ABS Lights Blinking

[amboy]

The last couple of times I've taken out my 2000, R1100RT, the ABS lights blink continuously from the moment I fire the bike up, until I turn off the ignition after a ride. I've tried depressing the ABS switch on the dash, but it doen't clear up the problem. Since I don't have an owner's manual and I haven't had the chance to get a Clymer's manual, does anyone know what the system is trying to tell me? Thanks/rich

[LGannon]

Have you checked the rear brake bulb?

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

The last couple of times I've taken out my 2000, R1100RT, the ABS lights blink continuously from the moment I fire the bike up, until I turn off the ignition after a ride. I've tried depressing the ABS switch on the dash, but it doen't clear up the problem. Since I don't have an owner's manual and I haven't had the chance to get a Clymer's manual, does anyone know what the system is trying to tell me? Thanks/rich

 

If it's cold weather, and the lights blink together before engine-start and then blink alternately after engine-start, then you've probably got a low voltage fault. If you ride for a couple of miles then shut down and restart and the blinking lights go away, then that's it.

 

Cures:

-wait for warmer weather. The battery will be more energetic, and the engine will be easier to crank, so the battery voltage won't dip so much while cranking.

 

-get a brand new battery. If your battery is very old, this will likely make a difference.

 

-Whenever the fault happens, ride a couple of miles; shut down; and restart. The slightly warmed-up engine will be easier to crank, and the battery will also have warmed up somewhat (due to cranking and charging currents). The battery's voltage won't dip so much when restarting under these circumstances.

 

If the lights blink alternately as soon as you turn the key then you've got a persistent fault, which is something other than a low-voltage issue (unless your battery is terminally ill). Click here and go to pages 71-72 to find out how to read the fault codes from your bike.

[Dick_at_Lake_Tahoe_NV]

This "failure" is almost always caused by a weak battery, where the battery drops below a pre-set threhold and the ABS doesn't re-set. Either Charge it up, or replace it, and the problem will most certainly go away.

[elkroeger]

I have a 1100rs, and as I understand it, the abs wasn't wired up as intelligently as it could have been at the factory. You'll need to decide IF it's a low voltage fault. If it really is a low voltage fault, caused by cold weather, etc., don't just run out and buy a new battery. You'll be buying a new battery every 6 months. There are numerous threads about this, and it will pay to dig them up. There are some mods that can effectively solve the problem by changing when or where the abs gets its power.

 

here's a link that I got off this website a while back....

 

As for me, I am planning to add a relay so that the abs power gets cut upon startup, along with the headlight. But I haven't done it yet. Good luck!

[Beemr69]

Does the headlight not shut down on startup , thru the load shed relay ?

[GordonB]

Sent you a PM.

[NonComp]

Are there any specific posts on which wire to cut if you want to simply interrupt the power to the ABS with a push-and-hold button (similar to the ABS cancel button on the dash)? Could one use the ABS button on the dash for this purpose (or is in a push-to-close switch)?

[notacop]

That wonderful little 3 pin plug under the seat that is used for the reset of the error...I got a ground wire permanently plugged into mine. Some months it wants to be aggrevating and fault a lot. Yah sur' new battery, Have two sets of wheel I rotate depending on the tire condition and the trip length and it wants to be difficult everytime I swap. It finally settles into operation after a while though. Have your battery checked and clean and the sensors and check the gap.

[elkroeger]

Does the headlight not shut down on startup , thru the load shed relay ?

 

Yup, it does. I may not have written that very clearly. I plan to add a relay to the abs, and power it with the headlight, which gets cut out with that load shed relay. That's the plan, anyway...

[bmwmick]

Are there any specific posts on which wire to cut if you want to simply interrupt the power to the ABS with a push-and-hold button (similar to the ABS cancel button on the dash)? Could one use the ABS button on the dash for this purpose (or is in a push-to-close switch)?

 

Pin#15 on the large ABS connector.

IF you have headlamp relays installed, the Load Shed relay 'can' be used to provide this 'test' power to the ABS control unit. I have done both mods about 10 times so far on my bike and others. Both methods work great.

I believe Clive in SA has just installed a NC pushbutton switch. Once his engine is running, he presses the button for a few seconds to let the ABS re-test.

 

Mick

[NonComp]

I believe Clive in SA has just installed a NC pushbutton switch. Once his engine is running, he presses the button for a few seconds to let the ABS re-test.

That's interesting. I was thinking about it the other way: hold button to lock out (isolate) ABS until after start, then release to allow ABS self-test.

[OlGeezer]

In addition to the standard (and very good) answers you've already received, check your brake pads. I had this problem with a new Odyssey battery this summer. Problem went away with new brake pads.