometimes it worked, others not. Finally bought a used switch assy from BeemerBoneYard. One of the wires to the old switch had only a couple of strands intact because there was no slack in the wire length. Also, go slowly taking that thing apart, some stuff will fall out and getting it back in place may not be so easy. Good luck with cleaning.

[szurszewski]

I finally got a chance to get into the hi/lo switch assembly today. Upon inspection of the already opened casing, I decided I didn't really want to pull all the bits apart, so I worked it over with q-tips (they should really make a steel-wool version), toothpicks and a bit of solvent until all the contacts were cleaned up. I dried it out and put in some dielectric grease in hopes of keeping moisture and crud out of there a little longer.

 

It's certainly not pristine inside the switch, but I figured I would rather spend ten minutes cleaning now and then, than an hour trying to get the little spring, bearing and contact back into the switch.

[bmwmick]

The best thing to do is replace the switch and then install relays for the headlight. You will get a LOT more light out of your headlight and the switch will last forever.

 

Jim Davis at www.easternbeaver.com is one source or you could make your own.

 

Mick

[Clive Liddell]

The clutch interlock switch is not repairable. I opened mine and found that the small 2mm dia return spring had broken (with a fatigue break). Other than that all was perfect inside this well sealed switch. This sealing in contrast to the "user service ablity" of other BMW switches.