bobbybob Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 My OEM standard shocks had 9K miles and were starting to detract from the fun. Limecreek's excellent Ohlins installation write-up inspired me to attempt the rear Ohlins install on my 07 R12RT. However, I ran into an unexpected glitch: when I started to unscrew the lower shock mounting bolt (that is threaded into the swingarm) I got about 2 rotations before it refused to turn any further. The 50mm torx bit was hopping in & out of the slot and I was in danger of buggering the screw head up good. So off to Harbor Freight and bought their $39 electric impact wrench (240 ft-lbs of torque). The first try exploded the torx bit immediately. Luckily I had 2 others of varying quality. Torx #2 held, but it wasn't turning--just making lots of vibrating and noise. I tried screwing it in and back out rapidly and finally it began turning very slowly. After 5 or so slooowww revs it suddenly broke loose and blue powdery stuff came shooting out around the threads. I think Hans & Franz used JB Weld instead of Loctite. The rest of the install went according to Limecreek's plan...except for the fact that I re-tightened all fasteners to Ft-lbs instead of NM's. Something in my feeble brain alerted me to that fact as I climbed into bed at 2AM after the install. First thing this morning, I re-did the almost entire install (this time in 25 mins.) and made sure I read the proper scale on the torque wrench. Fortunately none of the threads were galled. And then I went for a ride: WOO-HOO. What a difference. Composed. Planted. Smooth. Stable. Fast. $180 performance award fast. But he reduced it to 64 in a 55 . Even that little distraction didn't ablate my exuberance. Just....wow. And that was just the rear shock--out of the box, no tuning--and front is next!! I feel like I just bought a brand new bike--it is truly the difference between "just riding" and "flying". Yes, what everyone else already said is true. But now I have discovered it and will immediately start being obnoxious to anyone that doesn't drink the Ohlins Kool-Aid too. But I have a question: between my arthritic thumb and the limited clearance it is difficult to adjust the rear rebound damper settings. Has anyone "invented" some sort of a little wrench-type thingie that fits over the rubber knurled Ohlins damper knob--something to give one a little leverage in turning it, and maybe avoid 3rd degree burns from the exhaust pipe? Link to comment
John in VA Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 WOO-HOO. What a difference. Composed. Planted. Smooth. Stable. Fast. Looks like you've drunk the KWOO-HOOLAID. Link to comment
SageRider Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 ...But now I have discovered it and will immediately start being obnoxious to anyone that doesn't drink the Ohlins Kool-Aid too... Welcome to the club! Link to comment
Fran Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 ...But now I have discovered it and will immediately start being obnoxious to anyone that doesn't drink the Ohlins Kool-Aid too... I just love the taste!!!! Fran Link to comment
Limecreek Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 But I have a question: between my arthritic thumb and the limited clearance it is difficult to adjust the rear rebound damper settings. Has anyone "invented" some sort of a little wrench-type thingie that fits over the rubber knurled Ohlins damper knob--something to give one a little leverage in turning it, and maybe avoid 3rd degree burns from the exhaust pipe? It sounds like you are reaching in from the wrong side of the motorcycle to make the adjustment. Try kneeling on the right side of the motorcycle and reach underneath with your left hand. It is very easy to get 4 out of 5 of your fingers on the adjustment ring by reaching under the bike like you are milking a cow--well sort of like a cow. Reaching in from the right will avoid the hot exhaust too. Link to comment
bobbybob Posted November 11, 2007 Author Share Posted November 11, 2007 But I have a question: between my arthritic thumb and the limited clearance it is difficult to adjust the rear rebound damper settings. Has anyone "invented" some sort of a little wrench-type thingie that fits over the rubber knurled Ohlins damper knob--something to give one a little leverage in turning it, and maybe avoid 3rd degree burns from the exhaust pipe? It sounds like you are reaching in from the wrong side of the motorcycle to make the adjustment. Try kneeling on the right side of the motorcycle and reach underneath with your left hand. It is very easy to get 4 out of 5 of your fingers on the adjustment ring by reaching under the bike like you are milking a cow--well sort of like a cow. Reaching in from the right will avoid the hot exhaust too. Thanks Gregory--that works. But my arthritic thumb still presents a problem--I can turn it one way but not the other. Once I get it set just right though, I won't have to mess with it again....right? Link to comment
Ken H. Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 For future reference of others who might be reading this, you need to heat the bolt to release the thread locking compond before attempting removal. Link to comment
bobbybob Posted November 11, 2007 Author Share Posted November 11, 2007 For future reference of others who might be reading this, you need to heat the bolt to release the thread locking compond before attempting removal. Ken, how is this safely accomplished at this bolt? Please elaborate-thanks. Link to comment
Ken H. Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 For future reference of others who might be reading this, you need to heat the bolt to release the thread locking compound before attempting removal. Ken, how is this safely accomplished at this bolt? Please elaborate-thanks.Take a heat gun (not a torch) and heat soak the end of the bolt for about 10 minutes. The heat will conduct down the bolt and release the thread lock. Link to comment
Tony_K Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 Heat gun as stated but a heat gun is also not in the typical tool in the caddy of the "momentary weekend mechanic" Expect to pay 60 to 150 for this occasional accessory. Link to comment
bobbybob Posted November 11, 2007 Author Share Posted November 11, 2007 I have a 1300 watt Black & Decker paint stripper gun--I assume this is what you mean. What about the finish on the swingarm--is there a clear coat paint--or even a color on it? Seems the heat gun would destroy that.... Link to comment
Tony_K Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 That's the thing, you walk a fine line between knowing that your heating it and cooking it. Be cautious and careful. Link to comment
Don_Eilenberger Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 Heat gun as stated but a heat gun is also not in the typical tool in the caddy of the "momentary weekend mechanic" Expect to pay 60 to 150 for this occasional accessory. Harbor Freight sells a perfectly adequate one for the weekend mechanic. On sale right now for $8.. it heated the bolts on my R1200R just fine (and the R1200R BMW manual does warn of the need of heat..) Hopefully the OP did put some new locktite on the bolt on reinstallation? I'm sure it's there for a reason. Blue loctite (medium strength) will work just fine in this application. Link to comment
bobbybob Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 Harbor Freight sells a perfectly adequate one for the weekend mechanic. On sale right now for $8.. it heated the bolts on my R1200R just fine (and the R1200R BMW manual does warn of the need of heat..) Hopefully the OP did put some new locktite on the bolt on reinstallation? I'm sure it's there for a reason. Blue loctite (medium strength) will work just fine in this application. Don, I assume no heat damage was done to the swing-arm finish--and again I am not *positive* there IS a finish, but there appears to be one...? Yes, I did use blue loctite--thanks. Link to comment
Ken H. Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 What about the finish on the swingarm--is there a clear coat paint--or even a color on it? Seems the heat gun would destroy that.... We're not talking that hot. Couple hundred degrees. Well less than what would do finish damage. Link to comment
Don_Eilenberger Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 Don, I assume no heat damage was done to the swing-arm finish--and again I am not *positive* there IS a finish, but there appears to be one...? Yes, I did use blue loctite--thanks. None at all... it took about 5 minutes with the Harbor Freight gun set on high to heat it enough to loosen easily. Link to comment
Don_Eilenberger Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 BTW - here is the heat gun I use.. once you sign up for email from them you'll get weekly mailings with sale coupons.. this week included the heat gun for $7.99.. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=35776 Link to comment
bobbybob Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 BTW - here is the heat gun I use.. once you sign up for email from them you'll get weekly mailings with sale coupons.. this week included the heat gun for $7.99.. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=35776 Thanks guys--I'll be real careful--the front shock is next and I hear that bolt is equally tough to dislodge, so the heat should help this time. Link to comment
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