Replacing rear subframe - Can I remove pivot pin without losing alignment?

[Bill Dennes]

I bent the rear subframe of my 1150RT in a shop accident. I've ordered a replacement and have the bike mostly torn down. BUT I'm concerned about the engine and front subframe staying in alignment with each other when I pull the pivot pin that the rear frame pivots around. That pin must be pulled right out and also it locates the engine to the front subframe (1 of 2 such pins).

 

The bike is supported by its centerstand and front wheel, now properly strapped together.

 

Advice welcome. TIA

[Ken H.]

It should be fine. The alignment is held in place by the bushings and should go back into place. You'll want to pull it apart with the front strut extended though. Else everything will move rather suddenly when it comes apart.

 

Gosh Bill, first the clutch marathon, now this. Sucks.

[Bill Dennes]

Uh-oh, now I'm confused again. Bushings? I'm looking to remove part #3 in the attached clip from the ETK.

 

All of the instructions that I see about raising the rear subframe emphasize that the nuts on #3 are to be loosened but the pin itself is NOT to be removed. Is this caution for the purpose of not letting the rear subframe get away, or is it to prevent the front end from pivoting around part #8 and collapsing when the #3 pin is removed?

 

No bushings in the picture.

[Boffin]

Once the pin is removed the job of putting it all back together again gets MUCH harder, with looms to line up and all sorts of bits and pieces to get in the right place.

Given that you are replacing the rear subframe you are pretty much stuck with that extra difficulty.

 

Andy

[Bill Dennes]

I think that I'm ready. I've removed everything from the subframe and found that the stud/pin will slide freely back and forth when both nuts are backed off. This tells me that there's no load hanging on the stud/pin to surprise me when I remove the stud/pin.

 

I took good notes and some pictures to remind me of how things are routed. I also bundled the stuff that stays between the sides of the subframe (electrics box, etc) together to keep it where it belongs. My bench has about fifteen "502 bags" with the fasteners from various steps.

 

Now I wait for the part, due next Tuesday.

[DaveyMac]

Bill, Id like to see how far you gutted your bike, been following your saga.

Dave

[Bill Dennes]

I'll try to make pictures visible, but...

 

The pix I have are too big to attach.

 

I can't get the "Image" link to work at either the old host of my web site (Adelphia) or the new one (Roadrunner). I used Front Page to get 'em posted, and I must not have the host directory structure correct(?).

 

Maybe I can find a JPEG shrinker to make them small enough to attach.

 

[Boffin]

I'll try to make pictures visible, but...

 

The pix I have are too big to attach.

 

I can't get the "Image" link to work at either the old host of my web site (Adelphia) or the new one (Roadrunner). I used Front Page to get 'em posted, and I must not have the host directory structure correct(?).

 

Maybe I can find a JPEG shrinker to make them small enough to attach.

 

 

Use Irfanview a freeware ap that will let you resize your pics and save at a lower quality without loss of view-ability.

 

The attached pic started at 10MB

[270]

Uh-oh, now I'm confused again. Bushings? I'm looking to remove part #3 in the attached clip from the ETK.

 

All of the instructions that I see about raising the rear subframe emphasize that the nuts on #3 are to be loosened but the pin itself is NOT to be removed. Is this caution for the purpose of not letting the rear subframe get away, or is it to prevent the front end from pivoting around part #8 and collapsing when the #3 pin is removed?

 

No bushings in the picture.

 

Bill, you can drive it out no problem. Here is what I did, er...what I would do. Put the side plate mounting bolts in trapping the frame to the tranny. Take the nuts off of the shaft, and drive one side in enough to pull the frame away, then go to the other side and drive it through to release the frame.

 

You can drive it out, but it's a PIA to get it driven back in. You should have no issues though.

[Bill Dennes]

Thanks, Andy! IrfanView did the trick!

 

Bogumbus - I'm fixing to support the weight of the subframe and have a helper pull the pin straight out the left side. I'll pull the subframe straight back and ask the helper to replace the pin immediately. I chose the left side to pull from because the right nut was the one that came off. I think that this strategy will work because the pin seems to slide freely now.

 

Attached is a side view of the bike with the subframe stripped down, still in place. It's raised a little and held in place by a broom.

[Bill Dennes]

... and here is a view that shows the electrics box hanging over the swingarm by its wires.

 

Above the left throttle body you can see the red tape that I used to bundle wires and cables together and out of the way of the subframe when I remove/install it. I did this on both sides to eliminate guesswork.

[Bill Dennes]

Finally, here's the bike without the subframe. I used a long #3 Phillips screwdriver to push the pin about 2/3 of the way out, then pulled the pin by hand from the left side.

 

After I pulled the screwdriver out, I had to do some fancy wiggling to get the subframe clear but off it came eventually.

 

[Bill Dennes]

Yesterday I rode my BMW! Ahhhhhh.

 

The battery box seems to have gotten a tweak during the subframe bending. No big deal, just have to push the battery to the right when raising the subframe.

 

All things equal, I have NO plans to raise the subframe until I put 30k more miles on and need to do the splines again.

 

[Ken H.]

Nicely done Bill!

[DaveyMac]

Nicely done Bill!

[bmweerman]

I am sorry I came to this thread so late, but just wanted to give you your props for doing this job! I replaced a front sub-frame and that was hard enough!!

 

Good job

 

Cameron