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Installing Stebel horn on R1200ST


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A Stebel horn was installed on my first ST, it worked great, but I never checked where the physical placement was. I'd like to install one on my new ST, but I can't figure out a workable spot for it. Has anyone solved this problem? any advice would be appreciated. BTW I ordered a fuse box and wiring from Eastern Beaver, Jim was very helpful, service was prompt and price seemed reasonable. thumbsup.gif

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I would like to know as well!
Great. I see JVB has replied to this so of course I thought "oh, he's installed one on Tina's bike."

 

There goes my view of you as omniscient. smile.gif

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I would like to know as well!
Great. I see JVB has replied to this so of course I thought "oh, he's installed one on Tina's bike."

 

There goes my view of you as omniscient. smile.gif

 

 

Funny, I thought almost the same thing. Oh how the mighty have fallen. lmao.gif

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At the risk of incurring the wrath of Russell Bynum, I have installed a Stebel on mine.

 

I took the charcoal cannister off of the front right of the fuel tank and used that mounting point. Just got a longer bolt. This caused no interference problems internally. There may be other possibilities, but this seemed to be easy. Mounted the relay in the nose of the fairing. Another fellow who gave me the idea said he had to cut the inside of the fairing for clearance while mounting it differently. I didn't want to do that.

 

My local tech said that removing the cannister wouldn't cause any problems if I left the solenoid valve connected in the electrical system. It hasn't in almost two years.

 

Ran a 14 ga. wire (I think) directly from the battery to the relay, and ran the same back to the battery for ground. There aren't many good grounds up front. I used the wires to the stock horn for actuating the relay.

 

It makes a sound that is out of proportion to the size of the vehicle and makes me smile. It's not the answer to everything, just another weapon in the arsenal.

 

Frank

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I took the charcoal cannister off of the front right of the fuel tank and used that mounting point. Just got a longer bolt. This caused no interference problems internally.

 

Thanks Frank, I'll look at the placement there. Another tool in the arsenal never hurts, and this one is fun to use on occasion. Is there anything to watch out for when removing the canister? thumbsup.gif

 

Peter

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I took the charcoal cannister off of the front right of the fuel tank and used that mounting point. Just got a longer bolt. This caused no interference problems internally.

 

Thanks Frank, I'll look at the placement there. Another tool in the arsenal never hurts, and this one is fun to use on occasion. Is there anything to watch out for when removing the canister?

 

Just make sure that the upper hose (I think) is open to atmosphere for venting the tank. It's the one that goes toward the top of the tank. I plugged the other one and left the solenoid valve hooked up to the harness and tyrapped it out of the way. I used the hole in the tank to mount the horn. A little blue Loctite on the bolt and it's been good for about two years. Of course, mount the horn with the outlet toward the bottom. The beauty of this is that is is totally reversible if you ever want to, except that I cut the stock horn connectors off and put on bayonet style to fit the relay.

 

Frank

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Just make sure that the upper hose (I think) is open to atmosphere for venting the tank. It's the one that goes toward the top of the tank. I plugged the other one and left the solenoid valve hooked up to the harness and tyrapped it out of the way. I used the hole in the tank to mount the horn. A little blue Loctite on the bolt and it's been good for about two years. Of course, mount the horn with the outlet toward the bottom. The beauty of this is that is is totally reversible if you ever want to, except that I cut the stock horn connectors off and put on bayonet style to fit the relay.

 

Thanks Frank,

 

I think I'll use Posi-lock connectors and tap into the stock horn lines without removing the stock horn. That way I might not get faults coming up on the computer, (I always hated failing tests) smirk.gif

 

So JVB, do you think these are workable solutions? lurker.gif

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hi ,i took the origanol horn off cut the wires and put the connectors supplyed with the horn on ,fitted it back in the original place with a little bit of bending of the plates and fits fine.andy

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I fitted one of these too, and like rew, I just cut off the original connectors and fitted it to the same location as the original horn. It does protrude slightly below the lower fairing section, but gravity should keep it from getting too much water inside.

 

Fitted about six months ago and have had the wettest riding this year in all my riding history. No problems on the instal or operation.

Can be completed without removal of anything, other than the old horn.

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Just make sure that the upper hose (I think) is open to atmosphere for venting the tank. It's the one that goes toward the top of the tank. I plugged the other one and left the solenoid valve hooked up to the harness and tyrapped it out of the way. I used the hole in the tank to mount the horn. A little blue Loctite on the bolt and it's been good for about two years. Of course, mount the horn with the outlet toward the bottom. The beauty of this is that is is totally reversible if you ever want to, except that I cut the stock horn connectors off and put on bayonet style to fit the relay.

 

Thanks Frank,

 

I think I'll use Posi-lock connectors and tap into the stock horn lines without removing the stock horn. That way I might not get faults coming up on the computer, (I always hated failing tests) smirk.gif

 

So JVB, do you think these are workable solutions? lurker.gif

 

It sounds reasonable to me, IF you are willing to remove the carbon canister. I would prefer not to.

 

I wont cut off the connector, a simple tinning of the end of the signal wire, not the wite 1/2" from the end, and some shrink wrap will hold it in. You can use the ground if you like, but of course everything goes through the relay first. You wont get any fault indications on the dash, but your computer will record a horn fault. Everything will work normally.

 

Jim cool.gif

 

PS Thanks for the suggestions.

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I did one on my friend Joel's bike. After much looking and head scratching, I ended up attaching it with two large wire ties to the charcoal cannister on the right front of the bike. It is operated thru a fuse block under the left front cover. We should have Joel's bike sufficently torn down at the tech day on Saturday that I could take some pic of the installation if needed.

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I did one on my friend Joel's bike. After much looking and head scratching, I ended up attaching it with two large wire ties to the charcoal cannister on the right front of the bike. It is operated thru a fuse block under the left front cover. We should have Joel's bike sufficently torn down at the tech day on Saturday that I could take some pic of the installation if needed.

 

I'm a visual learner, pics would be greatly appreciated, thanks. clap.gif

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  • 4 years later...

Just finished mine up today. Here are the in-place shots:

 

Steibl1.jpg

 

Steibl2.jpg

 

I left short ends on the zip-ties in case I need to tighten them up after a while.

 

 

 

 

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