1200 RT - '05, '06 or '07

[Dobe66]

Considering moving from my 1100RT to the 1200 but I can't seem to pin down any critical deciding factors between the years. A good used bike may be within budget (stretched) so I'm seeking advice from the forum members. Help!

[Lawman]

If I total my 05 tomorrow and am still able to ride I'll buy the best valued R1200RT I can find..The differences in them are insignificant to me..

[marcopolo]

The only "major" difference (aside from colours) is that in '07 they moved to the next generation brakes without servo assist.

[JR356]

Hi,

 

Brakes are fine either version,just make sure to try servo versus non servo.

Besides that,get one with as many "farkles" on it as possible.Good upgrades to look for are custom seats,accessory driving lights,GPS,exhaust upgrade.

 

As with any vehicle,low mileage and a complete service history are pluses.

Try to get one with a reasonable amount of factory warranty left.If it's getting close to running out of factory warranty,then consider an extended warranty(it will more than pay for itself if the FD goes out)

 

JR356

[tgrrdr]

A good used bike may be within budget.... Help!

 

I'm trying to buy a house and just sold my RT but if I was going to buy another one I'd fly to Arizona and get this one.

 

Heck, if you buy it and I can get cheap flights on Southwest I'll fly to Arizona and ride it to Seattle for you. (well, maybe we'd have to split the cost of gas, too.)

 

 

edit: I did email johnlt about his KLR but have never met him in person and will not benefit from anyone buying his bike (unless they want me to ride it home for them. )

[StuGotz]

+1 on the advice above...the 05 1200 RT listed is a great deal, the extras are mind boggling...and still time to get it before the weather gets you..

 

 

MB>

[BeemerLover]

Gavin, +1 to what has already been said.

 

I just bought an R1200RT after looking at 10 to 12 bikes. Here are some things I learned. These are just my opinions and may not be what others have experienced.

 

KBB value is what the dealer starts at. NADA is more in line with what is actually paid after negotiation. Up until about a month ago most bikes were priced above KBB. Now the prices are more in line with NADA, depending on mileage, farkles and condition. This is because the riding season is all but over and people are realizing that there is less interest. This is a good time to buy.

 

My gut feel is that you will pay about 25% to 30% of the farkle price above NADA. Same with major upgrades like the CD/radio, ESA, heated seats, etc. Cruise, heated grips are pretty standard.

 

I learned there are trollers out there and then people that were willing to sell. The trollers are hoping that someone will buy at their high price and are willing to keep the bike if nobody does. I watched these bikes being re-listed as they did not sell.

 

There are three "D's" of getting a great deal on most anything, Death, Debt and Divorce. In the case of a bike add having the first child and physically not being able to ride anymore. Always ask why the seller wants to sell.

 

As was noted, try to get as many farkles as you can. The large topcase is a good one as it retails for $780. An aftermarket seat is essential so if it has one, great!

 

The one I bought had 7,200 miles and I was very happy with that. The price was a little lower because 7,200 is high mileage for a bike that had been in service for 6 months ('07 model), it had the 600 and 6,000 mile service done which saves $$. Also, at that mileage the tires need to be replaced so mine had new tires ($400). I think 6,000 to 8,000 miles is a sweet spot.

 

Ask the seller if he has title. If he says the lender has it then ask if he will pay it off and get title. If he says he doesn't want to and he wants you to pay it off and give him the difference then think twice about buying the bike. It can be done with a power of attorney and instructions to the lienholder to send the title to you but there is a lot that can go wrong if you buy this way. You must know how the DMV in your area wants things done and may need the advice of an attorney.

 

I think the warranty is a necessity for these bikes because of the chance the final drive will go out. If you buy an '05 or '06 model get an extended warranty that will cost about $800.

 

All of the R12RT's are basically the same but with some differences.

 

There were two recalls on the '05 and there were some problems that updated software took care of. Call your dealer with the vin # to see if the recalls had been taken care of.

 

The colors were the same (I think) for '05 and '06. The colors are the same for '07 and '08.

 

The '05 and '06 models have servo brakes which are perfectly safe but are grabby. There is a chance you will lay the bike over in slow speed maneuvers if you grab the handle bar brakes suddenly. Less of a chance with the '07 and '08 models as there is no servo assist. But the brakes on these are just as safe. Also, it is harder to bleed the brakes of the servo bikes yourself than the non servo brakes.

 

That is all I can think of right now. Hope it helps,

 

Gael

[John in VA]

Considering moving from my 1100RT to the 1200 but I can't seem to pin down any critical deciding factors between the years.

 

I moved from an 1100RT to a 1200 last March and found a spotless used 06 with 1500 miles pretty cheap. There's a lot of luck involved in used bike shopping, but having cash money readily at hand can help. I love my 06 but if you can swing it look for an 07 with nonpower brakes (it'll brake more like your 1100). Also, don't buy any bike without factory warranty on it.

[BUSTED]

If you aren't in the market for a 2007 or newer, keep what you have.

[velomoto]

The '05 and '06 models have servo brakes which are perfectly safe but are grabby. There is a chance you will lay the bike over in slow speed maneuvers if you grab the handle bar brakes suddenly. Less of a chance with the '07 and '08 models as there is no servo assist. But the brakes on these are just as safe. Also, it is harder to bleed the brakes of the servo bikes yourself than the non servo brakes.

 

That is all I can think of right now. Hope it helps,

 

Gael

The early '06's had a "critical" recall due to something with the clutch. The dealer wouldn't let me take ownership of the bike until the recall service had been completed.

 

Regarding the servo assisted brakes of the '05/'06 - they're much less sensitive (grabby) than the servo assist brakes of the 1150RT's. IMO one quickly becomes used to how they feel. My only complaint is the whine from the electric servo assist motor when the brakes are applied.

[Bob_Mc]

As others have already responded, the servo brakes on the '05 and '06 models are the only differences. I bought my '05 early (produced in April '05), and I'm told that the factory was extra careful to make the initial production as flawless as possible. My dealer confirms this.

[OlGeezer]

Good upgrades to look for are custom seats,accessory driving lights,GPS,exhaust upgrade.

 

As with any vehicle,low mileage and a complete service history are pluses.

JR356

 

I wouldn't pick this order. Low(er) mileage would be a plus, complete service history would be mandatory.

 

Custom seats (and shocks), if properly selected, work for the P.O. only and would only be of value if the new buyer was the same size and rode the same as the P.O. For example, I doubt if many would want my seat. For one, it's hard as a rock. It's also got a lot of miles.