Great Ohlins article in December rider Magazine

[Fran]

On page 86, the GearLab column features a brief article on Ohlins, and the differences experienced on an 02 R1150R over the stock shocks, after leading in with a mention of a factory optioned Ohlins equipped R1200S. Thouhgt I'd mention it.

Fran

[Firefight911]

Why? So Foghorn and I can get into it with the ABS, stock shock, ESA, blah, blah, blah types???

 

I'M KIDDING!!!!!!! Take a valium and call the suicide hotline!! I think Foghorn is there now.

 

[russell_bynum]

I don't get Rider magazine...what's the "Reader's Digest" version of the story?

[black99S]

Get to the newstand and buy Rider.

The walk will do you good

[Fran]

I don't get Rider magazine...what's the "Reader's Digest" version of the story?

 

Ohlins good!!! Basically stated most performance upgrades are not that noticeable, the Ohlins is like slap you in the face noticeable performance gain over stock. Claimed the bike set up as a tourer, was fine for around town with stock set up, but after 15 minutes of twisties the stock shocks would overheat, not perform, blah, blah, blah. Slap in the Ohlins, transformed the bike.

I have them on my 05 1200RT non ESA, and must concur with the author.

Thats it in a nutshell.

Fran

[russell_bynum]

I don't get Rider magazine...what's the "Reader's Digest" version of the story?

 

Ohlins good!!! Basically stated most performance upgrades are not that noticeable, the Ohlins is like slap you in the face noticeable performance gain over stock. Claimed the bike set up as a tourer, was fine for around town with stock set up, but after 15 minutes of twisties the stock shocks would overheat, not perform, blah, blah, blah. Slap in the Ohlins, transformed the bike.

I have them on my 05 1200RT non ESA, and must concur with the author.

Thats it in a nutshell.

Fran

 

Cool, thanks. I totally agree. I'd forgotten about the stockers overheating and going off...majorly annoying.

 

I was getting that big time with the stock forks on my CBR at the track. Stock bits (which is pretty decent, but not great, and WAY too soft) and 3 year-old fork oil. I'd get about 6 laps in, and it would start to go off. By the end of the session, I'm bottoming the forks on the brakes, and pogoing through the turns. I had Dave Moss at CRST install naughty bits from GP Suspension (springs and valves) and now it's good for the whole session.

 

A nice bumpy road, and my RT's stock bits were totally gone. No such issues with the aftermarket goodies (Works Performance).

[Pictou]

Ohlins suspension has made my 05RT much nicer to ride. As stated the difference is immediately noticeable. While not every upgrade is worth the money this one is in my opinon.

[russell_bynum]

While not every upgrade is worth the money this one is in my opinon.

 

For sure.

 

As far as "bang for your buck" upgrades, #1 is rider training, and #2 is suspension.

[Firefight911]

While not every upgrade is worth the money this one is in my opinon.

 

For sure.

 

As far as "bang for your buck" upgrades, #1 is rider training, and #2 is suspension.

 

Absolutely!!!!!

 

When I was learning to race, my mentor kept saying the same thing over and over and over!!! "If you want to go faster, change the rider!!!!"

 

He MADE me ride around for a year on a basically stock machine. I needed to learn to ride first. First mod made when he allowed it was suspension.

 

We then proceeded to cut lap after lap with a poorly set up suspension. First, too much preload. Then, too little. Then we screwed up all the damping adjustments. Had to learn what the different adjustments meant and did before I could possibly understand how to make the adjustments that made th bike better and handle correctly.

 

Greatest thing I ever had to do!! It truly made all the difference in the world.

 

With that I would add #3: Understand what the suspension does and how it works and how to correctly adjust it.

[russell_bynum]

[We then proceeded to cut lap after lap with a poorly set up suspension. First, too much preload. Then, too little. Then we screwed up all the damping adjustments. Had to learn what the different adjustments meant and did before I could possibly understand how to make the adjustments that made th bike better and handle correctly.[/b]

 

Right...that's a really common strategy. I believe Nicky went to Freddie Spencer back in his early roadracing days and Freddie did that to him....max preload, then min preload. Max rebound damping, then min. etc. It really lets you feel what each adjustment does.

[bobbybob]

Can someone give me a couple of suggestions re. where to buy Ohlins for my R12RT (Non-ESA)? I know who the (2) Wilbers dealers are.

One other question: how important is the remote rebound/compression adjusters vs. the shock mounted? An expensive option on the Wilbers--and not sure if it's even available on the Ohlins? Any advice is apprecciated!

[bakerzdosen]

Can someone give me a couple of suggestions re. where to buy Ohlins

Hard Racing is one place.

[Pictou]

Ohlins has the rebound adjustment on the shock and remote pre-load adjuster that is very similar to the stock one. Both are extremely easy to get to and adjust.

 

One other question: how important is the remote rebound/compression adjusters vs. the shock mounted? An expensive option on the Wilbers--and not sure if it's even available on the Ohlins? Any advice is apprecciated!

[Firefight911]

Can someone give me a couple of suggestions re. where to buy Ohlins

Hard Racing is one place.

 

Got mine for my R12GS Adventure from Kyle racing. HIGHLY recommend them!! LINKY

[AS1200ST]

Why did you elect to go with Ohlins for the GS and not Wilbers like your ST?

[Firefight911]

Ohlins has their new shock for the Adventure which is designed with off road in mind. Dual bladder reservoir.

 

Ohlins has more off road experience.

 

I am equally impressed with both shocks. Just a better round peg for a round hole with the Ohlins for this application.

 

IMO, YMMV!

[JerryF]

Any bike shop that is a parts unlimited dealer (just about all bike shops are) can get the ohlins. The ohlins are rebound and preload adjustable only. Once adjusted you rarely need to make any more than one or two clicks on rebound (front & rear) and a twist of the preload (rear) to adjust for solo or two up. Takes about a minute or two.

 

Cheers

Jerry

[russell_bynum]

Any bike shop that is a parts unlimited dealer (just about all bike shops are) can get the ohlins.

 

Cheers

Jerry

 

True, but you're better off if you can work with a real suspension tuner to make sure you get the best setup for your riding style and load range.

 

That's where gurus like Dan Kyle come in.

[Firefight911]

True, but you're better off if you can work with a real suspension tuner to make sure you get the best setup for your riding style and load range.

 

That's where gurus like Dan Kyle come in.

 

Dan spent about 30 minutes with me on the phone "designing" my suspension. He asked about likes, dislikes, use, weight, solo, 2-up, and the list goes on!

 

Dan is committed to getting you the suspension you want. Unique to each persons objective and subjective view of what they want to feel when riding.

 

[JerryF]

True, but if you do not have a local guru. You can call a guru or call ohlins and get a ballpark setting. And best of all, one could use this site. it is full of very good info to guide one in the right direction.

 

Jerry

[bobbybob]

True, but you're better off if you can work with a real suspension tuner to make sure you get the best setup for your riding style and load range.

 

That's where gurus like Dan Kyle come in.

 

Dan spent about 30 minutes with me on the phone "designing" my suspension. He asked about likes, dislikes, use, weight, solo, 2-up, and the list goes on!

 

Dan is committed to getting you the suspension you want. Unique to each persons objective and subjective view of what they want to feel when riding.

 

 

 

OK--probably a dumb question but I am still learning here. When you order a shock for a specific bike, say an Ohlins BM504 (46DRS), what specifically is done to that shock before they ship it to you? Is a spring changed to match your weight? Or do they just crank the pre-load down to where they think it should be, and make an educated guess for your rebound setting based on how you tell them you ride?

[Firefight911]

They match the appropriate spring for your weight/use.

 

They build the valving inside the shock based on what parameters you are looking for. For example, nice cushy cruiser ride vs a firm, sporty sportbike ride vs a dirt bike compliant but not bottoming ride.

 

The valving, the spring, the oil, etc. are all customized for your specific likes/dislikes/riding styles/purpose.

 

Once this is all done, the shocks are installed and then the initial sag is set. After, AND ONLY AFTER, the spring is verified as correct, the preload is set, and the damping is verified for baseline do you go ride the bike and start to adjust the damping rates to fine tune your bike.

 

Even then I usually won't mess with it for 200 to 300 miles as the shock has a lot of stiction when new and also when cold.

 

Small adjustments are made and then logged. Each and every change needs to be documented if you are going to be able to know what you are doing and also to return to baseline at some point inteh future after you bugger it up.

 

It sounds like it is rocket science, but it really isn't. It just takes a bit of patience and understanding of basic suspension control. It can be learned in about an afternoon.

 

Hope this helps shed some light on things.

[bobbybob]

They match the appropriate spring for your weight/use.

 

They build the valving inside the shock based on what parameters you are looking for. For example, nice cushy cruiser ride vs a firm, sporty sportbike ride vs a dirt bike compliant but not bottoming ride.

 

The valving, the spring, the oil, etc. are all customized for your specific likes/dislikes/riding styles/purpose.

 

Once this is all done, the shocks are installed and then the initial sag is set. After, AND ONLY AFTER, the spring is verified as correct, the preload is set, and the damping is verified for baseline do you go ride the bike and start to adjust the damping rates to fine tune your bike.

 

Even then I usually won't mess with it for 200 to 300 miles as the shock has a lot of stiction when new and also when cold.

 

Small adjustments are made and then logged. Each and every change needs to be documented if you are going to be able to know what you are doing and also to return to baseline at some point inteh future after you bugger it up.

 

It sounds like it is rocket science, but it really isn't. It just takes a bit of patience and understanding of basic suspension control. It can be learned in about an afternoon.

 

Hope this helps shed some light on things.

 

So if I order Ohlins from Hard Racing...or any of their dealers...that dealer will actually change valving and springs? Does Wilbers do same? Thinking of the Wilbers for front (cheaper) and Ohlins for rear...but then Wilbers has compression AND rebound for about the same cost as Ohlins without compression. Decisions, decisions,....

[bobbybob]

But do I really NEED remote rebound/compression damping reservoir (i.e. Wilbers)on a touring bike? Maybe remote *preload* would be all I really need "remotely"..? Somebody tell me what I need...I am an idiot.

[Firefight911]

Yes, your valving will be custom. When you receive your shocks, they will have a "build sheet" that you need to keep. This has the specs for the parts used internally and for the spring.

 

As for remote preload, get it!!! It makes life much easier. As for remote reservoir, no, you probably do not need it. The remote reservoirs prime function is that of increasing capacity. This is important in race applications where lots of shock action creates heat. More fluid allows heat dissipation to be increased and temp rise to be decreased. This preserves the "action" of the shock over the course of a race, etc.

 

You prolly do not need separate Hi/Lo compression adjustment either. This is an advanced set up and the usual street rider will, more than likely, not notice this adjustment.

 

Hi speed compression - the fast acting compression of the shock due to a sharp movement.

 

Lo speed compression - undulations and the slow compression of the shock due to a rolling, non sharp bump.

 

Rebound - the velocity that the shock extends after being compressed.

 

Valving - controls speed that fluid is allowed to move past. This controls action of shock.

 

Preload - the static force of the applied spring. When correct it will have the fully clothed rider on the bike in the riding position with normal load (luggage, passenger, etc.). It will utilize approximatley 1/3 of the total shock stroke.

[bobbybob]

Thanks Phil--I'll take your advice and go with the Ohlins.

 

Oops 1 more question--the preload sag you described above--is that (1/3 compressed) with the preload set to the lowest or somewhere in between?

[JerryF]

Yes! you do need the adjustments.

 

All of this sounds a little daunting. It really isn't. Imagine a person for the first time buying a car with 12 way power/ heated seats. That person may think. Why would i need to adjust my seat in 12 different ways. And won't my ass catch on fire! It must be a gimick. But after a little time no way would they go back to just fore and aft adjustment.

 

All quality aftermarket shocks come with a guide. And as mentioned before. There is a wealth of info on this site.

 

Cheers

Jerry

[Firefight911]

Thanks Phil--I'll take your advice and go with the Ohlins.

 

Oops 1 more question--the preload sag you described above--is that (1/3 compressed) with the preload set to the lowest or somewhere in between?

 

Your shocks, Wilbers/Ohlins, will come with set up guides. The guide and a friend will have you started in very little time! Oh, don't forget the after ride beer.

[russell_bynum]

True, but if you do not have a local guru. You can call a guru or call ohlins and get a ballpark setting. And best of all, one could use this site. it is full of very good info to guide one in the right direction.

 

Jerry

 

I wasn't talking about "what adjustments do I make to the shock/" settings...I was talking about getting the right spring and having the internal valving customized to your style. The former...yes, you can get that from here, and from a number of other great resources. The latter can only come from a suspension guru. And you don't just want to go to any Joe Schmoe suspension guy...you want someone with lots of experience and with a great reputation. (Dan Kyle, Dave Moss, Stig Peterson, etc)

[JerryF]

I did the paper work to have the shop i work at authorized to sell ohlins directly, in addition to our parts unlimited supplier.

 

While on the phone, ohlins told me that they ask questions about a rider to get the proper spring rate and a base setting for the rebound based on the weight and riding style. But that the valving is set for that model of shock based on what bike it goes on. So on the RT/ST they pull a bm 505/ 506 and put the apropriate spring on it. And that's it. The rep said that the end user adjustments on the shock have more than enough range to dampen the full range of springs available for that model shock and it's intended use on that particular bike.

 

Russell, No disrespect was intended by my earlier post. Just going by what ohlins told me.

 

But on the other hand i was talking to a sales rep and not a full on tech. So he could have been blowing smoke at me.

 

One thing is for sure. The shocks they sent me are amazing and work as advertized.

 

Jerry

[russell_bynum]

Russell, No disrespect was intended by my earlier post. Just going by what ohlins told me.

 

But on the other hand i was talking to a sales rep and not a full on tech. So he could have been blowing smoke at me.

 

No offense/disrespect taken.

 

And I've never bought Ohlins before, so I suppose they might be different. I just know that the other suspension bits I've bought have been customized. What I've been told is you can't just stick a new spring on the shock. I mean...you could but for it to work properly, the valving has to be customized to match the spring. For example...a heavier spring is going to be harder to compress and will rebound harder than a softer spring. That requires different debound damping and compression damping to match. And while you could (in some cases, if the springrate weren't that different than stock) make that adjustment with the external adjusters, you're eating into the available adjustment. And if the spring is vastly different, there isn't enough adjustment to compensate.

 

That was with the GP Suspension bits that we put in my CBR forks. I'm not sure about the Penske rear on that bike (I bought the shock used). The Works shocks that were on my RT were made-to-order to my specs. And when I sent them back for a rebuild, I requested a change to the damping that was not possible via the external adjusters (I wanted less high-speed compression damping) and they made the change.

 

I suppose it is posible that Ohlins have such a wide range of adjustment that it isn't necessary to change the internals to match a spring change. Or...maybe the internals are OK for a range of weights/springs before they have to be reworked.

 

I dunno. Like I said, I've only done the made-to-order route or working with suspension gurus (the guy who did my CBR's forks and setup the rear shock was Chaz Davies' suspension guy last year on the Celtic Racing team in AMA supersport and FX...."Guru" is an understatement.) and I've never bought Ohlins before, so I can't comment about them specifically.

[JerryF]

Hi Russell:

 

A better way to say what i meant:

 

When you look at the ohlins dealer book. The RT/ST uses ( if memory serves ) a prs 46 shock for the front. And there are many differing models within the prs 46 line. Depending on what bike it's set up for. So the RT/ST uses a prs 46 shock model # bm505. So the bm505 is valved for the bmw RT/ST. But it is sprung and the rebound set for the rider(s) weight and intended use.

 

Jerry

[russell_bynum]

OH, OK. Sounds like the same thing as what I'm used to, then.