Foot Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 I have a bad clutch switch on my 96 1100RT. My Haynes manual is vague on how to remove the clutch switch. Is there a way to remove the switch without taking the clutch bracket of the handlebars? My bike has heated grips, will that open a can of worms if I have to remove the bracket? Alan Link to comment
russell_bynum Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 Cut the wire close to the switch. Slip a deep socket over the switch and remove. I installed the new one and tightened by hand, then snugged it up with a pair of needlenose pliers. Link to comment
RFW Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 I installed the new one and tightened by hand, then snugged it up with a pair of needlenose pliers. Why not a wrench? Pliers are farmers' tools! Link to comment
russell_bynum Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 I installed the new one and tightened by hand, then snugged it up with a pair of needlenose pliers. Why not a wrench? Pliers are farmers' tools! I didn't have anything that would work. You'd need a deep socket split to allow the wire to slip through. I didn't have one of that, but I had pliers and got the job done. Farmers get stuff done. Link to comment
flars Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 "Why not a wrench? Pliers are farmers' tools!" The switch is recessed into the clutch lever housing. That is why you have to cut the wire and slip a deep socket over the wire and switch. Long nosed needle nose pliers are the only thing that can reach down in there to tighten the switch back up (except for the very expensive tool that BMW most undoubtedly makes). Link to comment
russell_bynum Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 Long nosed needle nose pliers are the only thing that can reach down in there to tighten the switch back up (except for the very expensive tool that BMW most undoubtedly makes). I thought about buying an extra deep socket and cutting a slot in it with my dremel. That would have worked, but why go to all that effort when there's a perfectly functional solution right at your fingertips? It isn't like that switch has to be torqued properly, or anything like that. It just needs to be snugged in there so it doesn't back out. Link to comment
Huzband Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 It isn't like that switch has to be torqued properly... What?! A fastener on a BMW that doesn't have a torque value? Blasphemy! Link to comment
russell_bynum Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 It isn't like that switch has to be torqued properly... What?! A fastener on a BMW that doesn't have a torque value? Blasphemy! I know...what can I say? I'm a heathen. Link to comment
Foot Posted November 27, 2007 Author Share Posted November 27, 2007 Russell you da man! The deep socket was too long to fit becuase of the angle of the handle bars but I had a fairly deep standard socket that worked. Did you use any loctite when you installed the new switch? Alan Link to comment
russell_bynum Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 Did you use any loctite when you installed the new switch? Nope...but what do I know...I used farmer's tools to put it back together. Link to comment
Bprimm Posted November 28, 2007 Share Posted November 28, 2007 Farmers get stuff done yep... Link to comment
ghostriderfan Posted November 28, 2007 Share Posted November 28, 2007 ...sorry...new...not exactly clutch SWITCH but... just had new clutch put in on my 109,000 (in 3 years) 2001 R1100RS...MARVELOUS however, just today...I notice about 20% of the times I pull in the clutch lever there's a very, very slight--but I notice it--"catch"...like the cable(?) is catching on something? Again--VERY slight. Almost don't notice it--except that it was 100% perfectly smooth since driving away after clutch replacement a month ago. Link to comment
flars Posted November 28, 2007 Share Posted November 28, 2007 Re: catch in the cable. ASSUMING the clutch cable ends are properly greased - it could be that the hole in the clutch lever where the cable attaches is worn, i.e. slightly out of round. Link to comment
Ken H. Posted November 28, 2007 Share Posted November 28, 2007 Did you use any loctite when you installed the new switch?The connected wires on the new one will keep it from rotating out. At least from enough to matter. Finger tight even is plenty to assure the switch will continue to work. Link to comment
ShovelStrokeEd Posted November 28, 2007 Share Posted November 28, 2007 Did you use any loctite when you installed the new switch?The connected wires on the new one will keep it from rotating out. At least from enough to matter. Finger tight even is plenty to assure the switch will continue to work. All you need is a tie wrap on the handle bar close to the switch, that way the cable acts as a stay and will prevent the switch from rotating. Link to comment
russell_bynum Posted November 28, 2007 Share Posted November 28, 2007 Did you use any loctite when you installed the new switch?The connected wires on the new one will keep it from rotating out. At least from enough to matter. Finger tight even is plenty to assure the switch will continue to work. All you need is a tie wrap on the handle bar close to the switch, that way the cable acts as a stay and will prevent the switch from rotating. Yep. Link to comment
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