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RichEdwards

New GT Oil Change With Pictures

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RichEdwards

Since my dealer charges $85 for an oil change on my '07 GT, I decided to do it myself. It's not the same as my R bikes, so here's how it's done:

First, put the bike on its centerstand, position an oil collection pan underneath and, using an 8mm hex remove the oil drain plug located between two exhaust pipes:

 

244689629-L.jpg

 

Next, remove the last screw in the fairing on the left side under the kick stand so that there is room to get to the oil filter:

 

244689607-L.jpg

 

Since the normal BMW filter removal tool won't fit in the space, I purchased this oil filter tool from a local auto parts store for about $8.00:

 

244689620-L.jpg

 

Using the tool, remove the old filter:

 

244689617-L.jpg

 

Here what it looks like when the filter is off. Since the filter is side mounted, some oil will drip on the nearby pipes.

 

244689630-L.jpg

 

Install the new filter. Since you won't be able to torque the filter, be careful to avoid over-tightening. And since you install the filter sideways, you can't, obviously, fill it with oil before installation.

Install the oil drain plug (32nm) using a new crush washer.

 

The GT has a dry sump tank that must be drained too. Remove the tube from the top of the tank by depressing the ring that holds it on:

 

244689633-L.jpg

 

244689650-L.jpg

 

Then insert an old foam earplug in the end of the tube so that when you snake the tube down for draining, the oil won't come out until you want it to.

 

244689645-L.jpg

 

Here's the bottom of the tube and its connection at the bottom of the dry sump tank:

 

244689636-L.jpg

 

With the tube positioned over the oil collection pan, remove the foam earplug from the tube and let the tank drain. It will take about 20 minutes.

 

244689654-L.jpg

 

Since the engine and the filter drain their oil in front of the center stand and the tube from the dry sump tank drains behind the center stand, I use two oil collection pans:

 

244689656-L.jpg

 

Snake the tube back to the top of the dry sump tank and reinstall.

Fill the oil tank with three quarts, then run the engine, then add the other .7 quart.

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RFW

Excellent, Rich. Simply excellent! As someone looking to get a new GT, ....Thank you!

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smiller
Excellent, Rich. Simply excellent! As someone looking to get a new GT, ....Thank you!
Yes, same here, thanks!

 

Now how about some pix of that valve adjust... grin.gif

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keithb

I did not realize the new K engine had a horizontally mounted oil filter. I guess it was just too darn easy to mount it underneath like they used to be. $85 for an oil change? OUCH! That is certainly incentive to learn how to do it yourself. Nice job Rich. Thanks for sharing.

Edited by keithb

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ESokoloff

Thanks Rich thumbsup.gif

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Calvin  (no socks)

Rich, great pictures.....I don't have a centerstand.... bncry.gif

 

PS. I don't use the small hose to drain the tank. I use a pair of pliers to release the clamp on the bottom of the large hose on the bottom and a piece of cardboard to direct the oil stream away from the pipes and outward to the drain pan... I have multiple oil changes under my belt. The first one I removed all the tupperware... Not any more!

 

Lets adjust the valves next? dopeslap.gif

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BruceWA

Thanks Rich clap.gifclap.gif

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Folkdancer48

Rich,

 

We met at the Spring '07 "El Paseo" in Dillsboro NC. I also met Calvin (with his K12S) at the Fall '07 "El Paseo".

 

First, I wish to add my thanks for your taking the time and effort to show us how you have done oil changes on your K12GT. Even someone as unmechanical as I am should be able to do an oil change, thanks to your instructions.

 

Second, with regard to the oil extractor, I understand how you can drain the main tank, but what about the dry sump?

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Wild Bill

I use an oil extractor on my K1200r Sport. it is quick!

I start the extractor, swap our the oil filter, drain the sump. Then I double check that I got all the oil out with the extractor. Put the oil in as discribed above.

 

Folkdancer48, unfortunely you still have to get underneath to drain the sump.

 

I really think it is quicker, cleaner and easier than doing the same on my old 1150Rt.

 

Cheers..

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RichEdwards

Second, with regard to the oil extractor, I understand how you can drain the main tank, but what about the dry sump?

 

The tank under the seat would be emptied with the oil extractor (thru the same place that you add oil -- it requires removing the basket-strainer that's in that hole). You still need to drain oil by removing the oil drain plug at the bottom of the engine. It's a two-step job.

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Folkdancer48

Ok, thanks for the clarification, Rich. Please let us know how the specific extractor you eventually buy works out.

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Bud Clarke
The tank under the seat would be emptied with the oil extractor (thru the same place that you add oil -- it requires removing the basket-strainer that's in that hole).

I have tried several times to remove the basket with no success. What's the trick?

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stubble!

Assuming you have a thin enough suction hose, don't remove the basket. Just pop off the sight-tube connector as shown above, and stick your extraction tube in the hole.

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RichEdwards
Assuming you have a thin enough suction hose, don't remove the basket. Just pop off the sight-tube connector as shown above, and stick your extraction tube in the hole.

 

True. The hose will fit in that hole so there is no need to remove the basket. :grin:

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stubble!

Jimmy at A&S taught me that trick last month! :)

 

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dhanson

I have done a couple of oil changes and I use a 12v sump pump. They run about $25. Run a tube to bottom of tank through hole where the drain tube comes out of, or if you have an adaptor connect to the tube itself.

 

I try to push the pickup tube into the area below where the drain tube connects to the tank so I get most all of the oil.

 

It will take about 2-1/2 or 3 qts before you crank engine and pump oil into the filter and other parts, then add up to a total of about 3-1/2 qts. Try not to over fill!

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-SeaSense-12V-DC-Oil-Changer-Vacuum-Drain-Fluid-Pump_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ26451QQihZ009QQitemZ190221702825QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Edited by dhanson

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Earl K

Rich, As I drive a 2007 K1200S, I just wanted to say, many thanks. Quite informative and the pics really made the job so much easier. You saved me a few bucks. All the best. Earl, in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.

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SageRider

Earl,

Welcome to the Asylum!!!

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tallman

Rich is away from his computer, at the AARP convention. :/

 

However, as you well know, it is customary to make a sizeable contribution to memebers who provide this type of information.

As his business manager I am happy to say "thank you in advance for your donation."

Pleae PM me for the correct address and spelling of my, I mean his, name. :grin:

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Gadget Magnet

Thanks for the pictorial, it's demystified the process! Much appreciated sharing your knowledge.

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Seamuis

Just had my 6K done and this sounds much more appealing, thanks a million.

 

How often do you change your oil?

 

-Dennis

Edited by Seamuis

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RedHot

Is this method the same as the new GT's? I'm just wondering because I did the 12K a few weeks ago and had to remove the side stand. You don't have to do that?

 

I also did the FD fluid which was sort of messy but there's a great pictorial on how to do both. In July, I'll have to do the 18K and they say that doing the valve adjustment is a REAL PITA and is usaully for nothing! I'll still do it, just because if I don't, my luck will mean that the valves actually did need adjusting. :dopeslap:

 

I do NOT like doing maintenance. I wish I was rich. :( (now that's rich as in wealthy, not rich as in RICH) :grin:

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Firefight911
Is this method the same as the new GT's? I'm just wondering because I did the 12K a few weeks ago and had to remove the side stand. You don't have to do that?

 

I also did the FD fluid which was sort of messy but there's a great pictorial on how to do both. In July, I'll have to do the 18K and they say that doing the valve adjustment is a REAL PITA and is usaully for nothing! I'll still do it, just because if I don't, my luck will mean that the valves actually did need adjusting. :dopeslap:

 

I do NOT like doing maintenance. I wish I was rich. :( (now that's rich as in wealthy, not rich as in RICH) :grin:

 

Exact same.

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Blake A.

Hey - I found this thread when I first got my '07 GT early 2010. Due to reasons beyond my control, like the bike being in the shop at the times oil needed changing, I never had the opportunity to use it.

I did last month and it was very handy and went very simply. I even had the same earplugs on hand.

Thanks for the help.

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fluidj

refreshing an old thread....because I need it :)

hi folks.

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tallman
refreshing an old thread....because I need it :)

hi folks.

 

Every 3,000 views.

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ozlaw

wow, amazing. thank u very much.

 

can u describe how to change gear oil (k 1200 gt 2006)- if u can- with photoes, please.

i thank u in advance.

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vfrman

I just bought a 2013 K1300S, and thanks to this thread, I can perform my own 600 mile service. Thanks!

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BFEBETS

Rich, I know it's been 9 years since this post about changing the oil on a 2007, BMW K1200GT but, I wanted to thank you. I recently bought an 07' and the owner advised me that the only thing it needed was an oil change.

Your DETAILED instructions were very helpful. With the exception of getting the K&N replacement filter in there, everything went great.

Thanks again,

BFEBETS

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tallman

I'll tell him.

He has his GSA, and a 650 Versys, but sometimes doesn't check in

for a while.

Glad it helped.

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digcolnagos

This tutorial was immensely helpful--best thing, by far, on the internet--but I need more help.

 

How does one fill the oil reservoir? This sounds like a silly question, I know, but I'm totally stuck. I've drained the oil, both from the pan and the sump, as per Rich's instructions--and thanks again. I've got the new filter in and also the drain plug (took four days to get the proper crush washer via eBay/Amazon, but oh well--the dealership that did the job for $150 last year didn't bother using a washer, instead opting to reef the plug, as well as the filter, tight beyond any reason). There is a cap labeled "Oil" under the seat--it's seen on the seventh photo down from Rich's original post--but I cannot get it off. The part labeled "Oil" will rotate, but there must be some secret society trick to actually removing it (I'm guessing there's a dipstick there someplace) so that I can fill my bike with oil and enjoy the new riding season. This is killing me--never imagined an oil change would be so fraught with adventure. In theory,as per Rich's tutorial, it should be easier than it was on my 1996 Honda ST1100, But it is proving anything but.

 

Tell me how to get oil into my bike and I'll be your best friend forever, promise. And sorry for being so stupid. Just not mechanically minded.

 

 

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digcolnagos

And the owner's manual is no help. The picture in the manual that came with the bike doesn't look like my bike--the oil reservoir cap on my bike looks like the picture that Rich took. Thanks again for any help.

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Dennis Andress

Unscrew the cap labeled "Oil". It was often tight enough to require pliers to break loose, but 1/2 a turn should get it free. There is a largish O ring under the cap. And, yes, there is a dipstick on the cap.

 

If the cap won't come off then there is something amiss in the oil tank. As a workaround you could (slowly) pour oil in through the sight tube hole

 

244689650-L.jpg

Edited by Dennis Andress
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digcolnagos

The top part labeled "oil" will spin and even lift up a bit, as if spring loaded (I'm assuming this is the part with a dipstick), but it is not threaded, so I am assuming you mean unscrew the bottom part that has flanges. And sorry to be such an idiot. I simply cannot believe that an oil filler cap would be screwed on so snug. The last two oil changes were done by a dealership, and so the over-tightening of the filter and the drain plug and the filler cap wasn't a factory or a shade tree mechanic deal.

 

Thanks again for your help. Appreciate it.

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digcolnagos

SUCCESS!!!

 

Gave it one more "oh, well" giant reef before resorting to pliers, and off it came. I owe you one. Thanks again.

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Arnoaldi

Hi everyone. I am new to this forum, and very much new to attempting an oil change on my '08 K1200GT --- but I moved to a place where the closest dealer is a couple of hundred miles away and I thought I'd give it a try.  RIch's post was a godsend--thank you!

And yet, I must confess that I got stuck on what should be seemingly be an easy step: removing the tube from the dry sump tank. The instructions say that I should succeed by simply depressing the ring that holds it on--but I have been miserably failing -- I assume it is because I am not doing the correct "depressing". I tried pushing rather forcefully on the flat surface at the top of the plug (the one that Rich holds between his two fingers) but to no avail; I also tired pushing down on the ring at the end of the plug--same depressing result.

 

There must be something really easy that I fail to understand and do---could someone please set me straight? Thank you very much in advance!

 

--- SOLVED --- It was indeed easy... :-) Sorry to bother!

Edited by Arnoaldi

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Matt Cero

Hi gents and a few ladies maybe.  I have a '09 K1300GT and am having a problem removing the filter.  I unscrewed it, with a few dents, with the spanning wrench.  But fully unscrewed and off the mount, there is not enough room to get it down from the chassis as it is "trapped" up in there.  Any ideas?  I could make several dents in the top to provide clearance but if anyone has an idea, that would be fantastic.


Thank you.

 

MC

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Rinkydink

Apropos of nothing...I use aluminum foil and wrap my pipe to keep oil off of it. If you have no centerstand just tie each end of your handlebars off to your garage door rails or carport posts etc. 

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KBMWGT
20 hours ago, Matt Cero said:

Hi gents and a few ladies maybe.  I have a '09 K1300GT and am having a problem removing the filter.  I unscrewed it, with a few dents, with the spanning wrench.  But fully unscrewed and off the mount, there is not enough room to get it down from the chassis as it is "trapped" up in there.  Any ideas?  I could make several dents in the top to provide clearance but if anyone has an idea, that would be fantastic.


Thank you.

 

MC

 

You need to loosen the bottom of the lower fairing. There is a bolt to the right of the filter. Remove that and thenyou can pull the fairing partially away for room to remove filter.

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Matt Cero

I did that already to get the filter wrench up in there to unscrew it. It is trapped up higher please know.

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KBMWGT

Wish I could help. Take a pic and lets see what's going on.

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KBMWGT

When the filter is off it barely has clearance to move straight down. More like wiggle it down slow.

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Dennis Andress
On 3/31/2020 at 7:54 AM, Matt Cero said:

I did that already to get the filter wrench up in there to unscrew it. It is trapped up higher please know.

 

The K13S required the shifter linkage to be removed so the filter would clear. BMW has a cross match for a shorter filter that is easier to get out.

Dennis

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Matt Cero

Well I did not remove the shift linkage but loosened the shift lever pivot bolt by 3 or 4 turns and the vacated it enough to slip the filter past.  Thank you.  I'm running Mobil 100% synthetic 15W 50 on the K13 as well as my R1200GSA and they're purring like kittens on it.


MC

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Dennis Andress

The K13S clutch would chatter and screech if I tried to do a fast take off from a stop. There was a lot of talk about this on i-bnw.com (defunct, gone). The cause was eventually thought to be poor oiling to the inside two clutch plates. There were pictures of these plates with their slots full of crud. I found that Motul 4T 7100 helped a lot.

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Matt Cero

Mine chatters starting uphill. 

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